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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. I think he's talking about Supertrapp: https://supertrapp.com/shop-products/universal/auto-s-c-elite If you're not familiar with them, they've been around forever....since the 1970s at least. There are a series of baffles at the end of the exhaust pipe. To increase flow/noise you add more baffles, to quiet things down you go with fewer. I know these devices work, but I don't really understand how. It seems like the design would KILL exhaust flow, but somehow it doesn't. They have been used on a lot of racing cars and bikes over the years to take the edge off of a really loud e
  2. It's funny...I have heard a wide range of opinions about Heim jointed cars. Some say they wear and start "clicking" almost immediately, others say they get thousands of trouble free miles out of them. I guess I'm about to find out, as my project car has a crap load of them. I am interested in the R joints in concept, but I don't understand what makes them superior to standard Heim joints, other than costing 3X as much. They do not appear to be "sealed" from dirt and moisture, and while the metal ball rides on a plastic bearing surface, that is true also of many Heim joints that
  3. I had similar issues as I learned how to weld on mine. The copper backing works great, but in some places isn't really an option. What worked for me was to go pretty hot on the weld, but do it EXTREMELY quickly, like just a split second weld. The short duration helps prevent blowing through and keeps the weld from stacking too high (more to grind off), but the high heat setting still gives good fusion. Like you said, once you have a few solid tacks, it's easy to keep adding more to them. It is also critical IMHO to have a slight gap (1/16" or less) between the two pa
  4. The main advantage over the stock motor is just that they are available... But I used the Jeep motor (from a '90s Cherokee IIRC) because the common Honda wiper motor swap was a bad fit for my particular car. I am using a PDM for electrics, which can only switch +12V and the Honda motor is designed to work by switching to ground. The PDM cannot send a ground signal. Yes this could be overcome by using relays and such, but I figured this motor would be easier, simpler, and cleaner. All I did was look at photos of various wiper motors for sale, and chose this one becaus
  5. Well, things are moving along. Slowly, but moving.... I got the engine and transmission installed and wired. That all went fairly smoothly. I got the clutch working...but doing so required upping the master cylinder from .75" to .875"....for the clutch to fully release before the pedal hit the firewall. The Jeep wiper motor works and parks the wipers correctly. Not sure there whether I was lucky or good....but it was surprisingly easy. Shifter installed. Driver's door mounted and pan
  6. If my goal was just to go fast, I should have just taken the money spent on my Z project and bought a Corvette. In terms of speed vs $$$, Corvettes can't be beat. But I hate Corvettes, not even sure why I do. Besides, mainly I wanted to build something.
  7. In a strictly pointy-headed-theorist sort of way, I suppose the 911 is poorly designed.... The 911's racing success proves that in all of motorsport short of the absolute engineering pinnacle (F1), weight distribution is of relatively low importance compared to a myriad of other factors. Committed manufacturer support of a race program is one of them. The most dominant 911 based car was no doubt the 935. I used to watch them during the late '70s and early '80s. Compared to the Dekon Monzas, Greenwood Corvettes, and BMW turbos, the 935 did handle poorly. But while
  8. I used to say exactly the same about Harbor Freight... Then they came out with their "Icon" line. "Snap On" quality for 1/4 the price. I have tried them. I hate to say it, but it's true. They are going to completely change the market for pro-level tools worldwide.
  9. Thanks Buddy, good to hear from you. I won't tell anyone you're on a Datsun forum....lol. I don't expect to build another car anytime soon. Too expensive, and TBH I am getting a little tired of it and ready to move on to something else...you know....bingo....feeding the pigeons at the park...pool aerobics. All this car work keeps ruining the velcro straps on my shoes. Besides...I'm sure getting this thing running will be just the beginning of getting it truly "sorted". My "other" car is currently sitting in the garage with a dead battery. I feel a little like I have betrayed
  10. LOL....I have always heard it as "perfection is the enemy of excellence", basically same meaning I guess. It is one of my favorite expressions, because I have anal-retentive tendencies, and I frequently have to remind myself that perfection is not a realistic goal.
  11. Tognotti's is a surprising place. They have remained successful in a largely mail-order world by actually having a significant amount of inventory in stock. I realize they have a small online business as well, but I am confident that the vast majority of their sales are walk-ins. The place is a time warp for me. I used to go in there in the 1970s when I was a kid (hell, I even remember when the building was a supermarket), and it has not changed at all. It still even smells the same. Most things would change in 50 years, but not Tognotti's.
  12. Well said. I remember reading an arcane discussion many years ago about the suspension work done on a Porsche running in the IMSA GTO series (I realize that dates me horribly). The team felt they knew better than the engineers at Porsche who designed the suspension, and were making a case that the car would be more successful with their modifications. Were they correct? I have no idea, largely because the series was won by a car running a live rear axle.....lol.
  13. OMG, that is a mess. I think in the '60s and '70s cars were only expected to last a few years, and they were built accordingly. It isn't just Datsun, pretty much every car from that era has rust issues. We all like older cars for our own reasons, but in terms of being long lived/reliable/efficient transportation devices, modern cars are so vastly better. I think you could buy nearly any 2020 model car and drive it for as long as you like without rust ever being an issue.
  14. I live in the same area as you, and I have encountered that issue several times with Summit and other companies with products that cannot be shipped to California. I have made several trips to Summit, and I had to also make several trips to paint suppliers in Nevada to get the products needed to paint my car. Ironically though, if you do a bit of searching, there are a lot of companies in the other 49 states who do not give a crap about California law. They will ship products here even without the state's blessing. California governing is only going to get worse in this regard.
  15. I wanted to add, that would be unthinkable to me. The crimped lines are light and clean looking, but I cannot count how many times I have carefully measured for a hose assembly, then after building it found it was slightly too long or short or just changed my plans entirely. I actually considered buying a crimping machine....until I priced them.
  16. I followed their recommendations, and yes it resulted in a huge cooler.
  17. I find that curious, because with the Ultra Pro hose, the covering, be it braided stainless or fabric, is not in any way attached to the Teflon liner. With the retro braided stainless covered rubber hose...like Earl's "Classic", the stainless braid is solidly bonded to the rubber hose to achieve a high vacuum rating. With Ultra Pro the covering is just that...you can slide it right off the Teflon core. Hard to see how the covering has any impact on preventing the Teflon from collapsing, unless the steel braid's increased rigidity helps prevent the liner from becoming oblong or eg
  18. I used Earl's Ultra-pro for oil, fuel, and coolant, the steel braided variety for fuel and oil and the fabric braided for coolant. I initially planned on using it just for fuel, because the Teflon lining is impervious to alcohol fuel additives, but I liked it so much I used it in the other applications as well. If you have ever used the traditional rubber-lined steel braided hose, I think the Ultra-pro is a huge improvement because it is much MUCH more flexible, and thus vastly easier to work with. I used the traditional rubber lined hose for my diff cooler plumbing, just because I had some
  19. I added quite a bit of heat shielding before dropping in the engine and transmission. Most of it is DEI "Floor and Tunnel Shield II". The small rectangular shields on the frame rails are pieces of aluminum covered with the DEI stuff. I had thought that my brake lines and wiring harness were far enough from the headers to be safe, but then I saw a YouTube video detailing how someone else's LS3 swapped small car had completely lost brakes because the header heat burned through both fire sleeve and then the teflon lines. Although in this case it looked like his brake lines were o
  20. Thank You! I would have started out with an overheating engine if I missed this...
  21. This is good information. I Installed a heater (well, defroster really) in my car and when it is turned off I would have this same problem....flow between the heater hose ports would be blocked. Would it accomplish the same thing to plumb an "H" with AN fittings between the water pump and heater core, or does the LOJ part have other design features I am missing?
  22. On my current build I used a total of seven cans of 3M cavity wax, inside all the frame rails and anyplace else where there is "blind" metal. Seven cans sounds like a lot but it goes pretty fast. This stuff really does seem to run into even the smallest cracks, and after applying it you will find it running out everywhere there was the slightest gap. I even applied a couple of coats inside the "A" pillars, because I tied the cage to them and the welding certainly burned off whatever was applied inside them at the factory. It can be endlessly debated the merits of weld through pr
  23. It all is looking great. Be sure you give a lot of thought to how you are going to final weld all the awkward parts of the cage. The urge is to tightly tuck all the bars as close as possible to the bodywork, but if you go too far with this you can wind up with almost unsolvable welding access issues. In my case I found the welding of the bases of the main hoop and the "A" pillar bar to be....challenging....and I think I left a bit more room than it appears you have in mind. In retrospect it might have been easier to TIG weld those areas, using a big gas lens and lots
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