primaz

https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!

Thanks artishard116 for posting this radical suspension! Yes there is a market as I might buy it for my Primadonna Z car I will be getting back to after I finish two 240's that are more mild street cars. The reason is that I will be putting down 700-1000 HP via a RIPS RB35 and the rear end was my biggest worry. The Primadonna Z car can be super stable over 165 mph and with the RIPS RB plus this Apex Engineered Track Attack kit I think it will be the perfect setup. You folks have to check this out: also this one too

I would really like to know how this setup works in the real world. I have been impressed with the APEX Engineered products. If anyone has more information on this keep posting it... While you can just do the frame rails in my opinion to handle 500 HP and yes roll cages are great for the track and can take it further; I think this APEX kit is more for radically changing the suspension setup and for way more insane HP than a mere 500 where the 8.8 IRS is needed. I am likely going with the other APEX products to enhance the stock setup for one of my Z cars but this track attack system is intriguing for my Primadonna Z car?

Luke, I just noticed you live close to me; a great shop that can do all of the frame rail work and even some strut welding is Dando's Automotive in Fremont. Ask for Ken they can do all of this and the price is extremely reasonable... PM me if you want more infor

The links jhm & calZ are great. For a street car what I have found is that if you strengthen the frame rails then do some basic strut bars the car is plenty stiff for your needs and if you want to a bit more then do some further bars just for the towers; this will avoid needing cage. If you do want to race you would just need a hoop but for street there is no need. I added some pics of my rails and others have done similar versions. I did another 240Z where we found great boxed rails that were thinner and fully boxed so we just welded that on the bottom and eliminated welding inside the car; easier and similar result. This way your car is more street and others driving with you will appreciate not being in a cage. I own a more caged Z as well but when you get older you will find women often do not want to be in a caged car, maybe just a hoop but nothing more...

From others on the forum, I found these, which to me look to be one of the best CV kits to also consider http://www.zcarblog.com/tag/cv-axles For big wheels/tires you really need to measure your car as there are so many types of flares, suspensions mods, etc. that there is no one perfect offset to me, so why not just spend $50 and measure your car and get the perfect offset to avoid spacers, etc. Do that after you install your flares if you want flares and after you finish the suspension. FYI, you can stuff a 245 easily on all four corners on a stock body so going with flares with the right offset, you can run much larger sizes. http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334

Dude, Just rent that tool for $50 bucks that I posted and you can be assured of getting the perfect offset for your Z and eliminate any spacers. I do not understand what is the big deal? You can see from two of my 240's that a 245 will clear the stock body without any limiting of turning the wheels to full lock. I think our Orange Z with the +13 would clear without rolling but we rolled it to make sure. When you are going to find that perfect size to keep the fenders non rolled, just rent that tool and then you will be 100% correct with no guessing. Both of the two 240'z's I posted are street cars and the Orange one is a very mild ride with full coil overs that my wife drives. Sorry but to me, "don't be cheap, just rent the tool and measure your car".

A 16 x 8 with a 245 wide tire will fit without any spacers on a stock body but again to be perfect and especially if you guys want to push it to the maximum and run any size larger than 8" you could fit wider in the rears (255 + ) BUT why be cheap you can rent the right tool to squeeze your offset to the maximum for under $50 bucks. http://www.1320wheels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334 I read the posting of the guy whom stuffed a 275 but that required longer studs, modifications to the shafts, adjustable aftermarket lower control arms, and I believe he had different offsets on one side versus the other for some reason? Thus when you go beyond a 245 you do not want a mistake as the clearance that is left is so small you should not go by what others have used unless your car is exactly the same year, same suspension mods, brakes, etc. and why risk it for $50 bucks and you can measure it exactly for your car? My two 240's both have 245's but the offset is slightly different. You do not need to purchase those expensive tools $250-800 or buy a cheaper quality tool for $100-200; just rent the high quality tool for $50 bucks....

I am curious where are these supposed to be attached to the car? do they all suppose to have this on the car?

I have two (2) 240z's, one with 16 x 8" with a +13, 5" backspace on all four corners running 245 40's. The other is about the same setup also running 245's on all four corners. The fenders are rolled on both. The orange is not as low but the red one is about 4.5" off the ground. Both cars have no rubbing issues. Both cars have coil overs. Running 245's really enable the car to stick to the pavement incredibly. Rather than going with anyone's specific off-set, I would recommend that you buy that tool to measure the maximum tire/wheel your car can fit or go to a good tire shop and have them measure it. The reason to me is that everyone is likely to run different brand suspensions, etc. I think my Red Z if a slightly different off-set but I cannot remember what it is but I do believe it is 5" backspace, it is closer to a zero offset?. Thus if you measure it you can fit the max for your car. I know on my Red car that I think I could actually fit a 255 if I push it but doubt that would clear in the front so I opted to go front/back with 245's so I can rotate them. I am running about a -1" camber and get pretty good life of the tire (inside 1-2" might be worn down to no tread and the other end is usually at or more than the wear level so with rotating them I get decent life). Both Z's are running Arizona Z car front 12.5" vented 4 piston Wilwood brake setup. The Orange Z is running BC Racing coilovers and the Red Z is running ground control coilovers. Lastly both cars have no issues with turning the wheels to full lock, etc. no rubbing, etc. And yes both cars are running with no spacers....

You might consider this upgrade, https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Tubular_Crossmember.html

I would recommend that you check out Datsun Spirit and I would but them above Rebello... http://datsunspirit.com/

I researched the truck & off road headlights and the Vision X to me was the best and was rated the best in many sites. Fortunately our 7" round is used on Jeep's, 911's, and many other cars. Definitely get them with their optional relay so all five elements will go on when on high beam mode. Also make sure you are looking at current models as there are some older Vision X, they are all good but the more current ones provide incredible light output.

You might consider just really upgrading the headlights, I am using these and I think there are other places selling them cheaper but get it with the factory relay so all 5 elements can be on at high beam setting; these will be so bright I think there is no need for a fog light INMO https://headlightrevolution.com/vision-x-pair-of-7-round-vortex-led-headlights-chrome/

He is correct, you should either buy one of those measurement tools to determine the ideal offset, etc. or go to a good shop that has one to get the right choice for wheels/tires. On one of my recent 240Z's we are running 16x8" with a 5" backspace +13 offset and running 16" 245/45 series tires. You need to measure it with the wheel tool and make sure you go over the details with the wheel manufacturer to ensure you maximize the wheel size for your car. This car is lowered and the fenders are stock but rolled to ensure no issues.

Eji does great engines. I am getting my wife's .28 stage II complete and then I can drop my 3.0 liter into my 240z. What kind of ignition is that on your car?

I think you are right the Z Car Garage kit looks like what I will likely buy. The Primadonna Z body is very stable at high speeds compared to any other Z I have driven. Most Z cars float and even if you have the power it is not very safe at high speeds but this body is totally a different experience as it is so smooth and stable at high speeds. The old motor would only propel it to a top end of 165 mph but at that speed you could drive with one hand with barely any force, the car tracked and did not float at all. I was able to do a two lane turn just about as hard as you could yank the wheel and the car would track easily. I raced and beat a lot of much faster cars because of how well it handled those higher speeds. The only problem was my engine was maxed out so I could not go any faster but when a Ferrari tried to keep up they gave up, little did they know they had me on power but when I am done the Primadonna will finally have the needed power to then race other supercars on the street. I raced the car a lot on the street and the body is well built and rock solid. After I bought it from Jack I have added a 9 point cage and soon it will have way more performance than it ever had. I cannot wait to finally have that kind of power...

That is GREAT! My car is a pretty extreme wide body, right now it has old BBS racing three piece 15 x13 and 15 x11 rims with 345's and 285's with half inch spacers so there is even more room to put a wider tire but nobody makes one. Now that 15" rims are old school my tire choices are almost nil so I am going to buy new three piece CCW's either 17 or 18" or look into what options I can do on re-barreling the BBS as those rims are cool but I am not sure if that process will allow me to go up to a 17" or ? I was going to go with 1000 HP but talking to Dave at RIPS Racing I think for long term reliability I will go with their RB34 that will put down 750-850 HP as those versions are doing well as daily drivers in client cars in the UK; unless Dave says that I can go more HP and still be a daily driver? Again keep up the work as I really would like your kit as I have not seen anything that anyone has the confidence can hold up to these big HP numbers. I hope you have a kit option that is bolt in for people like me that do not want to deal with welding anything, etc. and ideally have everything look well finished. I plan on getting my Primadonna Z car back on the car show circuit for the first year after it is done so I really want all of the parts to look show quality and nice besides being super reliable for racing on the streets. So your kit will have everything to make the 8.8 bolt in and can I also use the Apex or TTT lower control arms with it? I look at your thread often and am eager to see you complete this kit!!!! Great job!!!

No, I am not Jack but I bought Jack's own car the Black Primadonna Z car and am currently updating it with a lighter body as well as bringing it back to show quality. That car was in numerous publications such as Z Car Enthusiast and others. I have never posted any website on the car but I have seen a number of people whom I have no clue whom they are, that have created website stories of the car, etc. which is a little weird but I guess cool? Jack won Oakland Roadster car show with the black Primadonna and after I bought it I put more money into it and it used to be on the car show circuit for a few years winning most shows. I have driven it pretty hard over the years so too many chips on the lacquer paint job so now after I finish our other two 240 Z cars will go a bit extreme on the Primadonna Z putting a ton of HP with a RIPS Racing RB Turbo 3.4 to be able to go over 200 MPH as well as be back to an ISCA car show quality car again. NewZed, that link you shared is the white Primadonna with the non boxed rear flares that Mike sold to Hoover Chan whom sold it to a guy in Florida and I guess sold it again. It looks in rather sad shape in those photos as the rear wing is missing a section that makes it complete. That car was never really a finished car as Mike designed that version with the extended windshield that goes out to the edge of the cowl and never had a finished interior to make it look clean since when you extend the windshield about 1 foot out you then have a bunch of unfinished sections that are now in the interior of the car. The black Primadonna was Jacks own car which was built a lot better in my opinion and uses the box rear flares so there is no bondo or filler to hold any of the panels on the body as every section bolts in and looks like it could have came that way from a factory. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Getting back to my original post, I was trying to clarify what I was looking for. While it seems using the term "best" gets everyone emotional? Sorry for using "best" All I want is a completely well engineered kit to convert the car from half shafts to CV's that will bolt in. I commend you folks that are welders but I just want to know which one to purchase that is already engineered to bolt in. I am converting at least two 240Z in the very near term so I just want to avoid issues and do not want to buy something I regret. I greatly appreciate the responses that everyone has shared as each one is very informative. For me I do want to find what will just bolt in that will work well and be reliable. Both cars are just about complete so I really want to get both of them back on the street soon which is another reason for focusing on a bolt in upgrade to covert to CV's.

Invincibleextremes, I am very interested in your pursuit to use the Ford Super 8.8 differential. I am not ready now but do plan on finally upgrading my extreme Primadonna Z that will put down 750-850 HP with probably 335's in the rear and 285's in the front. Do you believe that the Ford Super 8.8 will handle that type of HP? I want to keep my car independent rear suspension as the goal of this build is a reliable street driven Z car that can go over 200 MPH and fully use the HP I will finally have without anything breaking. If the 8.8 will handle it I think it would be great if you offered a really complete kit so that one can buy it but not have to modify anything just buy your kit and bolt it in. I know there are many whom are ok with doing a lot of the work themselves but I would be interested in a more bolt on kit to use the 8.8 and still be able to use the Apex Engineering or TTT lower control arms and other parts they offer to improve the performance of the 240Z factory design.

Wow, you guys go deep, very deep I will clarify, I just want the "best" meaning kit that requires as close to zero modifications to install and be very reliable. To me a well engineered kit should just bolt in and work well? Is that too much to ask? For my two street 240Z's they both have R200's, coil over suspension, one is about 200 HP the other is about 250-300 HP and both will be just daily driven street cars. If you have to modify, cut, weld, machine, etc. to convert it to CV's to me then it really is not a bolt on kit. Sorry to get a bit off topic but many of the great responses on this thread got me thinking about my 3rd Z car and what are the options for both differential and CV's for a more extreme street Z, my Primadonna Z car? Separate from the CV's for the two street 240z's I am considering upgrading the higher HP 240Z R200 rear end internals to the M Factory R200 Helical LSD; based on what some of you have implied I wonder if going with the Z Car Garage CV kit, upgrading the diff mounts using the Techno Toy parts and with the M Factory R200 LSD what kind of HP could that handle? When I get these two cars done I will finally be able to focus on my street storming 240Z, the famous Primadonna Z that I plan on putting in a RIPS Racing RB34 Skyline that will put down 750-850 HP. On that car I am not sure what to do yet for the rear end as I did contact Techno Toys and they said their Z32 TT will work up to 700 HP and they did not think anything but a straight axle would handle more? I think what they have converts the 240Z to use a Q45 or Q50 rear end with those rear end factory CV's, unless the Z32 TT is something different? For that car I would like to know if there is any kits that have a strong enough rear end that keeps the car independent suspension that will not likely break? Maybe the Techno Toys or the Arizona Z kits that convert it to the Q45 or Q50 might hold up since that car will be more a street supercar not a quarter mile car? I also have been following the threads on the Ford 8.8 rear end but it seems like there really is no kit available but people are trying to fabricate their own way to use that in place of the R200? I Right now I just want to finish these more daily driver Z's before I get into my more extreme build.

Jim, Do you feel now that DSS had changed their R200 Datsun CV solution and if so would yo recommend them now? Is there a link to their Datsun R200 product or do you just call them? Thus far the one that RTurbo listed from ZCarGarage seems like the best but it is a little on the steeper side at $1500. I have not made up my mind yet...

I am not that concerned about price but more on a very strong lug nut yet I still want the bling of a cool looking lug nut, say a blue type finish, or other colors, etc. compared to the standard chrome/black. I would like to have a locking lug nut as well. Looking online, I've read about staying away from cheap quality lug nuts, read that aluminum lug nuts are a scam, etc. I could not find any real true rating or reviews of lug nuts either. I guess I want locking lug nuts to provide some slight protection, and I want something strong as they will be used for a few of my performance Z's and other cars yet I want that more modern tuner type look, manly being attracted to the more cool colors and designs out there. What are the best quality lug nuts that provide at least one locking lug nut for each wheel that look cool but do not compromise strength; I do not care about weight since I really think that does not matter and I care more about them being strong?

Thanks, that kit looks really promising. Do you know anyone whom has used it? They do have some great case histories posted. It is a good chuck of change but cheaper than that one listed in one of the threads discussing the DSS issues one person had for $3400. I am about a month or two from doing the upgrade so this is great information as I do not want to make a mistake as I might end up doubling the error on two cars? "rturbo 930" both of these Z's already have R200's, what do you think of the T3: Drop Mount / Dogbone and their R200sn mustache bar? Is that more for looks or what? I am curious as the only issue I have encountered on these two street 240Z's is the typical clunk of the half shafts.

I am thinking of upgrading an R200 from stock half shafts to CV's and have read a couple of long threads about issues of slippage from Fotofab CV's that seem to indicate that is a common issue, and have read the thread on DSS which sounds like in 2017 to early this year they had issues? and while that person sounded like he finally got a set that would fit, I am confused as to which CV kit really is a direct bolt in that has not slippage and will work well? For this application I would be doing it on 1 or possible 2 of my more street machine Z cars, one with a 3 liter Datsun Spirit engine and the other with a 2.8 Datsun Spirit engine. I have a much more extreme race/street Z that will likely need something more bullet proof, maybe the T3 kit which I heard now is available for newer more common Infinity Q50? Not sure if that will hold up to around 800 HP ?