Warren

Here's the Mustang lights. NOT a quick & easy deal...so probably not what you're looking for, but I thought I'd post this because the pic is in my signature. (AH, convenient, gotta love it. heheh)

I was gonna question the need for the 175 when this thread was first posted, but figured you knew what you wanted. I do have to tell you that there isn't anything on a Z that you'll need the 175 for, as stated above, unless you're doing some serious axle work or something. I used my 135 for my entire project and never once had to turn it past half way to get not only GREAT penetration, but superb welds. I used .23 wire on the entire project and it came out nice. I did use the C25 mix for gas and never once had any problems. Just speaking from experience. The 135 will do whatever you need it to do and then some. Warren

Add Tip Gel and a good fire extinguisher to the list as well as a good 4.5" grinder...especially if you're just learning to weld.

Just for the record, and to keep things straight. SEZ operates on NO budget. We start with NO money and we end up with NO money. We don't keep any money from any event. All money collected goes to pay for the prizes that are awarded at the end of the day and the track rental if need be. The Organizers are all VOLUNTEERS, working all through the year to put on the event and make it what it is (and more to come in the future). If there is any money left over after paying for the raffle prizes, it is divided up and given back to the attendees in the form of "Cash" prizes for different things such as: Fastest Pass by Class, Most modified car, Organizers Pick for Best in show, etc. We keep NO money thats collected from the attendees and if we don't bring in the required amount of people to pay for the track rental, some of the money from the Tech passes and raffle tickets goes to make up the difference instead of being able to award it back to the attendees in the form of prizes. Just wanted to make these points so that everyone would know that the SEZ Shootout is a NOT FOR PROFIT event. Thanks, Warren

HAHAHHA, gotta love a decent sense of humor...

Does your screen not show a Posted Date/time in the blue bar above the message?

Might try BAD DOG Parts ... HERE

Like the title says, that's the question. Here's another idea. Instead of everybody contributing to build a car that's gonna be a controversial nightmare, as far as ownership, participation, cooperation, etc...why not everybody build their own cars with a goal? That goal being to "qualify" to fly the HybridZ decal on the rear window/s or something like that. Let's UP the standards of what is carrying the colors. Say for example, that an AutoX car has to complete 3-5 laps or sessions without major failure before it could wear the Hybrid Z logo. or Say for example, that a Drag car has to make 3-5 complete runs down the 1/4 mile (with time slips) without major failure before it could wear the Hybrid Z logo. or Say for example, a Road Race car has to complete 3-5 events without major failure before it could wear the Hybrid Z logo. Now for MY point of view on the subject. Seems there are alot of "gung ho" folks out there that want to be proud of something with the Hybrid Z logo on it. Why not make it your own car? I mean, aren't there enough UNfinished project cars sitting around in people's garages and workshops? Instead of sending each other a bunch of money or parts or whatnot, perhaps each of us should get together with our nearest Hybrid Z members and collaborate on finishing some of these cars sitting around. Two heads are better than one, in most cases, and I'm sure we could all use a helping hand from time to time. Just a couple of thoughts on (or around) the subject. Warren

Nuff Sed!

All the more reason to build something NICE and bring it to the SEZ Shootout. Of course, there won't be any TV crew and you're assured to be able to take your car home with you at the end of the day, unless somebody really DOES want to run for titles. It's almost guaranteed that you'll have just as much fun, if not more, and be around a great bunch of people. You've got about 6 weeks or so to build something...so there is your challenge. Now if you need more time, and you'd rather do it in March, that's ok too, since our tenative date for the March SEZ Shootout (#8) is March 26th, 2007. Look for a MAJOR announcement regarding that event to come soon.

I'm pretty sure that the 5 pin connector you're looking at there is part of the "Stereo Balance" joystick and will only be attached to the stock stereo unit, as it won't work for any other units. Not all stock stereos had that feature, some had a knob called "Stereo Wide". It should come out with the old stereo and not be used with the new one as it won't work with any others anyway. Some cars didn't have either and only had a plug cap in the hole on the right side of the ashtray.

EDIT: FSM Diagram removed by me, soas not to violate copyright laws and get myself banned for violation of posting rules.

CONGRATS!!! Nice to see "another" NICE Z back on the road!!! Kudo's Man!

Question is, is that shifter capable of "ratchet" shifting? Reason for asking is that I'm using a manual valve body and will be shifting every gear.

Well, maybe your lucky number is "8"... as in SEZS"8", March 2007? But you're gonna be missing a good one this time. Z-Gad and JnJ will just have to do the 8's this time. Sounds like fun on the hunts though. Those opportunities do usually come up only once in a lifetime. (and to think that some people thought the "Dr. Hunt" meant something else)

Doc, you packing yet?

Fire jacket on, roll cage in and pants pulled up this time !!! Sounds like a winning combination, no doubt.

Man, that thing is gonna be even more of a beast. Can't wait till SEZ 7 now, just to see it run.

That's because somebody went and got the FREE car. It's gone, so the author deleted the post. Ya snooze, ya lose, you know the drill...

WHOA...use the rearmost INTAKE manifold bolt to lift from the rear, as it's ALOT thicker and sturdier than the exhaust manifold bolt. If you can, use one of the top transmission mounting bolts instead, as it's ALOT safer that way. BTW, no bracket is necessary if you pass the bolt through the end link of the chain you're using, just make sure to use a cushion of plywood or thick towels between the manifolds or valve cover to avoid destroying either. If the bolt won't fit through the end link of the chain, you're not using a large enough chain to begin with.

NO reason to hot wire it. Remove the switch from the bottom side of the lock assembly, 2 phillips screws. Plug it back onto the harness and use a flatblade screwdriver to turn the switch itself. Once you get a new lock assembly, put the switch back on it before installing it on the column. Done. P.S. Find yourself another mechanic. If this clown has 2 Z's of his own, he should know that the transmission has NOTHING to do with the front wheels on a rear wheel drive car. It can't even affect the steering column in any way either, since the shifter is on the console.

He means the car was an 87 Buick Regal "T" type...

Just saw this on Craigslist and it might be of interest to someone here. Why? I don't know. CLICK Here is another ad for parts... CLICK

Mike, I'm not saying that the shifter will mount under the tunnel without having to enlarge it. I'm going to end up having to modify the tunnel slightly by installing a "bucket" or "recessed mounting box" to mount it low enough unless I do a custom console. Having a sheetmetal brake and a welder will make this an easy task for me, but it's gonna take a little modification of the tunnel to make it sit low enough for the way I want it. See, I don't want to use the big black plastic box around the shifter unit itself and want to mount the chromed top plate at the same level as the stock shift indicator plate. This might take a little creativity to get it to "just the right spot", but I'm willing to go that far to avoid it looking like it didn't originally come that way. The Camaro/Firebird version of the quicksilver (part #BMM-80688) actually uses an additional mounting plate, which would make it even taller than the standard one (part# BMM-80683) that I'm using, based on photos of the C/F one on Summit's site. The chrome top plate for that one is the wrong shape anyway. Doing a little research and comparing the parts online, I've noticed that the Quicksilver and the Pro-Ratchet shifter (part# BMM-80842) use the same actual shift handle lever (part# BMM-80586), so although the Pro-Ratchet shifter comes with the little aluminum box mounted around it, it would still be the same height if the tranny tunnel wasn't modified somehow. About the knob, the Quicksilver comes standard with a chromed (plastic) ball knob with a "Quick Silver" logo insert. The shifter itself, in it's shipped form, doesn't come with any adapters to allow the "stock GM knobs" to be used, but I've seen the adapters all over the place should the threads be wrong. I have a line lock installed on my car and have the white ball knob with the red button on top (part# BMM-46112) installed on my shifter, which works well for me because my car is white too. B&M does make an aluminum knob for the shifters, so if polished SS can't be found, the aluminum one can surely be polished, easily. Sorry to babble.

Just for reference, the TCI Full Manual Valve Body (reverse pattern), part #386010, is available from Summit for about $50 cheaper than from Jegs. For some reason, when Jegs & TCI both raised their price, about 2 months ago, Summit did not. I do know that the part was on Back Order when the prices changed elsewhere, so perhaps Summit will raise the price also when their current supply is exhausted and they have to order more. I'm in the process of putting a 200-4R from a "built" 87 Regal T-Type, in my 82 ZX, behind the L28ET stroker. Final prototype of the bellhousing adapter was run last night. I'll be doing final fitting some time next week. Soon as it all fits and the car is running, additional adapters will be run and made available for sale. I'm also using the B&M Quicksilver ratchet shifter and mounting it low as Scottie just stated, as if you don't mount it low, meaning below the stock height, the shift knob will be WAY too high to look right. For Mike: I'm using the Quicksilver shifter for the reasons you mentioned earlier...i.e. lighted shift indicator and positive shifting, and because it can be mounted IN the console, without the huge box or housing that the full ratchet shifters have. The Quicksilver will do both full ratchet (N to 1) and normal (N to D only) shifting. Pics will be coming soon. P.S. I didn't mean to hi-jack the thread, but thought mentioning the price savings would help someone.