misterZ

Jaun, One of my very first mods and simple you can do yourself for nothing if you have some spare wire and connectors: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Works like a champ!

"After eight years and more than 540,000 units, the original Z-car came to an end in late 1978." A couple sources: http://www.zcarz.us/DeepDatsun240Z-260Z-280ZHistory.htm http://www.topspeed.com/cars/nissan/1970-1978-nissan-z-cars-first-series-240z-260z-and-280z-ar36401.html

Exact same senario here w/ my son and no, it's not any cheaper waiting the extra year. =/

I'm getting up there in age but still young at heart and met a couple stand-up (younger) Z owners in my area with the same interests and certain that they'd drop what they're doing to come help me and vice versa. I owe it to this site for 'introducing' me to some great people! We go to salvage with the mindset do it now and beg for forgiveness later since you never know what you might find! Oh, and I was also introduced to the 'while I'm at it syndrome' that sometimes gets me in trouble spending-wise. It's a Z thing you know...

If all else fails, I have an extra set I'd part with. One functioning, the other will need new seals as it leaks when I flowed gas thru them. Complete with linkage and manifold(s).

You do realize you don't have to insure a permitted driver in FL... he should already be covered under your (FL) policy for as long as he's driving on his permit at no additional cost. Only after he gets he license do you have to add him to your policy. I have State Farm and it will be ~$1600./yr to insure/add my son once he gets his license. Check around, if you're paying now (while he is on a learner's permit), you're getting ripped off!

You can buy new from AZ, O'Reiley's, etc for about $40.

Sorry (at work & can't edit), I see you already replaced the radiator.

Not sure if you checked the fan clutch yet (I thought for sure that is your problem) but after seeing your post on the radiator, you might consider pulling it and take it to a radiator shop to get rodded or just replace it (if you have the funds). =/

I'm thinking the 240mm (you could measure it if it's still out of the car). I have a `77 that I'm dropping in a Borg-Warner (5-speed) from an `83 ZX Turbo and know they are the larger 240mm. Regardless, I'd opt for the 240mm anyways as it will still work in your car and provide better holding power over the 225mm.

I think Mikez31ss was referring to the fan clutch. The fan blade should be (tight) difficult to spin when the engine is cold and spins more freely at operating temp; If you can spin the fan blade when the engine is cold the clutch needs replaced--commonly overlooked as suspect to overheating problems.

Tragically, the oil with reach our sugar-white pristine beaches as early as tomorrow in Panama City Beach, FL. Pensacola Beach has already been closed. =/

Uh, the 260Z block is not provisioned for EFI, i.e., the cressant-shaped notches in the block for the injectors to spray into cylinders are not there; it won't run `cause the injectors spray on the block above the ports and the fuel 'drips' down into the hole. You would have to file the holes to make the (cressant) notches for the injector spray if you're adamant about keeping your L26 in the car. I heard from an Aussie that did this...

Here's 'The History Channel' link to their community forum with pics of the car: http://community.history.com/topic/7778/t/1980-Datsun-280ZX-10th-Anniversary-Edition.html?page=-1 Comment/review from a Vegas Blog: "The next guy brought in a 1980 Datsun 280ZX. It sounds kind of rough, like a missing cylinder. The guy wanted $28,000 but Rick wanted to give $4000 firm. So, it sold pending a mechanic looking over the car. The house mechanic decided it was not worth it so because of so many problems, so there was no sale." I don't feel so bad now for what I paid for my clean Z.

I searched this weekend as I heard this file was out there but never came across it. I looked at a lot of Google images and read a lot of forums where folks suggested it was a matter of preference where to place them. I spent the better part of my afternoon 'siting' my mirrors until I was satisfied; then it took a couple more hours to drum up the courage to drill my holes. Although they may not be 'factory' correct, I'm happy with the way they turned out. In relation to the diagram Nigel posted, my (SAE) measurements were: A/C = 7.75 in and B/D = 10.0 in (symetrical) for the mounting stud. Btw--if anyone is interested, I found the mirrors on eBay for $108./pr + $20. S/H (fm JP) but there are only 3 sets left as of yeesterday--when they're gone they're gone.

Nice write up! I'm kind of partial to my stock (NA) engine (135K original mi) and leaning towards installing a turbo (not a complete engine swap). My current 'to do' is to install my Pallnet (barbed) rail, (A)FPR and Mallory external EFI fuel pump, 211 LPH @ 60 PSI (purchased from BRAAP). Granted, the rail is barbed so I presume my options are limited(?) on injectors; I intended to look for and install stock 333 injectors from a Z31 (or Z32?). My ultimate goal is ~250rwhp when all is said and done. Regarding this initial fuel delivery upgrade, will the stock ECU handle/pick up the change? I do intend to go with an aftermarket EMS eventually, likely MS, but I'm taking baby steps to get there. On the turbo: would I be better off finding a donor L28ET that I can swap just the turbo parts to my engine or (since I'd rather be patient) keep looking for deals on just the parts I need whether they be new or used? Also, is an I/C a necessity to get this turbo upgrade on the road or can it come after (I do intend to install one but trying to keep initial costs down)? I realize I have a lot more reading to do but as I said, I'm partial to my motor so I'm not really keen on changing it out, I just want a turbo charger for more HP. =/

I need the side rubber shock-absorbing mounts for the early 260Z rear bumper--I can get by w/ one if you have it as one is OK (driver) on mine but a tear has started and afraid it will also need replaced.

Awesome, thanks!

After searching the forums I have not been able to find the answer I'm looking for so opted to revive this old thread in hopes for an answer. I bought a set of 3-screw SUs (round tops) to convert my 280Z but decided against and will install them on my son's l26 in his Fairlady after they're rebuilt. O'Reily's has the rebuild kits but I need to know if my carbs are 240Z or 260Z carbs... how do I tell? If it helps, they appear to be the same ones posted above in COmputoman's post (pic). Thanks,

For the non-fab guys & gals: I wanted to share this kit I bought off FleaBay in case anyone was interested (not a plug and I don't know the seller). I installed it today and it looks great! Comes with mounting bracket and useless (to me) colored hose, clamps and extra fittings--simply mount it, run your hoses and done--I'm happy with it! Pictured is everything that comes in the kit. Just about the only location I could find where it's unobstructed and non-intrusive. As you can see it's quality work with a sight tube and brass drain plug in the bottom corner of the can. If interested, search eBay for 'Universal Catch Can' and you'll find it. I paid starting bid - $9.99 + $22.99 S/H (steep... but it does have a little weight to it ).

^^ but thanks for the offer!