Warren

only if you call removing 2 screws "work"...

Try this place... Zedd Findings Floor Systems

Perhaps you mis-read, or I didn't clarify enough. The number will be on the OUTSIDE of the car. The license plate lamp has to be removed so you can see it. The code will be stamped into the OUTSIDE cylindrical casing of the lock, OUTSIDE the car...normally covered by the license plate light. Hope that clears that up...

10 to 1, the ignition lock has been changed out. If that's the case, the key code to the doors and hatch will be located on the hatch lock itself. Remove the rear interior panel, in front of the tail lights, find the 2 10mm bolts that hold the licence plate light on. Remove them. The license plate light assembly can now be removed, exposing the sides of the hatch lock. Look on the hatch lock for the key code, stamped into the side of the lock, it should be MXXXX where XXXX = 5000-6000. Have a key made to that number at your local locksmith shop. If that key fits and works in the doors, VIOLA!...if not, the key code should be stamped into the passenger door lock. It's alot more of a pain in the arse to remove the door locks, but it can be done. If the doors have been changed though, and the new hatch key doesn't work them, you're still gonna have to remove the locks. Take them to your local locksmith and I'm sure he can make a key for them by disassembling them and reading the wafers. DO NOT let a locksmith impression your locks with a key blank and a file. These 30 year old locks are way too fragile to make keys that way. Just some friendly advice from your local automotive locksmith. P.S. Up until 1982 or so, Nissan, then Datsun dealers were supposed to put the key code to the vehicle on a tag located inside the glove box, usually on the door. If you're lucky enough to find it there, that'll save you a bunch of wrenching.

Just a post here to keep my status as a current poster...thought it might be usefull to someone to put this link here, just to avoid a worthless post. Hope this comes in handy to someone. Click for Turbo Cutaway Warren

According to my local Nissan Dealer, who I have a GREAT working relationship with, it goes to a 6-83 and later 280ZX NON Turbo 2+2 with an Automatic Transmission. By the way, that number replaces or supercedes part #39600-P9700.. Hope it helps. Warren

Notice the lettering on the hood...PERFECT description..."Autobacs"... pronounced as AUTO BOX, as in CAR BOX. But really, do they have cattle running the streets around there? I mean, what's with the sheet of plywood for a front air dam???

Hey, he does go by the name "PYRO", right??? Couldn't resist. Warren

Ok Admin guys...you've had since April, and still no response or fix, unless I'm seriously missing something. What's up? http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=33058 It's getting old...like me. Warren

It won't be long now!

Kinda like this? (Photoshopped from an all orange car) I have an S130 like this, and if I do an S30, it'll look similar to this. Warren

By comparison, it seems a little low in the CFM department, for the same current draw, you might just look into this one: Flex-a-Lite Black Magic Fan http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FLX%2D150&view=1 Sure the cost is up there a little, but it's a complete kit, with the thermostatic control and AC relay and mounts. That may not be a direct answer to your question, but it's worth investigating. Alot of people I've talked to say that the one I linked works fine for them. I have one but it's not installed yet, then of course, neither is my engine...hehe Warren

I know what's going on with your car. You've pissed it off by painting the outside of a red car, BLUE!...it's just trying to get back at you.

You've been PM'd.

Well, my name is Warren and my last name starts with a D., and I did talk to someone named Bill about an R200 LSD a week or so ago. If I'm the one you're trying to get in touch with, here I am. The Email is Customlock@hotmail.com or Warren@321open.com or you can PM me here. Take a chance, it might be me... Warren

Wait, if it was aluminum, why would the title be: "Custom Intercooler & Turbo Piping Kit 2.25" 304 Stainless Steel" ? I just had to ask... Warren

Yep, it's getting ridiculous now...I've deleted everything, and uploaded a TINY 27k picture, even though the properties show it on this board as being only 5k... so I know it's not that the size of the pic is too big. Still NO RESPONSE or assistance from Site Admin, so I guess it's not worth worrying about...(to them)...

What is the trick to making the broken link symbol (X in Box) go away and display a picture in the User Gallery? I've tried everything I can think of including but not limited to deleting my gallery and re-uploading it. Other people's thumbnails show up, but mine stays a broken link. I've been trying to resolve this for a while, so I deleted the old post and redid it here. But STILL No Answer. What's up with that? Warren

Alot of people make their own from extrusion purchased from various suppliers. JSK Innovations used to make them, but has stopped and at last check, had few if any left in stock. The source that I procured mine from is a guy in Slidell, Louisiana. His name is Pete Allnet. He is a member here and goes by the screen name PALLNET. He makes them to order and has several configurations to order, (i.e., with or without a fuel pressure guage, barbed connectors or O-ring style, smooth or finned tubing...etc.) I've personally met Pete, been to his home and seen how and where he makes and tests the rails. I can personally vouch for the quality of his work and product. The rails are NOT mass produced and are made by hand. Each rail is tested individually once it's done. My suggestion is that you email Pete (PALLNET@Hotmail.com). Warren

WHAT? You only weigh 120 lbs? Man, I've got a thigh that weighs that much... Warren

My Apologies, though I don't remember the Email. Please re-Email me or PM me and we'll swap details. Thanks, Warren

ZX Windshields are glued in, there is NO grommet. Simply remove the metal trim, including the screwed in trim on the sides, and carefully remove as much adhesive as you can from outside. Then carefully, from the side, cut the adhesive from under the glass. Proper windshield removal tools help. If you plan on replacing the chrome or black metal trim, you'd better plan on getting the new plastic holders. They are available from Nissan...Part # 72825-P7900 (top) and 72826-P7100 (bottom). They have double stick tape on the back side and the body MUST be clean for them to adhere properly. It can be done, but DO NOT PRY ON THE GLASS. Remove or cut all adhesive first. Then lift the glass off of the car. (Get an assistant to help). Consult the FSM for proper installation and removal tips and procedures. Good luck. Warren

Just pull on it. Once you've removed the threaded ring, its just sitting in a hole. You've probably got a little corrosion holding it in place. It's just sitting in there now. The pics show from inside the housing (on the engine side) and from outside the housing with the sensor out. Hope it helps. Warren

Thanks for making me re-read the whole post above...I just logged in from the HOME page and it's working fine now. I had been logging in from the Log In link on the forums page. That's all it took...a little re-reading and doing it right. Thanks for the help. Warren

After having to clear cookies, delete temporary internet files and clear cache (or whatever), now I can't seem to maintain the logged in status. Before doing all that, which I had to do for another reason, I was able to remain logged in. Now I have to enter my password every time. This is getting really annoying...but I'll live with it till I or someone else figures out the fix. Just venting...not bitching. Warren