primaz

No, I am not Jack but I bought Jack's own car the Black Primadonna Z car and am currently updating it with a lighter body as well as bringing it back to show quality. That car was in numerous publications such as Z Car Enthusiast and others. I have never posted any website on the car but I have seen a number of people whom I have no clue whom they are, that have created website stories of the car, etc. which is a little weird but I guess cool? Jack won Oakland Roadster car show with the black Primadonna and after I bought it I put more money into it and it used to be on the car show circuit for a few years winning most shows. I have driven it pretty hard over the years so too many chips on the lacquer paint job so now after I finish our other two 240 Z cars will go a bit extreme on the Primadonna Z putting a ton of HP with a RIPS Racing RB Turbo 3.4 to be able to go over 200 MPH as well as be back to an ISCA car show quality car again. NewZed, that link you shared is the white Primadonna with the non boxed rear flares that Mike sold to Hoover Chan whom sold it to a guy in Florida and I guess sold it again. It looks in rather sad shape in those photos as the rear wing is missing a section that makes it complete. That car was never really a finished car as Mike designed that version with the extended windshield that goes out to the edge of the cowl and never had a finished interior to make it look clean since when you extend the windshield about 1 foot out you then have a bunch of unfinished sections that are now in the interior of the car. The black Primadonna was Jacks own car which was built a lot better in my opinion and uses the box rear flares so there is no bondo or filler to hold any of the panels on the body as every section bolts in and looks like it could have came that way from a factory. **************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Getting back to my original post, I was trying to clarify what I was looking for. While it seems using the term "best" gets everyone emotional? Sorry for using "best" All I want is a completely well engineered kit to convert the car from half shafts to CV's that will bolt in. I commend you folks that are welders but I just want to know which one to purchase that is already engineered to bolt in. I am converting at least two 240Z in the very near term so I just want to avoid issues and do not want to buy something I regret. I greatly appreciate the responses that everyone has shared as each one is very informative. For me I do want to find what will just bolt in that will work well and be reliable. Both cars are just about complete so I really want to get both of them back on the street soon which is another reason for focusing on a bolt in upgrade to covert to CV's.

Invincibleextremes, I am very interested in your pursuit to use the Ford Super 8.8 differential. I am not ready now but do plan on finally upgrading my extreme Primadonna Z that will put down 750-850 HP with probably 335's in the rear and 285's in the front. Do you believe that the Ford Super 8.8 will handle that type of HP? I want to keep my car independent rear suspension as the goal of this build is a reliable street driven Z car that can go over 200 MPH and fully use the HP I will finally have without anything breaking. If the 8.8 will handle it I think it would be great if you offered a really complete kit so that one can buy it but not have to modify anything just buy your kit and bolt it in. I know there are many whom are ok with doing a lot of the work themselves but I would be interested in a more bolt on kit to use the 8.8 and still be able to use the Apex Engineering or TTT lower control arms and other parts they offer to improve the performance of the 240Z factory design.

Wow, you guys go deep, very deep I will clarify, I just want the "best" meaning kit that requires as close to zero modifications to install and be very reliable. To me a well engineered kit should just bolt in and work well? Is that too much to ask? For my two street 240Z's they both have R200's, coil over suspension, one is about 200 HP the other is about 250-300 HP and both will be just daily driven street cars. If you have to modify, cut, weld, machine, etc. to convert it to CV's to me then it really is not a bolt on kit. Sorry to get a bit off topic but many of the great responses on this thread got me thinking about my 3rd Z car and what are the options for both differential and CV's for a more extreme street Z, my Primadonna Z car? Separate from the CV's for the two street 240z's I am considering upgrading the higher HP 240Z R200 rear end internals to the M Factory R200 Helical LSD; based on what some of you have implied I wonder if going with the Z Car Garage CV kit, upgrading the diff mounts using the Techno Toy parts and with the M Factory R200 LSD what kind of HP could that handle? When I get these two cars done I will finally be able to focus on my street storming 240Z, the famous Primadonna Z that I plan on putting in a RIPS Racing RB34 Skyline that will put down 750-850 HP. On that car I am not sure what to do yet for the rear end as I did contact Techno Toys and they said their Z32 TT will work up to 700 HP and they did not think anything but a straight axle would handle more? I think what they have converts the 240Z to use a Q45 or Q50 rear end with those rear end factory CV's, unless the Z32 TT is something different? For that car I would like to know if there is any kits that have a strong enough rear end that keeps the car independent suspension that will not likely break? Maybe the Techno Toys or the Arizona Z kits that convert it to the Q45 or Q50 might hold up since that car will be more a street supercar not a quarter mile car? I also have been following the threads on the Ford 8.8 rear end but it seems like there really is no kit available but people are trying to fabricate their own way to use that in place of the R200? I Right now I just want to finish these more daily driver Z's before I get into my more extreme build.

Jim, Do you feel now that DSS had changed their R200 Datsun CV solution and if so would yo recommend them now? Is there a link to their Datsun R200 product or do you just call them? Thus far the one that RTurbo listed from ZCarGarage seems like the best but it is a little on the steeper side at $1500. I have not made up my mind yet...

I am not that concerned about price but more on a very strong lug nut yet I still want the bling of a cool looking lug nut, say a blue type finish, or other colors, etc. compared to the standard chrome/black. I would like to have a locking lug nut as well. Looking online, I've read about staying away from cheap quality lug nuts, read that aluminum lug nuts are a scam, etc. I could not find any real true rating or reviews of lug nuts either. I guess I want locking lug nuts to provide some slight protection, and I want something strong as they will be used for a few of my performance Z's and other cars yet I want that more modern tuner type look, manly being attracted to the more cool colors and designs out there. What are the best quality lug nuts that provide at least one locking lug nut for each wheel that look cool but do not compromise strength; I do not care about weight since I really think that does not matter and I care more about them being strong?

Thanks, that kit looks really promising. Do you know anyone whom has used it? They do have some great case histories posted. It is a good chuck of change but cheaper than that one listed in one of the threads discussing the DSS issues one person had for $3400. I am about a month or two from doing the upgrade so this is great information as I do not want to make a mistake as I might end up doubling the error on two cars? "rturbo 930" both of these Z's already have R200's, what do you think of the T3: Drop Mount / Dogbone and their R200sn mustache bar? Is that more for looks or what? I am curious as the only issue I have encountered on these two street 240Z's is the typical clunk of the half shafts.

I am thinking of upgrading an R200 from stock half shafts to CV's and have read a couple of long threads about issues of slippage from Fotofab CV's that seem to indicate that is a common issue, and have read the thread on DSS which sounds like in 2017 to early this year they had issues? and while that person sounded like he finally got a set that would fit, I am confused as to which CV kit really is a direct bolt in that has not slippage and will work well? For this application I would be doing it on 1 or possible 2 of my more street machine Z cars, one with a 3 liter Datsun Spirit engine and the other with a 2.8 Datsun Spirit engine. I have a much more extreme race/street Z that will likely need something more bullet proof, maybe the T3 kit which I heard now is available for newer more common Infinity Q50? Not sure if that will hold up to around 800 HP ?

The Z car's have one of the best suspensions for handling out there and with improvements like a quality adjustable coil over setup they are great to race. Just with the common suspension upgrades for the McPherson strut Nissan setup, which is what Frank Leary's Giant killer Z car basically used that dominated racing and was national champion 8 years straight. It is a great design and with minor upgrades it will out handle most everything out there. You can get many upgraded parts to give you more unlimited suspension adjustment from Techno Toys, Arizona Z car, and if you really want to get fancy check out Apex engineering options, www.apexengineered.com/store/c3/240z.html

I have two of the Datsun competition trans in our two mild street cars and love them. One tip I recommend is to get the parts cytogenetically treated to increase the strength.

Great Build! I thought that 260's were only in 1974? I thought that the year yours is a 1978 isn't that a 280 not a 260Z?

for a street car these few pics should give you an idea of what I have on my two street cars and I feel that this is ideal for chases stiffness without the wasted space and issues bars for a street car. I can jack the car up with a jack stand and have three wheels off the ground; it give me the stiffness of my crazy Primadonna Z car with a 9 point cage so for street use I think this is ideal. If you worry about rolling the car you can add a basic hoop but no need to do the rest of the roll bar work for street as that just becomes a pain for anyone else you give a ride to, as they will not like the bars interfering with easy entry in the car, etc. Believe me very few women want to ride in a car that is too caged. This boxing of the frame rails goes from the front all the way to the rear sub frame and is boxed inside as well. It follows the factory fake rails and give is true strength of a framed car or a Z with a cage without the bars in the way for a street car. Unless you really want to compete for a track I think this is way better.

FYI, Having had a Z with his one of his mild cams, I can tell you that virtually all of his cams provided a very smooth power band. They were definitely worth the price. I think the only issue now is that a cam is one part and an engine needs to have the right porting work to really match the cam as well as the rest of the components. I am sure that if those really are Don's cam they have the potential to be way better than any other cam on the market. One note his very high lift cam more used for 3.2 liter high HP engines worked great but he had issues finding a valve spring that could last; if he lived a bit longer he would likely have solved that but it did not work out that way. It is sad to see his great work was not being passed on as he definitely created engines with way more horsepower than others like Rebello and Don's engines were bullet proof. I have drove cars with Rebello 3 liters and Don's 2.8's were way faster. Andy Hengesteg in Oregon has one of Don's 2.8 engines that will blow the doors off V8's and he did learn Don's porting work but he does not have the machinery or knowledge to do the bottom end. If you really want to recreate one of Don's engines I would have Andy build the head with the full porting work he learned from Don and have him advise you on which cam and then you need to figure out how to do the bottom end. Andy might have some input on that as well?

I have them on two of my 240z's and love them. I also used their relay so that when I am on high beam all 5 LED elements are on and that is incredible vision! They also look cool with circle of LED's on the perimeter. I did a lot of searches and read all of the LED reviews especially the Jeep and off road as our headlights on the Z car is the same as Jeeps and 911's. The Vision X LED is the best rated in the marketplace. I also have them on my 1963 Jag and they are well worth the money. Also these use so much less AMP's than stock...

I have two 240Z's both running 16 x 8" CCW's with 16" / 245 / 45 series tires, both cars have coilovers and rolled fenders with no problems. It is best to get one of those measuring tools or go to a shop with one to get the right offset for your specific suspension. You should try to measure it so you do not need to add a spacer.

we are about a month from completing the final assembly but here are some pics

I do not have a 280 but several 240's and I am in the process of completing my wife's 240z. I rolled the fenders to ensure no issues with tire rub which is a good thing to do especially running 245's. Her car has CCW's 16x8's with 245 on all four corners with no flares needed. I went with the standard BC coil overs but upgraded the springs to their Swift spring option as I have read many feel those springs are a better ride. I just finished our Mini Cooper 2003 S with BC coil overs with Swift springs and the handling is very good. For the Mini we had to soften the settings almost to the softest setting for street driving but it works well. I personally think with a 17" rim that the standard BC's would give it a good stance but again I have no experience with a 280? My other 240Z is an older build on the suspension, with Ground Control coil overs, 16x8 rims with 245's, rolled fenders, no flares, and that Z is about 4 to 4.5" off the ground so it is fairly low; it is a street car and that is about as long as you want to go as I have to angle every driveway or speed bump to clear. The BC's are great as you can adjust the camber, etc. easily and you do not need to weld in camber plates and are well made.

I know it is expensive but in my opinion the best is to go to "Just Dashes" and have them refurbish it; they redo the dash better than factory with a high quality thicker material that will last. I used to have a dash cover and they never look perfect and to me if you go through all the trouble to remove it to attempt a repair you might as well do it right as the cracks will come back and then you have all that hassle and labor to remove it and reinstall it again. http://www.justdashes.com/?s=datsun+240z

For LED's you need to replace the entire light assembly NOT just a bulb. I have used this on one of my 240Z's and my Jaguar 3.8s and they work GREAT! https://headlightrevolution.com/vision-x-pair-of-7-round-vortex-led-headlight-w-low-high-halo/ It is a little expensive but I think they are worth it. They are very bright with a very even wide light beam and they use such a fraction of the AMPS a conventional headlight would use. They also have a lifetime guarantee.

Datsun Spirit makes great engines and I recommend both fully built engines from them as well as their parts they sell for those willing to try to DIY. I have two of their engines, a Stage II mild engine for my wife and a 3.0 liter bottom end which uses a DL Potter ported head and Datsun Spirit cam. I think they are the best Datsun builders now that Don Potter has passed.

Can you push your budget and get the coil overs now? The reason is that a coil over conversion will greatly increase the cavity for wheels. I am running 16" 245 40's on all four corners on two of our 240Z's on a stock body with no flares. I just upgraded my wife's 240Z with the Arizona big brake kit with the larger master they recommend. On that 240Z I went with BC Racing coil overs which do not require you to weld in camber plates and are fully adjustable at a very reasonable price. To me I would go with coil overs first, then rims/tires, then brakes last.

FYI, Borla has decided to put these air horns back into production; I have just ordered four as I have two (2) 240Z's to use them on. Contact garryp@borla.com

Richard, I really think you should see if there a local Z club or try to find some local Z owners via this forum that has a 3.0 240Z and go for a ride. The straight 6 of the 240Z bored to a 3.0 liter with triples will pull like a V8 and then you will be impressed with the car's handling and how it will just kick ass over the majority of the cars on the road. All you would need to do is spend some money on the motor, suspension which might be around 10K or so. There are many V8 Z owners on the forum and you can build up the rear end to handle big HP. Like I said the Arizona Z rear end conversion and the Techno Toys should handle that HP. https:/technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car The Techno toy set up claims it can handle 1000 HP and I have talked to Arizona Zcar and their rear end conversion they were confident up to around 700 HP. Also for a Z car you do not do mini tubs for wide tires, you get custom offset rims and with mild flares you can then stuff 315's for example. You do this along with upgrading the rear end to handle the HP. You are butchering a great suspension if you mini tub it and go to straight axels. That is just plain crazy. The reason why I say this is that you clearly have never driven a true high performance Z car and I think you assume that a V8 would be great but to me that is not ideal if you change the rear end to solid axel as that would be a kin to taking a big block El Camino or 67 Camaro and doing a 3 foot lift and trying to turn those muscle cars into a 4x4 off road vehicle.

Richard, The Z car is an incredible car and one of the key things is the suspension and handling is part of the key to it's successful racing heritage. You can build them into big HP supercars but as others have said the cost is often much more in time and money than typical American cars but in the end you get a car that will kick their ass on a road course and street. To me it is a waste to turn a super handling car into a solid axel car that handles like crap. You can use your welding skills as the rear quarters and the top and bottom of the front windshield were lead welded. This is a non frame car so it is unibody design so for big HP you could use your welding skills to eliminate the lead and make those seams strong. Also I have added custom frame rails to make the chassis strong that looks like stock from a far but to a more in the know Z owner you notice that is has been modified. That is where your welding will definitely be valuable as that requires a lot of welding. There are good kits from Arizona Z car and Techno Toys that changes the rear end mounts to handle Q45 and other stronger rear ends for big HP and if you go crazy then you might either add to those cryogenic treatments or go for big bucks and go for Jerico and other road race rear ends. You DO NOT want to loose four wheel independent suspension of the Z so the bigger the HP the more the costs can scare you but it will be worth it. You do not need to go that high of an HP to get these cars to out perform many others. HP in the 300-450 will be very quick on a car that is so light. Sure you can build them for 700 to 1000 HP but you better have the money to build it right so you keep the car a great handling machine and if you go with that HP these cars will be one of the fastest on the street and able to beat most super cars. FYI, I own the Primadonna Z car as well as two other Z cars. I have a more street 240Z with a 3 liter Datsun Spirit engine, coil overs, etc. that is pretty darn quick and handles like it is on rails and that did not need 700 HP but more like the 300's. Also most Z cars do not have the aero dynamics to fully use over 700 unless you do even more body mods. The Primadonna is stable at high speeds and will be back on the street eventually with a 750-1000 HP RIPS racing straight 6 and will be ready to take down most supercars but it will take some years as that build is not for the faint of heart...as that will be a over 200 mph street storming monster

He unlikely has permission but I doubt his wife has the resources to stop him. Don was a great engine builder but poor business person and his wife never new how much all the part he left to her were worth and I heard most were sold at a bargain. Don created way more horsepower than all other engine builders in Datsun's' thru his custom cams but also thru his custom porting. He ported the head so that it created an ideal flow and twisting which enabled great power but with a very smooth power band and not the typical rough idle of hot rod cams. Don did get over 276 HP on 2.8 engines. In fact I know one friend with a DL Potter 2.8 and that car is over that HP and consistently will beat most V8 cars. Again Don built the fastest Datsun engines so what most of you have seen in other builders 3 liters is often what he got out of a 2.8. Don built a lot of winning autocross cars where they had to keep stock induction so the HP was via all his internal tricks that made them always faster. Don's engines even the 3 + liter motors ran great often with smaller 40-44 side drafts and did not need as much fuel as other engines. If he is replicating Don's cam it is well worth the cost. One thing I know is that on his more aggressive cams you need to find a super strong valve spring as that was one of the areas of weakness, you might want to change the springs periodically to avoid an issue. I am not sure if anyone can recreate his engines as so much was in his porting and unless you can copy that porting work you might only have part of it? Right now there are not many great builder that can get that much power from all engine with no fancy induction as Don did; right now I think Datsun Spirit is the next best option. Also 12.1 on the street seems a little high but 11 to 1 is doable. Also if you do not know the way he ideally set the timing, etc. you might have to play around with it a lot to get it to ideal power.