misterZ

Mission accomplished, thanks all!

PM replied!

I'm in search of an original mechanical fuel pump in good working condition, please send PM, thanks!

I don't believe they are detachable, I have a Fairlady and it's welded in.

^ there you go... I have two but not willing to part with for obvious reasons. Just watch for junk 260s on CL or the E88 head out of a 260 on Ebay; you'll find one some day, good luck!

If you change your mind about the 2+2 model, my son has a `78 FairladyZ 2+2 (first JDM year of the S130) he'd probably let go. We're in FL.

Mine adjust ~120 degrees, JDM, well made ~medium grade w/ matte finish (~$125. shipped) wish I bought 2 sets (MD):

NW Florida (Panhandle) http://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/2644453412.html

Whew, that's an expensive kit! The body is actually pretty nice considering it's FG. It's the under-carriage and cowl area that are bad; the car sat for several years and up until this year he had it out there with a $5800. price tag. I guess $2K is the 'sale' price but considering the body kit is all intact, it may be a fair price if you were in the market and wanted to 'skin this cat'. I forgot to mention it does not run but all the interior is in relatively nice shape!

The cowl is ate up and rusted thru; I didn't look the car over very good as I was more interested in the body kit. I really don't have the funds, time or place to part it out but if anyone is interested in the car, I can give you the owner's number. He wants it gone so I'm sure he'd come off that price some.

Front or rear?

I thought I'd share this local find with some of you `ol timers. The guy bought it off Ebay 10 years ago but no longer can take care of the car due to health and wants to sell it. It was originally a California car and I considered buying it to part out but he's asking $2000. to start OBO. Anyone know of this FG Ferarri Daytona kit? Hood, valance, fenders and rear panel, door handles have been relocated to top corner with a push and twist type chrome handle (driver's side is missing). Is it worth anything or still made? I especially like the 15" spoke wheels with spinners.

^^ that sounds like a lot of work. I opted out as well since you can wire to the stock relays... or what dexter72 said: "Look up MS Posts by Cygnus. He did a nice self made relay board with pics." I also see it as added trouble points with extra cable connections and like to keep things simple.

Didn't think of it when I purchased my MS1 yesterday; I'll have to check if the newer v3.0* PCB supports. Btw--did anyone build there own kit or did you purchase assembled? Just trying to gauge what I got myself into time-wise to solder the board up. Thanks,

Ok, poor choice of 'word' as I had the 2 dr version and it was also 25 yrs ago, I'm old, give me a break; I know what I drove and vaguely recall the body style being very similar--that's all.

Glad you stayed away from the first `77; JDM? come on... the flares appeared to be bolted on over the fenders (peaking out) instead of cut, looks silly. Those fender mirrors are just way too funny... mounted wrong and defeats the original purpose of them (anyone that has driven in Japan knows what I'm talking about). This last find has great potential and I'm certain you could talk down to $2800. (maybe lower); makes me sick to see these prices considering what I paid for my clean CA car. Good luck and take your time but I'd say this one is a potential keeper. Btw, I agree on those wheels being from the `78 Black Pearl. Also, anyone else notice the blackout turn signals and markers like I just did to my car? ...and I thought I had something there. Pfft

Same body as the Nissan Cedric I had in Japan back in the late `80s. I wish I still had that car; top-of-the-line luxury version w/ all the bells and whistles. My wife drove it while I drove a `76 FairladyZ 2+2. The kicker? I paid ~$600. for the Cedric and $250. for the Z (little to no rust on either). Back then brokers were shipping Z-cars for $800. to the states but I had to come home short-notice on (Red Cross) emergency leave and didn't return (signed both cars and POA over to a buddy of mine to supervise/ship my household goods back). :* |

Exactly the point I was trying to make `cept I have an average torso but short legs... ha (prolly why jhm can wear a helmet).

I have (~2001-2005) Honda S2000 seats installed by the PO; I was not aware of the 'hump' issue and don't beleive it affected the installation. They are a bit tight and rub on the side pillars (primarily due to the shoulder harness clip) when the seats are reclined or slid all the way back. Like [jhm], the stock 280Z rails were retro-fitted by welding flat-stock cross bars; however, I lost ~1 1/2" of headroom so anyone over 6' would not be comfortable. In fact, if I were to do any track time, I don't think I'd fit with a helmet on and I'm 5'10". On the plus side, they're quite comfortable and have excellent lateral support; the added height gives me a much better field of view and I don't feel like my ass is dragging on the ground (car is lowered). I will post pics of the modified rails next time I take them out (soon) as I'm doing some work on the car this week.

Yeah not a very good pattern, has cheap all over it; you get what you pay for.

Bad ass! I've always been a fan of the Celi (silly) car; I have a `91 GTX I'm looking to swap in an All-Trac driveline and turbo some day.

Unfortunate, but I'll be watching this thread since I have the same problem trying to get mine out to install my white-faces on the tach and speedo. Doh!

I had similar problems and had to replace an oil switch and faulty fuel pump. 1. Check oil (fluid) level/ensure you've got sufficient oil pressure--if not, you may need a new sending unit (fairly cheap). 2. These next steps are easier if you install a fuel pressure gauge in-line between the fuel filter and fuel rail: A. Unplug the single wire (~14 ga) to the starter, turn key to 'start' position and listen for fuel pump to come on; check gauge for fuel pressure (~32-36 psi) B. Connect starter circuit (plug the wire back in) and try to start the car; should see (same) fuel pressure on gauge C. If engine starts but runs rough and or dies, try cleaning the AFM (especially air temp sensor) and electrical connection(s), i.e., AFM connector and all injector connectors--may even want to unplug/reconnect ECU connector. (New injectors--old/dirty AFM?) 3. Still having problems? Try cleaning the fuse-link terminals (when I did this, one broke off in my hand due to corrosion and had to replace a link), check continuity across them w /Ohm meter. These are a few simple things I did to resolve my issues. Although my stock fuel pump was working (by sound, fuel pressure), a lot of my gremlins disappeared when I installed an aftermarket Mallory racing pump.

Not the year you're really looking for but this sick Z32 is for sale; I personally know the owner and speed shop that tuned it. Wicked (fast) street legal track car! http://smithmotorworks.com/item--1990-300ZX-Twin-Turbo-Modified--Ryan300zx.html

I like the exhaust but not too fond of the nose; only reason is I'd like the grill 2x taller to allow more (spoiler-forced air) cooling to the radiator--looks to be robbed. The intake is a nice touch that sets it off but would drop the chin and add a spoiler.