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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. Yeah, I got nothing. That's better prep than I did. Definitely disconcerting.
  2. If you can do pretty welds on the thin Datsun sheet metal, you are a better welder than me. The metal is so damn thin that if you try to completely grind the weld smooth, it is very easy to overly thin the surrounding metal. My approach, at my limited skill level, was to grind the welds down to the point that you can just barely discern a slight raised area, then use perhaps .03" or thereabouts of filler to finish things off. You will probably need at least that much filler to straighten panels anyway.
  3. I don't know what to think of that. I did an adhesion test, where I cut criss crossed lines with a utility knife all the way through the RB and into the base metal, leaving a grid of small roughly 2-3mm squares. Then I burnished on a piece of Gorilla double adhesive duct tape over it, and pulled it off. Nothing, not one little square or even a corner of a square, lifted off. This was on clean, lightly scuffed metal...no rust... What was your substrate?
  4. So far I have to say I have been pretty impressed with Rust Bullet. I am not using it on rusty spots, rather just brushing it into seams and what not where it will be difficult to spray in epoxy. I did a bunch of testing before using it. It dries rock hard in 24 hours, and the adhesion to clean (not rusty) and fairly smooth metal is absolutely unbelievable. It also dries to a slightly "flat" finish so epoxy sticks well to it without scuffing. With a slight scuffing, the epoxy sticks so well to it that it's never coming off... How well it encapsulates and "kills" rust, I cannot
  5. Project is looking fantastic, great work! I certainly agree with you about Timeserts. The only advantage to Helicoils is availability. I can usually find Helicoils locally whereas Timeserts always have to be mail ordered. But in terms of design and installation, Timeserts are far superior. In designing my front brake caliper brackets, I too wanted to avoid relying on threads tapped in aluminum. I just had them drill through holes to use a nut and bolt to secure the caliper. in the rear that wasn't feasible, so I just had the brackets machined in steel. The weight
  6. Thanks for the write up. Honest accounts of customer experience with a company are extremely valuable to potential customers. I have been hearing of negative experiences with Apex for quite some time, and it is disappointing. Some of the items they have made are very cool, a few are going on my build. It is just too bad they cannot seem to get the customer service end up to speed.
  7. I've been working on prepping the body shell for epoxy primer/seam sealer/paint. Basically the regimen has been needle gun/hammer & chisel to remove weld spatter, assortment of wire brushes in an angle grinder to remove other weld...crap....followed by maroon Scotchbrite to remove burned epoxy (from welding) and to scuff the epoxy coat that was put on three years ago. Literally every square inch needs to be scuffed, there are a lot of nooks/crannies, as you can imagine. To keep from going crazy, I set small goals for the day, and once they are done I stop, even if I feel like
  8. I really question whether the POR-15 metal prep is absolutely necessary, or just another product they want to sell. I used to use POR-15 on small parts that I fabbed for various projects, simply because it is pretty much as tough as powder coat but you can do it at home. These were not rusty parts, just clean metal that I lightly sanded to scuff, cleaned with brake cleaner, then coated with POR-15. It worked fine without their metal prep step.
  9. This is none of my damn business, and if you tell me that I won't be offended.... Having said that, I am curious why you decided to sell it? Did you find that you enjoy the build/project more than you do having/driving the result? I ask because I think I have a bit of that in me. I like the planning and execution of a project, then tend to become bored with it when I am finished.
  10. I wire brush, sand, or Scotch Brite the metal to a clean state, with no rust, clean/degrease with Prep All (made by Kleanstrip), then epoxy prime. The only thing I would caution, is that Prep All doesn't work well with water soluble oils, like if you sweated or drooled or rubbed your greasy hair on the part. To clean that stuff off I use a little bit of Westley's Bleche Wite on a rag or paper towel before the Prep All. The Bleche Wite is basically just a very strong detergent, so I make sure I remove all traces of it with a damp rag then immediately blow the part dry. Prep All evaporates a
  11. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
  12. I know exactly what you mean... I was going to use POR-15 in a few areas on my project, but their TDS was insistent that I had to first use POR-15 metal prep, and rinse it off with water, before applying the product. I knew that would be a horror-show of flash rust, so I just used another product (Rust Bullet). Maybe POR-15 is designed to work best over a layer of surface rust? Or maybe the company is just greedy and wants to sell as much prep as they do POR-15? I'm not going to try it.
  13. Thanks for the input dudes, I sincerely appreciate it. I too am dubious of some of the claims of these sorts of products, but keep in mind I am by no means "pushing the envelope" in terms of what they claim to do. AFAIK, I have no rust. I am just forcing this product into seams where it is impossible to be sure. I live in a very dry climate, but my car has been "in progress" with a lot of bare metal for three years. The only surface rust that really appeared during that time is a little bit on the right rear quarter (because that is near where I drain the water from my compress
  14. Nowhere near 1/2 gallon in my case. I just ordered one of these: https://www.rustbullet.com/product/six-shooter-combo-industrial-automotive/, because it is a product that if you do not carefully clean off the lid/rim of the can after each use, it is impossible to get the lid off again. I have just done the seams on the interior of the car so far (two coats), and that used up one small can. Yeah, chassis prep sucks. It is hard dirty work in awkward positions and there is little satisfying about it. The stitch welding in particular. Try to meticulously get the joint clean enough
  15. I cannot say whether it is an epoxy or not, but I can tell you it is a one part product. You just open the can, brush it or spray it on. You can thin it with xylene, or their own thinner, but neither product will soften it once it cures. They claim that once it is hardened it is solvent proof, and that has been my impression as well. I test stuff like this a lot before I actually use it, and after 24 hours of drying it is immune (as far as I could tell) to acetone, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, prep sol, xylene, and 91% IPA. It has a fairly thin viscosity...it runs easily and
  16. Getting ready to paint the interior of the body shell. While working on this project, I have sort of been pondering how best to rustproof all the non-original lap joints that have resulted from the assorted modifications. Where possible, I primed the blind side of all the parts I welded on with epoxy, but there is still going to be bare metal (burned off) in close proximity to all the welds. There are also multiple seams where I removed the OEM seam sealer/paint and the epoxy in the course of stitch welding the shell. Since these cars like to rust as they come from the factory,
  17. I ordered some items from them a couple of years ago, and IIRC at that time they were working out of Wisconsin. For the record, my experience with them was good, but I am aware that more recently there have been some complaints about misquotes for delivery time and poor communication. I just noticed from the links above that the Apex website shows no phone number, no email, no physical address, just the "contact us" link page. Over the years, I have ordered all sorts of items for project cars (not just Datsuns) and I have learned through hard experience that this con
  18. Welcome! I've had an E30 project car for many years as well.
  19. I got the last removable part painted...the car chassis/body is all that's left. I am actually starting to think I might finish this one day.... Sorry for the endless pics of green parts...it's all I have ATM.
  20. The issues of safety in a car as it relates to seats and belts/harnesses really needs to be approached with some thought and common sense. If you just buy/bolt on hardware without thinking it all through it is very easy to have a net decrease in crash safety. Aftermarket/racing harnesses will only provide a safety increase if they are installed properly and in concert with other hardware in the car. Since there are so many variables, I think you just have to consider what you are trying to accomplish in your specific application and what you have to do to make it work safely. I
  21. I have this monstrosity that I built as a front diff mount. It is .25" steel, and simultaneously ties into the suspension pivot mounts, the four strap mounts, and a .18" reinforcing plate welded to the top of the driveshaft tunnel. I am certain it is strong enough, but it is bulky, heavy, and a bit of a PITA to install. If the "new" TTT setup fails me, this will be waiting in storage as a replacement.....
  22. Yeah, when I initially ordered the T3 parts, they came with the front mount in the top photo, which it is very easy to see is far too weak for the job at hand. When they came out with the lower setup, I upgraded to that, which of course is just more money after what was already an expensive "kit". The new one does seem to be a good design though....how they should have designed it all from the start. It also can fit the Ford 8.8 diff should I need to upgrade to that down the road. I posted above that Matt Isbell's LS7 powered car started with the shortnose R200....jus
  23. I've been pondering these issues as well. My build has 486 torque, and I am using a short nose R200 with the T3 parts and Q45 CV axles. It isn't running yet, so I cannot comment on whether it is up to the task, but I admit to being worried about the R200 surviving hard driving. There won't be drag racing starts, but I'm not going to baby it either. My initial plan was to just use the R230 and be done with it, but I didn't like the available gear ratios. Part of my decision was made when I saw that Matt Isbell's LS7 powered Z road racer used the R200 shortnose, at least initiall
  24. Think how much better the world would be if it was just an airtight law never to use filler thicker than a quarter. There is never any legitimate reason to....
  25. The LF fender had to be cut up and re-glassed to fit my car, so it took some sanding and fiddling to get it ready for paint:
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