misterZ

Looks better in person; don't go by the first picture as the markers are untouched. It was an after thought to put a light coat of paint on them (subsequent pictures) as I thought they looked 'out of place' with the turn signals darker and markers left alone.

They all still reflect; no worries there.

I have a `77 do these help?

Thanks! The hood is high quality CF vinyl (heat gun) shrink wrapped (Birthday present last year ).

I bought a can of VHT black out paint (Fleabay) and did the front turn signals (one coat); I plan to install my 240Z valance (w/turn signal deletes) and BRE spoiler next (all black front end). I considered doing a light coat on the marker lights too but kinda on the fence about that. [EDIT:] Decided to go with one light coat on the side markers and two coats on the turn signals buffed w/ Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 (fine scratch/blemish remover). The sun was 'long' and the fact I was shooting into it doesn't do the finished product justice. ~**Pay no attention to the rust!**~ I also reversed the direction of the lens:

ADMINS: Not sure if it would help anyone but consider moving thread to 'Troubleshooting'? Thanks,

I appreciate you guys sending the part (EFI relay) I thought I needed but that was not it. Turns out, I have a bad (second) oil pressure switch that was 'rigged' to turn the pump on/off based on oil pressure. Meaning, as long as the car has oil pressure it will run; kind of a safety feature the PO installed but think it was to bypass a bad harness(?) or signal to the AFM when the key is in the 'on' position. Here is the switch I need if anyone can identify it; appears to be domestic if memory serves me correct from working at the parts store in my younger days: It is wired one side to the brake switch (constant 12v) and the other to the EFI relay. I can jumper the wires and the pump runs constant; the oil pressure switch is the make/break for this circuit and installed on a tee connector in-line w/ the factory switch for the gauge. Anyone else heard of such a thing? Regardless, I need to find an oil switch like this to resolve my issue as I suspect it's definitely bad. EDIT: Found it! `85 Cavalier 6cyl oil pressure switch.

There was a nice write-up to delete your ext regulator by installing an alternator from a ZX. I want to say it was from AtlanticZ but here is a link that essentially explains the same process. When I get home, I think I saved the link w/ schematic to convert to the ZX alternator but you have to install/splice a couple 'loop' wires to (I think) bypass the ext reg connections: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html It was the first mod I did on my `77 and works like a champ! No bouncing voltage needle or dimming lights. EDIT: Use this link, follow the steps; however, I believe MSA sells the loop plug you need for the the 240Z: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

PM riverz; I think he has one he'll sell.

If you don't have emissions testing in your state, delete it/don't need it. I also deleted my CAT (straight exhaust to ANSA tips).

Did you check MSA? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SFC01B

Wow, really? What year is your Z? I was going to pipe in as I have similar issues and suspecting the Fuel Injection Relay (75-77 only) that sends the pump signal thru the AFM. I replaced three AFMs and the ignition switch to no avail; however, the best troubleshooting tool for fuel issues is installing a gauge between the filter and rail (as above). I found I was getting fuel w/ key in 'start' but not w/ key in 'on' position. Subsequently, the engine will start and run only long enough to exhaust the fuel in the rail. If I have someone start the vehicle and hold the key in the 'start' position while I disconnect the wire to the starter, pressure stays up (pump on) and car will run until key returned to 'on' position (pump dies). What a friggin' gremlin this is... but another member is shipping me a relay for troubleshoot/replacement so we'll see if my suspicions are correct. EDIT: (added) I got my gauge for ~$25. (here or on Ebay) and bought the tee from Home Depot for $1.80 and (2) 1/8" nipple barbed pipes from O'Reiley's (another ~$5.)--gauge is permanently installed in-line.

PM sent. EDIT: Paypal sent, thanks!

Looking for a known good fuel injection relay found on driver's side under dash (left side above ECU). I suspect one side is bad on mine and need one for troubleshoot/replacement. Please send PM w/ price shipped to 32405 (NW Florida panhandle). Thanks,

I wanted to share my progress on the 240Z valance turn signal delete I'm doing for my 280; I FG'd in the holes to retain my stock turn signals and mount a BRE spoiler I had. (Taken w/phone so poor quality) The end on the left has final spot glaze and primer; the end on the right is finished in semi-flat (satin) black (picture does no justice). I still have to prep the center piece and spoiler but when all is finished, I'll have about $200. invested in a 240Z BRE style front end for my 280.

305 ftw!

My speedo was going out intermittently (a smart rap on the dash brings it back) so I bought a donor cluster out of a junked 95 Maxima. I replaced the (guts) speedo motor and circuit board on my Hardbody to get it ready for my son to DD; however, when I energized the motor to set it to zero and put the needle on, it's ~5-6 mph low (to the bad). The quick fix was to drive up and down the street and calibrate it against a police radar (digital) speed sign (moving the position of the needle trial & error). At rest, the needle is now on ~11 mph but under way is spot on 30 mph @ 30 mph. With ignition off it falls to zero (pinned). Does anyone (experienced) have any suggestions or do you think the problem is the fact the motor and board are out of a car versus another truck? I can guess all day long but hope someone here actually knows why and how to resolve as this will be my son's first vehicle on a fresh FL license. =/ Thanks in advance!

Correct; just did this swap this past weekend. The 240Z rack bushings are tight and will have a considerable 'gap' before you cinch everything down and they get squeezed closed. I also took the 'muffler clamp' stop thingy off.

Anyone got an old set of 1/4 window louvers (in decent shape) for the S30 they want to get rid of?

Beautiful job Gabe, thanks for sharing! I'm sure I'll eventually go this route, do you take appointments?

Just happened to see this before it goes by way of the tool shed. Really? Try Google or eBay "JDM Fender Mirrors" for starters; I bought mine off eBay and quite happy with them.

Here you go: 2000 Corolla. History report looks good. 3 owners, 0 accidents, been registered in MN. You can PP me the money.... j/k

...or if you know someone or friend that knows a dealer (salesman) they have unlimited access to Carfax. I think its overrated to pay myself and last I checked it's $35. for one report or $45. for up to 5 reports (different vehicles). Also, if the car was never taken to a dealer/repair shop that scans the VIN you get a 'clean' report that typically just shows how many times the vehicle was registered (sold)--nothing in the way of previously being wrecked/damaged. My two cents...

I think modern is right: "Looks like he has added the 73 wiring to the write up. (White w/ Red stripe to White w/ Black stripe, Solid White to Solid Yellow) Please look at the write up to clairify. This is what I got from the diagrams and pictures." It should work for all S30s(?)