misterZ

The guy called today with a $368. quote so I passed and bought a new one for $252. shipped (FREE) here: http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/driveshaft.php

I'll wait for the quote and make sure it includes balancing b/c I'd like to have it balanced @ 3000 rpm--is there a standard and what is a reasonable price to expect for the finished product?

Well the shop I took it to today said it's not rebuildable due to the 'locked' (slotted caps) u-joints(?). This is a very reputable and highly recommended machine shop that builds driveshafts all day long so it may be more of an 'integrity' issue that he feels he doesn't want to attempt or be responsible for the results and prefers to build from scratch (and put more $$ in his pocket ); he took measurements and will quote me a new (custom built) DS tomorrow. Aside from all that, he knew about the MSA rebuilds but said they just replace the ends and pitch the old ones... w/e (didn't quite follow what he was saying). When I mentioned I considered MSA's aluminum DS, he said not for a DD, it won't last and proceeded to show me a pile (mountain) of old busted driveshafts and a lot (the worst) were aluminum. He said they're made for track use and serious racers (NASCAR) replace them after every race or ~500 mi... scared me away (reminded me of the solid diff mount thread on here somewhere in [Drivetrains] )!

I dropped the driveshaft to replace the tail seal on my `77 when I noticed the u-joints bind on both ends; FSM says these are 'throw-away' driveshafts yet MSA and others offer rebuilds w/ replaceable u-joints. I was going to take it to a local machine shop to see if it can be rebuilt w/ new (replaceable) u-joints but am I wasting my time? Thanks in advance,

You assume too much as I took your suggestion and did that exact search w/ the same results last night and only validated what I had presumed to be the distance (in millimeters--`cause it was the most logical) IN (negative) or OUT (positive, street side) from the centerline of the wheel; however, the Google links didn't help with the answer I was looking for graciously provided by deja (RTz contributing). Maybe I didn't get far enough down in the weeds...

7"

I did and it still doesn't answer my question. Thanks anyway. Exactly what I was looking for thanks Dale!

Do you mean they may fit with spacers? I don't understand the offset concept; what unit of measure is the +38 and (out on a limb) I presume it's measured from the centerline of the wheel--hence the -/+?

Looking at buying a set of these for my 280Z (lowered 1") but not sure if they fit with the 38 offset. Anyone have an opinion or experience with this specific model and if they fit w/o modification/spacers? Thanks in advance...

WICKED!!! Looks like you were top dog that day w/ some really smooth runs. How long was it untill the Cheshire grin wore off? 20 pounds of boost, wow! Dang, I wish we would have been there. Congratulations again on the 11 sec run!

With riverz's help we cleaned all the electrical connectors and replaced the injectors/fuel rail but noticed there is a distinct difference in the head--no notch for the injector spray. We bolted up the EFI to the E88 head but could only get the car to run by priming the intake. Turns out we have an L26 block, E88 head w/ EFI(?). I have a set of SUs we're going to try after I get them rebuilt and hope that solves our problem. I presume the L26 was never designed for EFI and probably the reason the seller got rid of the car since he couldn't get it to run.

They must have edited the ad as it states: "I have for sale a one of a kind 1974 datsun 260Z with a small block chevy 350 4 bolt main and TH400 trans..." As far as creativity, I think the owner watched too many Mad Max movies; although, the Pantera-style hatch is kinda cool, the wing and Trans-Am style rear is fugly. I think if I was to do a rollbar it would at least be functional and meet SCCA rules/specs--what are those on the rear strut towers, anti-roll/sway brackets?

Probably a typo and left a zero off...

Yup, free shipping on orders over $99.99 I see those on eBay all the time and want to say for $179. but they may charge for S/H. Not sure about the quality of the product/fitment ( no reviews) but you get what you pay for. I learned that valuable lesson the hard way and would stick w/ a reputable business like MSA or BlackDragon but understand your financial situation. Good luck!

My Speedometer works intermitently--when it stops working, the [Check Engine] light comes on but if I rap the top of the dash it starts working again and the light goes out. Best I can determine from other (Nissan Forum) posts read, suspect is the speed sensor mounted on the engine/trans that sends a digital signal to the speedo. The local dealer told me I have a speedo cable that might be loose or going bad(?). Anyone know if my particular model/year has a mechanical or electrical speedometer? My son is about to get his license and this will be his DD while we work on his Fairlady but need to fix this problem first so any help would be greatly appreiciated! Thanks in advance,

Hey John, Since you piqued my interest, I'll bite, why? I've never used the product but have considered trying it... also, what about Marvel's Mystery Oil? I hear a lot of folks swear by it adding it to oil and gas(?). Thanks,

The 'fin' rear bumper valance needs to go; looks better without it (IMO).