Ironfoot

Are the three piece spoilers still available?

Ya that's a good point but if I'm reading this "black box" right it gives you a lot of adjustment and works with pertronix II.

The p90 is a sweet head, especially if you're doing a turbo engine since it won't require a custom manifold. Plus it flows well and has high quench. I lucked into a complete zx turbo on the cheap. Just had to dig it out of the woods with a backhoe. Haha

Don't get discouraged. I couldn't afford to pay for the experience I gained in my youth "porting" jugs too far or doing other things people said that I shouldn't in the glorious goal of going fast. That's why we're all here, stick with it.

Hey guys where are we at on this black box? If there's a compatibility issue with the OE distributor and it's compatible with Pertronix; wouldn't it be easy and inexpensive to just drop one of their systems in the stock distributor? Pertronix Ignitor 1 and 2 have a solid reputation and their use has been well documented in the Datsun/Nissan community. I would be seriously interested in a modern and adjustable ignition setup that looks totally stock and cost under $300 all in. Also on the topic of distributor spark break-up, I had a 4th gen prelude si throughout high school and college which is a distributor type ignition and that thing screamed on the top end. Take it for what it's worth. Thanks guys. Good find.

I would absolutely rock that. My bumper was in way worse shape than that. I glassed the holes, puttied the dents, and painted the whole thing with rubberized undercoating. In any case I'm sure you could sell it for more than its worth in scrap. In regard to your question I believe all of the 240z's had pretty much the same bumper. It wasn't until '74 and the 260z that the bulky 5mph bumpers were added.

So that's what a steep ramp looks like! Haha

I think I saw the same site. From what I can tell the lift for this Cam is .575", but they're kinda voodoo about the overlap/duration. I'm sure it's pretty extreme. I saw a previous post that said even the odd stateside distributors won't talk about it and the only videos I've seen of it running doesn't show it idling. I'm sure with modern stand alone efi you could make it reasonably drivable, but it's definitely a hot Cam. Good luck. If you get one let us know how it works out.

Is this thread still open. I have a j32a1 in an Acura tl. Also they made Acura j-series 6 speed in the type-s models, fwd of course but easy flywheel source. Haha come to think of it I have a 5 speed h series accord around here too. I agree these motors are bulletproof. Without noticing I once put a hole in the oil pan of my accord sliding into a ditch. After a walk, a pull, red lining it reverse, driving 3 miles home, and leaving it idle in my driveway for 10 minutes while I changed; I noticed the dummy light on and killed the ignition. There was not a single drop of oil in the pan or even on my driveway and I had bounced that thing off the Rev limiter (7,200 rpm) for at least 10 sec getting unstuck. The next day I threw some jb weld on it and filled it up with fresh oil and to my knowledge it's still running fine. Honestly I credit Lucas oil stabilizer and that H on the bumper for that So glad to see a novel idea and these engines getting some credit. They can't be that bad if they put them in the supercar that changed supercars, the NSX.

Hey, love the 45, and your choice of color and bolt kit makes that thing look like it was pulled out of a jdm race bike or something. Spot on. I had a question about your brake setup, are those srt8 rear calipers? I ask because I broke a bleeder on my brother-in-laws srt8 jeep and couldn't believe how cheap you can get refurbished brembo 4-pots for and thought they would be a great size to up the s30's front braking power.

Thanks guys I have a lot to think about. The sharp (thin) edges getting hot makes a lot of sense. I haven't decided where to go with the motor right now. I'd like to not destroy the factory engine so eventually I'll be purchasing a 28, but I figured if a head swap was worthwhile then no harm done. I guess we'll see how she runs after a good tune and go from there.

So with the right head and headgasket I can get over 10:1 with my l24? What is the main reason for detonation in the l-gata, and what internally can be done to reduce it, and how do sharp edges come into play? I would suspect the head design (non-crossflow), plays a part but let me know. I am aware that it is a problem with these engines and have been considering converting to E85 to overcome it if I go all out in the future. Even so I would like to get the compression as high as possible with pump gas. A more aggressive cam would help offset it as well, but what little things like grinding the plugs as mentioned above, can I do to alleviate this tendency?

Thanks guys, that would be great if I could pull those numbers. And yes I agree that the stroke of the L28 should in no way be the limiting factor of the engine as far a high red line is concerned or more importantly usable power at revs. Even the LD cranked strokers are still oversquare by definition. The main goal of my inquiry was to see if it was possible to get a nice compression ratio for little money by swapping some junkyard parts, and it seems very feasible.

Cool, ya what a great tool that is. To get the real nice numbers I put in +1mm L28 flat tops, peanut head (E31), and NISMO .6mm headgasket, producing a 2.63 liter with 10.6 to one. Ya realistically a back yard crank/rod swap would be right where you quoted. Still a nice options for the money, thanks for the reassurance and help on the figures. If anybody has done this please chime in.

It's awesome to see the love and respect that Datsun has enjoyed since its very early years. Of course racing success and style go along way in the minds of motor mad, and Datsun has always had a lot of both. Still it's nice to flip through coverage of this year's SEMA show and see countless iterations of Datsun bliss, including this very interesting OS Giken build of a LD28 block with a version of their tc24 head done by Z Car Garage. This NA setup is purportedly making over 400hp and begs the question are all the blocks we've been ripping cranks out of for years going to be the next hot ticket. Probably not for the average Joe but it seems that with the taller block you could run an even longer stroke forged crank than you could otherwise. Of course it would require some ingenuity in the head department as well. This brings me to a question that has been rolling around in my head for a while, and I think it's been done, but I'm having trouble tracking down any real world info. I'll preface, this is a budget build question. OK, so here it is: If I grab a late flat top L28e from the junkyard and stick the crank and rods out of my L24 in it will it work? I would have figured this would have been one of the most common back yard builds since you end up with a motor that has only slightly less displacement that the L28, but a compression ratio of between 10:1 and 11:1 depending on head and gasket, along with the more favorable B/S and R/S ratios people are so keen to focus on. Any input or real world experience would be appreciated. I just love the idea of an all Nissan build that can be done with junk yard parts and result in this kind of compression. Any thoughts, or am I totally out in left field on this one?