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Oblithian

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Everything posted by Oblithian

  1. Oblithian
    Did you find an answer for this? I have found a lot of vague rederences to doing it but no complete write up. (As an aside, different manufacturers have different variations in their product specifications).
  2. Oblithian
    True there are fewer and very expensive DI options (Bosch and Motec I believe have some ECUs) there are also some drawbacks to the design in general. I suppose I should modify my question to a matter of in-head injector ports rather than manifold ports (for example, a VVT Ecotec head) just to simply the manifold, and make it easier for custom fabrication. As said, it is already done, I was curious if there is any particular reason behined the selection (in that respect) or if it was just because, of the huge Honda aftermarket. Regardless, it looks great so far. I was trying to consider ways that might keep costs down on a custom head, being able to install an existing (or slightly modified) camshaft or manifold design would be significant. Again, it is almost certainly too late for that now.
  3. Oblithian
    Given that you need custom manifolds it seems unusual that you would opt for a tower with MPI rather than DI. Either way, I am certain a few hundred people would be interested in buying this, myself included.
  4. Oblithian
    Interesting, so the Zstore must have been referring to a system bypassing the external resistor. For their selection. Thank you, I will look for a replacement with resistance closer to those specified.
  5. Oblithian
    Please attempt to answer the given question.
  6. Oblithian
    Don't you need more than just an adapter to swap to the newer EV6/14s (i.e. saturated)? (not physically, I mean in terms of current and control)
  7. Oblithian
    I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  8. Oblithian
    Do the early model emblems fit (or could be made to) on the late models? In other words does the 70-73 decklid emblem fit the 74-78s?
  9. Oblithian
    If anyone could help me out that would be great. My "Datsun" badge just got stolen off my hatch/deck lid (decklid) while renewing registration. Does anyone have one leftover from putting on a spoiler, or know where I could buy one? Alternatively, someone with one might be kind enough to make a rendered file of it and share it with all of us so we can get some 3D printed. We should compile a folder of files for every random plastic component so we can just print them. I think I will get started with some fender badges.
  10. Oblithian
    Right, A low pressure would be much better for a draw from on top of the hood. I was thinking of draw from under the car, though it would likely be warmer so that is not the best concept. Even though flow would be higher, it would likely be moot because of how much higher vacuum pressure is than air.
  11. Oblithian
    Please take many pictures or videos for us!
  12. Oblithian
    Thanks! Anyway I just got it started. I pulled the plugs, blew the fuel out, cleaned the fouling, put them back in, disconnected the 7th injector and it started. Your suggestions have all been quite helpful.
  13. Oblithian
    Hmmm. Would there be a modern HEI that is easy to install? By which I mean, only requires rewiring at the distributor/cool. ...Or I could just swap to injectors with better atomization.
  14. Oblithian
    I will pull a couple of plugs to see. Then try starting fluid. Unless the circuits have frozen in a way that interrupts conductivity or increases resistance, I am not sure how it could be receiving too low of voltage. The battery is fully charged and a jump did not help. I took just about every device that makes heat and attempted to heat every key part of the car... which also included the key at one point, as the door lock was frozen).
  15. Oblithian
    I like the last suggestion. It is a 75 and it is fuel injected. It almost started today. It seems like perhaps the thermotime may have flooded the engine when it was simply too cold the first day. Then I just didn't give it enough time and compounded the problem on the following days?
  16. Oblithian
    I generally keep my car in the garage in the winter. So far, it has only had the occasional struggle starting when left out in the cold. However, this last weekend it was down to -37C, and I was over at a friend's place now it's Tuesday, -10C, and it still wont start (cranks but no firing at all). I have heated it well beyond what it should need to start (using several devices). with no luck. I have found the following, the pump still works, there is spark, it cranks just fine, and it won't start even when jumped. It runs and starts just fine above +5C (with no external heater). There is a possibility the fuel lines have frozen but that seems unlikely, and I have no way to test compression, but I hear that is another possibility. Does anyone have ideas or suggestions?
  17. Oblithian
    So I've been running 10W-30 for about a year and a half with no issues. However, in Australia they mainly run 60 weight oil, and the late-80s L28 Patrols run 10w-40. Is the low viscosity going to increase wear? Also, would it be worthwhile moving to 5W-30 in the winter (if it is often -20 Celsius or colder)? Not that 10W would even matter if you can run 20w-60 at -3 degrees....
  18. Oblithian
    Oh, After chicken man's comment and yours I was looking at a swap. I picked up a 300zx alternator, plopped it in now and threw in the diode. The linked page is a bit confusing but for anyone doing this later: I left the old voltage regulator hooked up (So I can convert it back to original easily). Connections wise, L from the old (WB) to L in the new. IG (Y) to S (See chickenman's pic of connectors above). Aside from that, everything new goes on the same as it was (The new post 12v post is wider, so you need a wider end). You can pull the leads out of the old T and slide them right into the new connector (used an old keyring and hammered the tip flat for a tool). Lastly, the line on the diode goes toward the alternator in the L wire (WB).
  19. Oblithian
    You mean in terms of the supposed solution to the car staying running when the key is off?
  20. Oblithian
    Hmmm, using the described method at http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm sounds like it would cause the car to run while the key is off, while the Atlantic Z method would cut power when the ignition is turned off... though perhaps brute force. Maybe I will give the Diode a try.
  21. Oblithian
    Thank you guys for the information. The Maxima alternator bolts right in?
  22. Oblithian
    I was under the impression the 260 and 280 have longer hoods. But having the vents near the windshield will be best in terms of reducing the pressure that builds up by the hood latch. So yes if reducing engine bay air temperature is your goal, that should help. ..Though there may be some unintended effects on drag and downforce. Out of curiosity, are you having the head modified for injection while you are at it?
  23. Oblithian
    Thank you. Any thoughts on the clutched pulleys?
  24. Oblithian
    This is very late but if anyone else sees this, perhaps these tips will help: I get around 11L/100km in my 4-speed 1975 280z 2+2 under mixed driving conditions (using regular fuel from shell). But when I first bought the car I was getting half that. After I adjusted the ignition timing the fuel economy improved greatly. Then I replaced a leaking injector hose, and it went up ever so slightly more. So a zx, which has a 5-speed and a lower drag coefficient ought to manage better gas mileage than me (assuming you drive like I do, which is to say gently).
  25. Oblithian
    Hello, I am new to this forum. So far, I have found the search function doesn't work as well as some other forums I am on. So if this topic has been beaten to death I apologize, but I did look (both on here and through google). As many posts here have acknowledged, the stock alternators on the S30 leave much to be desired (particularly at idle). I found sites discussing swapping to smaller diameter pulleys, but only in a generic sense. Therefore, I don't know what the alternator on a 1975 280z can handle ...or if it would even help. Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley in to increase the idle alternator RPM? What are your thoughts and what size might you suggest? Obviously, it will wear faster and I don't want to over spin it. On the note of wear, what do you think of swapping for a clutched pulley while I am at it? If no one answers, I will just try swapping in a internally regulated 70-Amp alternator from a 1986 300zx.
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