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Everything posted by Ironhead

  1. I sure understand your goal here. I went with a Fidanza aluminum flwheel, which was fairly light (12# IIRC), but then used a Centerforce full sized clutch. I was blown away by how heavy the clutch pressure plate assembly was...to the point that I was wondering why I even bothered with a lightweight flywheel. I have another track car (not a Z) that uses a very lightweight racing clutch, and my use of that car is similar to your intended use. It is doable, but also pretty easy to stall in traffic if I don't concentrate on it. It is possible to slip it...a little....but overall it
  2. It's designed for drifting...but if I ever use it for that you can shoot me.... It's just a rear emergency brake. It has its own master cylinder and only activates the rear brakes. It also has a line-lock lever downstream which you can flip to use as a (temporary) parking brake. The car has no proper parking brake. Basically I won't be parking it on steep hills unless I want to chock the tires. Honestly...one of the big reasons I included the handbrake is in case I ever need to get rolling on a hill....lol. You know...to keep the car from rolling backwards.
  3. Nevermind...a half dozen clamps, a lot of swearing, and perhaps 2-3 years off my life got the job done.
  4. So anyone who has installed this glass, was it a complete and total PITA? If I try to put it in dry, the friction with the rubber seal is so great that I cannot get it to seat far enough inside the hatch frame for the "string technique" to work getting the seal over the inner frame lip. If I lube it with detergent/water, it seats inside the frame adequately but then sort of pops out like a watermelon seed... Out of desperation, I am thinking of using woodworking clamps to hold the glass/seal sufficiently inside the frame while I try to work the seal over the inner lip.
  5. It probably won't help much, but I just wanted to add that my current setup is all Heim joints. I am going to run them, and if harshness and/or rapid wear become issues, I was going to try the r-joints as well.
  6. Here is the hole in question. Like I said, I am pretty positive it is not a rust hole, and to me it looks deliberate. I don't know what to think. I'm filling it.
  7. Few more photos of assembly, mostly related to the fuel cell, plumbing, and rear car wiring. Back up camera:
  8. Weird. There is no evidence there was ever rust there, so all I can guess is that it was a thin spot in the metal that was cut through when the car was media blasted, which really makes very little sense. I'll post a pic tomorrow. In the meantime I'm going to fill it in. Thanks for all the input.
  9. Do you remember seeing a small hole in the upper driver's side corner of the windshield frame? I am not referring to the drain holes on the lower frame...this would be a smaller hole, maybe 1/8" in diameter.... My car has such a hole, and I do not know if it is supposed to be there for some reason (can't imagine what) or if maybe it was made when my car was media blasted or something. Debating whether to leave it or fill it with seam sealer before putting in the windshield.... Like I said, I cannot imagine the purpose of this hole, but it looks pretty much perfectly round like i
  10. It is very smelly when first applied, but I think that is primarily the carrier fluid which quickly evaporates.... After a few days I cannot really detect an odor to it, but keep in mind this is all in my shop which is full of various smelly chemicals.
  11. Since we all know how much Datsuns like to rust, I used no less than seven cans of 3M Cavity Wax and completely douched every blind spot on the car with the stuff. Primarily inside all the frame rails, and the rockers. I am also going to do the doors when I retrieve them out of storage. It spent a couple of days dripping wax. Then, after giving the car a week for the two-stage paint to harden a bit (it has remained very warm here) I carefully began final (I hope) assembly. No real rhyme or reason to it, other than trying
  12. I too just followed the SCCA rules. In my case 1.5"/.120" wall tubing, and .100" for all the reinforcing plates. IIRC those specs are good up to 2800# car. I sure as hell hope my car doesn't wind up heavier than that....but it could I guess.
  13. I know the factory Porsche 935s had an aluminum roll cage, but again, they were raced long ago. I wonder if the ones still participating in vintage racing have been retrofitted with steel cages...?
  14. I pondered the same thing, wondering if the floor is an adequately sturdy mount for seats. If you think about it, a seat is most likely to break free in a crash if the impact occurs from the rear. Then the entire weight of the driver will be slammed into the seatback, and the harness will do little/nothing to keep the driver/seat in place. In a frontal impact, nearly all of the driver's momentum will be captured by the harness with very little strain on the seat. Same with a roll-over. A side impact will be somewhere in between. This was my reasoning for installing
  15. Great work! I'm sitting here kicking myself for not just going with the Ford diff from the beginning. Too late now. If it breaks I will go Ford then.
  16. I imagine most of you have already seen them....but there are black and white photos floating around detailing the cage design on one of the later BRE Datsun Zs from back in the day. A couple of things that stood out about them. For one, they didn't "stitch weld" the OEM joints, they ran solid beads down the entire sheet metal joints. The other thing that surprised me was that they used a hell of a lot of tubing. My conclusion was that they were much more concerned with rigidity than weight, although I cannot tell from the photos if the tubing is chrome moly or mild steel. The
  17. Finished the painting. I am definitely ready to move on to something else:
  18. I just wanted to weigh in....I too consider McMaster-Carr to be the best retailer on the planet.
  19. For some reason, both those colors look metallic to me. They aren't?
  20. Boy is this the truth. I did it, and just remembering doing it gives me PTSD. Actually I would rank the entire stitch welding process, if one is fairly thorough about it, as very high on the PITA scale. Probably the thing I hated doing most on my car. Of course, it isn't the welding, it's removing the paint/primer/seam sealer so you can weld it.
  21. I am (currently) using the GM oil pump, and Gary Armstrong of ARE told me exactly the same thing. I was unsure if he was trying to sell me on a dry sump pump with a pressure stage, or was speaking the truth. It was moot anyway, I might have bitten but a larger pump would simply not fit in my application without HUGE modifications. What is the upgrade you refer to?
  22. I don't know honestly what is "correct practice" (you will get a bunch of opinions) but I did stitch weld this area, for whatever that's worth (not much). There are many informed, intelligent car fabricators who will say that stitch welding itself is a waste of time. At the end of the day you will have to do what seems correct (and worth the effort) to you.
  23. I actually hadn't heard that. I'll have to look into it. So far the LS3 is bone stock except for changes I made to the oiling system. It's funny, I have tinkered for years with assorted Japanese and German inline engines, but I have no experience whatsoever with US pushrod V-8s.
  24. Bit of prep work involved to paint a 45 year old car.
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