misterZ

Not positive but everything I read today indicates this is a common occurance in (high mileage) GM & Ford motors related to the hydraulic valvetrain--not enough oil getting to the lifters at start up when the engine is cold. Here is what I captured off the Trailvoy.com forum regarding my engine: "What happens is that any lifter that is being 'compressed' by a lobe on the camshaft will tend to 'leak' some of its oil over time. So you turn off the engine with a valve or two being pushed into the open position. Upon startup, it takes a few seconds for the lifter to fully 'prime' back up with oil and you get a faint ticking sound due to the lifter not being full height until this occurs. Provided it isn't the heavy sound of a collapsed lifter and the noise goes away after a few seconds, this shouldn't be a problem." "I talked to one of the outside sales reps from gopher engines in minnesota he said there is a bulletin from the automive engine rebuilders association about there being and o-ring on the oil pump and it causes the oil to drain back causing the lifters to not pump up completely right away." So possibly my oil pump is leaking? My noise is not that subtle and quite annoying until the engine is warm. I also read that synthectic oils sometimes resolves the problem or at least quiets the motor--I've been using conventional oil but will switch next oil change. Thanks!

Help! My `04 GMC Sierra 1500 all of a sudden developed a valve/lifter ticking noise last night when I started it up to run an errand. After driven 4-5 miles the noise subsides and all seems quiet. It happened again this morning on my way to work. I change the oil regularly, the dipstick reads full and I have good oil pressure (~38psi) before and after it's making the sound. My concern is I've never experienced this in the past and the engine is typically very quiet until now. I'm due soon for an oil change (15% usage left) but heard I might try to add Marvel oil and also check to be sure it's not an exhaust/head leak(?)--pushing 180K miles. Thanks in advance, EDIT: CORRECTION 5.3L motor

Absolutely, a superior product and must have for the Z (IMO); these vents will soon become a 'household' name and ranks up there with the tried & true MSA BRE products. I personnally like the choice of mesh inserts and they disapate heat very well! (...now, where's my endorsement check?) Yes, please let us know as soon as the CF become available.

The mesh inserts can easily be changed as they're made from a heavy guage (~1/8") stock (aluminum, SS, etc)--fitted by a slot on one end of the (underside) vent and held in place by four screws (corners).

PM sent. :mparty:

Yes, it's spring-loaded; push in applying even pressure and twist off.

I will soon be doing an SU carb swap on my stock L6 (NA) `77 280Z and installing new PaceSetter 3-2-1 headers at the same time. I obtained a complete 2" exhaust pipe (w/o CAT) from another member with the intent to chop off the muffler and replace with an ANSA dual-tip resonator that has 1.75" inlet. My delimma is I'm removing a perfectly good 2.5" (possibly 3"?) exhaust system w/CAT and would like to know if I'm going to choke my engine and/or have any potential power loss/issues if I go with this new setup. I'm a little bull-headed and adament about using the ANSA tips just for the sound and nostalgic look but a little concerned about the reduction to 1.75" at the muffler. Thoughts?

Yeah, they worked for me also but I still think these vents look better, more aggressive and I'm willing to bet they vent heat better too. I'm very pleased with mine and get a lot of compliments. Different tastes I guess...

How's progress? Any estimate on when they'll become available again?

omg... I feel stupid; I buy/sell all the time and didn't think to look that up (first). As someone once said on this forum, no one will miss them when they're gone.

heheh... At least I'm not alone, nuff said.

The application guide calls for a 194 bulb but I don't think that is correct; the instrument bulbs look like a minature 1156 (if I remember correctly) and I believe the 194 is a blade type. If you don't find them, I'll check @ home tonight but if you're looking for brightness, I removed the green plastic bulb covers from my gauges and it made a considerable difference; however, I also have white faces so I'm not sure how much of an improvement you see w/ black.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149348&page=2&highlight=KeyCompositesGroup http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1051109#post1051109 Should give you an idea.

Flattering pictures considering the part doesn't come close on fitment; yes, I got 'stuck' with one of these poorly designed spoilers as they (KCG) apparently do not honor returns--if I was a fabricater, I'd use it for a mold after refining the design to fit the S30 and make a killing. Don't waste your money, there are better products out there that don't require extensive modifcation to make the part fit. I wouldn't trust any of their parts to be honest since they don't use/have any Zs to test their products--nor can they provide any testimonials of satisfied customers or pictures of their products installed on customer vehicles. I voluteered to be the first (on here) to try their product and provide pictures but it didn't fit and they won't take it back.

Did that and it wasn't firing; removed connector again and cleaned thoroughly with points file and WD-40--compressed (can) air dried it and put dielectric grease on before connecting. Fired right up and purrs like a kitten (again). Sometimes it just helps to think out loud and bounce things off riverz.

Here's the scenario: I was working on the car late one day and left the hood open overnight during a torrential rain so everything got soaked. The car started next day but ran very rough, spitting and sputtering. After some troubleshooting and drying things out, I replaced the cap/rotor, plugs and wireset with no change in running condition. Through process of elimination, I determined the #4 cylinder is not running as I can unplug the plug wire while the engine is running w/ no change (all others change pitch/running condition to worse). The last thing for me to check is the injector connector; all of them have cracked/split boots on the harness but prior to this happening the car ran perfect and strong. Is this the most logical cause of the problem? I've never messed with the injectors or wiring. [Edit:] Cleaned the connectors (a little corrosion), it's getting fuel--plug was wet and no sign of ever sparking (looks new out of the box but wet) so switched with the next cylinder and still have the same problem but now have narrowed it down to no spark at the #4 plug (same test as above). Going out for a stethoscope so I can hear things but sure all the injectors are firing. Plug wires are brand new and make good contact but haven't checked their resistance. Thanks in advance,