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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. Welcome! I've had an E30 project car for many years as well.
  2. I got the last removable part painted...the car chassis/body is all that's left. I am actually starting to think I might finish this one day.... Sorry for the endless pics of green parts...it's all I have ATM.
  3. The issues of safety in a car as it relates to seats and belts/harnesses really needs to be approached with some thought and common sense. If you just buy/bolt on hardware without thinking it all through it is very easy to have a net decrease in crash safety. Aftermarket/racing harnesses will only provide a safety increase if they are installed properly and in concert with other hardware in the car. Since there are so many variables, I think you just have to consider what you are trying to accomplish in your specific application and what you have to do to make it work safely. I
  4. I have this monstrosity that I built as a front diff mount. It is .25" steel, and simultaneously ties into the suspension pivot mounts, the four strap mounts, and a .18" reinforcing plate welded to the top of the driveshaft tunnel. I am certain it is strong enough, but it is bulky, heavy, and a bit of a PITA to install. If the "new" TTT setup fails me, this will be waiting in storage as a replacement.....
  5. Yeah, when I initially ordered the T3 parts, they came with the front mount in the top photo, which it is very easy to see is far too weak for the job at hand. When they came out with the lower setup, I upgraded to that, which of course is just more money after what was already an expensive "kit". The new one does seem to be a good design though....how they should have designed it all from the start. It also can fit the Ford 8.8 diff should I need to upgrade to that down the road. I posted above that Matt Isbell's LS7 powered car started with the shortnose R200....jus
  6. I've been pondering these issues as well. My build has 486 torque, and I am using a short nose R200 with the T3 parts and Q45 CV axles. It isn't running yet, so I cannot comment on whether it is up to the task, but I admit to being worried about the R200 surviving hard driving. There won't be drag racing starts, but I'm not going to baby it either. My initial plan was to just use the R230 and be done with it, but I didn't like the available gear ratios. Part of my decision was made when I saw that Matt Isbell's LS7 powered Z road racer used the R200 shortnose, at least initiall
  7. Think how much better the world would be if it was just an airtight law never to use filler thicker than a quarter. There is never any legitimate reason to....
  8. The LF fender had to be cut up and re-glassed to fit my car, so it took some sanding and fiddling to get it ready for paint:
  9. I have figured out how to minimize them, but not completely eliminate them. I'm sure you know the problem. It is a very, very fine line between a nice wet coat of clear that smooths out nicely, and a coat that sags and runs.... Mainly I have become skilled at sanding/polishing out runs. I used to live by the "you don't have to be a good welder as long as you are a good grinder". Now that I'm painting, it's "you don't have to be a good painter as long as you are a good sander...." LOL It's all good though. I'm mostly happy with how it's all coming out. My labor co
  10. Thanks. In my case, probably more like 100 cars.... For example, I have yet to clear anything without having any runs. Fortunately runs are pretty easy to fix, but I sure would rather not have them in the first place....
  11. I am using one of these on my build: https://www.iimuch.com/ I cannot say if they work or not, since my build is not finished, but they claim to resolve precisely the problem you are talking about....
  12. Thanks. I would do it again...so far....but that assessment has a few conditions. I have not started on the main lump of the body/chassis yet, and with all the nooks/crannys and difficult angles, it might prove challenging in its own way. Although....Most of it will also be simpler as there isn't much body work to do in the interior/engine bay/underside of the car, etc. Just a matter of epoxy prime then paint with single stage. Then, if you wanted to pay someone to do this, there is the issue of finding someone you trust. Painting a car like this, where every inch w
  13. I finally got a coat of paint on the hood that I am going to live with. It looks great in the pictures, less perfect in person, but I am not going to repaint it again any time soon. Painting a car piece by piece....
  14. I haven't updated in a while because I have been spinning my wheels a bit. The photos of the painted hood here represent the second time I painted it. Hopefully the pictures are of adequate quality that the problem is visible.... "Tiger Striping"....which I guess happens when noobs without painting skills (me IRL) try to paint large horizontal areas. You can see faint light/dark "stripes" consistent with the motion of the spray gun. In my first attempt at painting the hood, this problem was obvious after I sprayed the base coat so I never cleared it. The second time
  15. Yeah, you wouldn't believe in person how far off they are. How if fails to show up in a photo is beyond me... Thanks for the suggestion Jeff.
  16. I tell ya, this painting crap can be frustrating. You asked which color was the "true" color. I have not yet repainted the smuggler's doors, but I put one of them next to the door in order to illustrate how different the two colors are. I mean, what the hell? In the photo they look pretty much identical. Again, the smuggler's doors are a different color and type of paint from the doors, which are a base/clear. I tried to match them with color chips. In the photos, it looks like I succeeded, certainly close enough considering that the two colors won't really be right up against each othe
  17. Good question...complex answer... The paint on the doors is a standard two stage base/clear color. My plan was to use a tough single stage commercial fleet paint (Delfleet Essential) for the underside, engine compartment, interior, etc. The specific color code I am using for the exterior is not available in the Delfleet, so I attempted to match using color chips. This failed...the chip appeared an exact match, but once I sprayed the Delfleet on the smuggler's door and compared it with the two stage on the doors, it was miles off. Weird how that works. So, "the" colo
  18. Doors after multiple coats of high-build primer and a lot more block sanding: Painted, clear coated, wet sanded, and polished: They certainly aren't "perfect"....but I am happy with the result. Thanks for looking.
  19. Well, my plan is to skim coat/block the entire door (both), hopefully to correct all major discrepancies. Then I am going to put on several coats of high-build primer, switch from 80 grit to 220, and start using the guide coat at that point. I have the powdered guide coat, but I can't really use it at this point because it doesn't stick well to all the bare metal areas. We'll see how it goes....
  20. Thanks for the input. I had epoxy down before the filler also....it all just sanded off the "high" spots as I was block sanding the door. Even with the epoxy primer on the door, I could tell very little about how straight it was, as the primer had a fairly flat finish and I couldn't get any reflection off of it. Lots of technique to this stuff. I think (hope) I am starting to get it down. One thing I learned today....unless your sanding block is absolutely rigid like a piece of wood, you don't want to apply any significant downward pressure on it while sanding....jus
  21. I actually sprayed color on the storage bin covers....just to get an idea what it would look like....and because I could. This is the color the car will be. I have gone back and forth as to how much I liked it, but now I have bought paint...both single stage for the interior, engine compartment, underside, etc....and two stage for the exterior....so I am committed now. This IS the color.... I started bodywork on the passenger side door, because I thought it was pretty straight and would only need minor tweeks/sanding. The more I fiddled with it, the more high/low sp
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