Warren

For those using a lexan throttle body spacer and a 240SX throttle body, the spacer is a good and easy place to put it, since it's right behind the throttle body and won't suffer from heat soak at all. You can seal it perfectly with an 0-ring. It might not give the most accurate reading because the air in the intake will be warmer based on the intake being hot, but most ecu's only use it as a reference anyway.

Perhaps the wavy looking idea in the front is that maybe there's supposed to be 4 more headlights up there, i.e. ralley style. It looks as if they might have been there at one time. Who knows? Warren

See Fig. 39: HERE... Warren

Sorry about that...what you need is a TIE ROD END BOOT. CLICK HERE They're special order through the stores, but you can find them at some other auto parts stores locally as well as summit racing. Hope this helps. Warren

AutoZone...they're called Rack & pinion Bellows......Part #UF2020, Cosmos Brand, $9.99

In one word....... NICE!

Info Sent

Go to your local Sears Store, most stores have them in stock but if not, get them to order Sears item #00965587000. Mfr. model #65587. Unfortunately, they'll be double sided keyways...meaning cuts on both sides of the key on an oddball keyway. A useable substitute for what you have, unless you're in love with the tubular keyway locks. CLICK HERE $16.99 for a pack of 3 locks keyed alike for the Sears Craftsman toolboxes. You can easily change them yourself. You can ask them to order you 2 sets with the same key code and then all will be keyed alike for less than $40. Cheaper than what I charge to rekey 6 of the little bastards. Warren BTW, I am a locksmith.

Ok folx, it's been 3 weeks since the last post. What's the latest on this adaptation?

The issue I had with the ES bushings wasn't the bolts, because the ES bushing kit doesn't come with bolts. The problem I had was that the sleeves that the bolts went through were the wrong size. Somehow, they had mismatched the sleeves, which were too large to fit inside the bushing itself. I ordered another set from Summit, they were right, and returned the older ones for a refund. No problem. Summit worked with me where ES wouldn't. They'll just return them as defects and get the credit. The issue I had with the bolts, Brad, was with the camber adjustment kit. For some reason, the bolts from the "front" adjusters were larger in diameter than the ones for the "rear" kits even though both kits were marked "with 14mm bolts". By the way, these kits are no longer available from Specialty Products and they, nor the manufacturer of that kit has enough parts left to even cobble together a kit. That got straightened out by simply modifying the stock bolt head to fit inside the adjuster slot and using it instead. Done deal. Sometimes, ya just gotta think "outside of the box"... Warren

Get 'er Dun!!! That way you can make it to SEZS6 on March 26th...no more time for lame excuses...hahahaha Warren

Ok, since mine was mentioned, I'll tell ya...I have the narrow band for the SDS mounted just ahead of the tranny mount and the wide band for the LM1 mounted just after the tranny mount. Both are at about the 9:00 position, i.e. parallel to the ground. You want to go no lower than the 9:00 position to keep any condensation off of them. Water on the sensor will not only throw off the signal voltages, it'll ruin the sensor. Try to install it at least 12-18 inches FROM the turbo, to keep the heat down. You could, if you wanted to, put it anywhere in the system, as long as it doesn't get too hot. Warren

Could be because ALL 83's came with the turbo type hood and "lined" taillights. Proof that you can't judge a book by it's cover.

Well, you could always use the black trim from an 83 model. Of course that wouldn't do anything for the size of the B pillar trim, but it would allow you to black out the stainless and still have it match. They do sell a blackout tape made for this purpose, but as far as the sizes of things, you're gonna be hard pressed to fabricate anything smaller that is still functional or works to make the lines flow smoother.

Perhaps you're missing the stainless trim ABOVE it as shown here, that ties it into the stainless trim on the outter edge of the T-Top and completes the line from that.

Well, I can't answer the question of longevity of these particular bushings, but from what I understand, they're supposed to last as long if not longer than the stock rubber/steel sleeved bushings. I guess only time will tell as I'm too far committed now to worry about it. I do know that when they do wear out, they'll be ALOT easier to replace than the stock ones, so just from a maintenance/replacement standpoint, the polyurethane ones win hands down. Besides that, they're a whole lot cheaper than stock ones. Warren

Installing them is not hard...removing the outter shell of the old bushing IS...however, YES, you MUST remove the outter shell of the old bushing. Once you have removed the inner sleeve, you can use a hacksaw, or pnuematic body saw to cut through the outter shell, being VERY VERY careful not to cut into the control arm itself. Once you have a groove cut all the way through the outter shell, the outter shell should easily come out using whatever you have to pry it out. There won't be any tension left on it keeping it in place, merely most likely some rust. Then just lightly hone out the control arm to remove the remaining rust. A MAJOR error that some people make during the installation of the new ES bushings is that they try to put one bushing half in, then put the sleeve in, then try to force the other bushing half in... IT WON'T WORK. The correct way to do it is to lube everything up with the grease they supply, then put the two bushing halves in, then slide the sleeve through them. If you don't, you will trap air between the bushing halves and no matter how hard you try, you can't get the bushing halves to meet in the middle. BTW, the instruction sheet that comes with the ES busings are GENERAL instructions, not all parts of what they say applies in all circumstances. Hope all of that helps ya. But YES, definitely remove the outter shell of the old bushing or the new ES stuff won't fit. I did my front ones last month and I'm doing the rear ones today, along with installing the rear camber and toe adjusters. Warren

I just need a set of axles for the 3.70 VISCOUS LSD and the s30 spindles. I've got the diff, but the knucklehead that I bought it from said it was a CLUTCH type...WRONG...now I can't get in touch with him, but that's ok. I'd actually rather have the VLSD. I'll really enjoy it once I get the axles and spindles. And YES, I know the axles can be purchased from almost any auto parts store, but the core prices are outrageous on those things. Warren

Mine as of today Warren

Refer to the FSM, EF&EC 61, 67 & 68 (82 model FSM that is). Timing is controlled by the ECU based on inputs from various sensors. Adjustment prodecure on EF&EC 68. Give me your email address and I'll send you the section if you need it. Warren

Having problems with my DSL, so I'm on SLOOOOOOOOOW dialup. Haven't received any PM's about blanks, but I can tell you now, that it is a waste of time. They're NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Nobody has any that I've been able to get hold of. If somebody does find some, please let me know. I'll code cut them for free for the person who turns me on to the supplier. Warren

Thanks Brad, I'll have to keep an eye out for one from a Ford Truck or something. I know they are made in a variety of styles and shapes. I'll let ya know when I find something that will fit. Just what I need, another "see if I can find..." project. Warren

I just checked, and I thought I had said "Not to Hijack this thread, but for you folks with ZX's who want EL guages,...etc..." and I was right...I DID!

Stickers don't have wires coming from them and a power inverter inline, OR light up and dim with the dimmer switch...these do. They are NOT stickers. I promise...they're the real thing. But at that price, I doubted them too, till I got them in and installed them. Watch the video...

Great idea, but for me it won't work...perhaps I can put one where the cassette player was... The turbo timer and boost controller now reside in a custom made metal tray that slides out just like the ashtray used to. (the steel piece around them has since been wrinkle painted black, it's an older pic) Warren