JMortensen

Diameter, thickness, venting. You might be able to bolt the rotor to the hub, but that's not going to get you much.

Thanks, I meant to copy and paste the ebay link.

I want, but don't have the money. 550 hp, 2500 lbs, already has everything done... http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41999

Must have been an offset problem caused by using the thin hat rotor with the caliper designed for a thick hat. This would push the caliper about an inch outboard. If you consider the diameter of the rotor is 10.15" (just looked it up online), then logically you'd have a lot of room inside a 14" rim. My friend ran his with 14" 6 spoke ZX wheels, 13 x 7 Panasports, and 13 x 7 steel circle track rims. No problems on any of them, but he was using the deep hat rotor and the early caliper, so that moves the caliper inboard. I expect the same with yours if you add a wheel spacer or got a spoke design the similar to your 15's.

Just to clarify, 280ZX rear disks DO fit under 14s. The Modern Motorsport setup uses 300ZX disks which are larger diameter and it's possible that they don't, I don't know because i haven't tried them. The early 280ZX rear disk actually fits under 13s, a friend of mine ran them on the back of his 510. I would assume the later 280ZX is the same but have no personal experience there.

Damn! That's impressive as hell!

The 39:11 stamp would indicate that it is 39:11.

There should be another mark on the ring gear which has a string of numbers and part of it is the ring and pinion count. It might say 39:10 or 10:39, I can't remember which order they are in, but I think in the US a 10 tooth or 11 tooth pinion would be most common. You can always mark the ring and mark turn the pinion and see how many revolutions it takes for your marks to come around.

FWIW I was thinking of the shape in the picture. Uh... you... uh... you have a little typo in this sentence that makes it technically not make any sense. Ironic...

I was taking issue with YOUR statement, not the original post. The original post is wrong. Your statement is also wrong. Fair enough. Also tells me that you can't FEEL if the rears are acting appropriately though. Don't feel bad though, I don't think 99% of the Z drivers out there can feel a bias issue, but that doesn't seem to stop them from proclaiming how great their brakes work and how they are properly biased. If you were able to adjust them to where the rears did lock first, and then back them off until the bias was correct, I submit that you would find a huge increase in the braking potential, and learn what it feels like to have proper bias. I did. When I was able to drive my Z last (~6 years ago) I was locking up the brakes at least once a month, but that's because I autoxed every month and did several track days a year, and I had a tendency to drive too deep into the braking zone. I would say that you are under the erroneous impression that your braking is very good and controlled, but in all likelihood the rears aren't doing what they should. Brake upgrades aren't as simple as saying bigger is better. If bigger isn't correctly biased, it will probably be worse than stock (at least until you run into temp issues). I would suggest that yours are probably worse than stock if they're like mine were. Mine improved SIGNIFICANTLY by going back to stock front calipers and keeping the ZX rear disks. Good call. You might do something about the bias issue while you're at it.

That's a pretty bold statement. I don't think it's true either. Look at AZC's brake setup for example. For years they ran 1.75" piston Superlites in front and 1.38" piston Dynalites in the back, I think the 6 piston fronts are still an option. You don't ever seem to hear about people complaining about the rears locking first. The kit comes with an adjustable proportioning valve in there and it seems to work for a lot of people. I HOPE it works, I'll be doing something similar on my car. Of course I'll have dual masters, so I can just go to a smaller rear master if I have trouble. I'm thinking you just haven't seen how they actually work when you do lock them up. I went to a driving school with a similar setup, 4 piston Toy fronts on solid rotors and 79 ZX rear disk with a ZX master and SS lines. They had us drive through a huge puddle and slam on the brakes to get the feel of locking them up. I was told by one of the instructors that my rears never locked even while driving through the puddle. This was with the stock prop valve gutted and an adjustable one on the back that was all the way open. After that I removed it entirely and it STILL didn't have anywhere near enough rear braking. After that I returned to stock front calipers and I was finally able to lock the rears first, and toned it down with the adjustable prop valve to get it where it should be. Definitely. The 4 piston front calipers with solid rotor only buys you a little more time before the pads overheat and the brake fluid boils. A vented rotor will really help to dissipate the heat and that's what you're looking for. VARA racers have to run the Toy vented setup and they do pretty well with it considering how powerful the cars are and how sticky the tires are.

That's just the kind of feedback I was looking for. Thanks.

January must have been especially cold this year... Congratulations!

11 1/2 lbs??? That's a big girl! Then again my girl was 8 lbs 3 oz and a month early. With 5 I wonder how you have any time for the Z at all. CONGRATS!!!

I like the slip on rotors. Don't know why more people don't do that, certainly makes maintenance easier. I did weigh a stock rotor at 12 lbs, and I know the 12.2 x 1.25" rotor is 12 lbs, plus you have the hat, so I think you might be wrong on your setup weighing less than stock.

Uh... don't earlier turbos ALSO have the finned cover but without the LSD?

I need a right side net and I'm wondering if anyone knows of one that has a quick and easy length adjustment to it. I want to be able to adjust the seat back and forth.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerodynamics The purpose of the sharp tip of a supersonic shape is to minimize the shockwave. The purpose of the rounded nose of a subsonic shape is to cause the air to react to the shape and stick to it, reducing drag.

I meant to order Hypercoils, but grabbed the wrong part number when I ordered from Coleman. Anyone think these are crap and I should send them back and get the Hypercoils?

I wonder if the seats are all wrinkly before you turn the car on.

AWD, 4300 lbs, AT. Something is going boom. It's just a matter of time.

With no personal experience whatsoever, this sentence seemed like it would be true to me, and it was. I took my hubs and studs out to the shop and just threw a hub in the press and pushed on the stud. with a SHORT handle only about 5" long and not pushing very hard I was able to push the studs out. New studs went in fine and held when I used an impact to pull them into the hub. I guess I was being overly cautious. Thanks guys for the ideas.

Looks like the hub weighs about 4 lbs according to the bathroom scale. I can tell you that the rotor that goes on it weighs 9.2 lbs according to Wilwood and I think Austin had said the rotor and hub weighed 12.x lbs, so my bathroom scale is probably just not accurate enough to get a good measurement.

From what Austin tells me he bought them from someone else who paid $600 to have Coleman machine make them. They are custom and are machined from one solid billet of aluminum. The hat fits a 8 x 7.625 rotor and I'll be using a 12.2 x .81. I was going to use them as Austin sold them to me, but then I figured out that I can use Wilwood calipers instead of the single piston PBRs that Austin was using. Austin had measured the weight of the hub and rotor combo at 12 lbs a couple years ago and that stunned me at the time, which is why I jumped on them when he said he was going to an AZC setup. That's lighter than the rotors I had for my JSK setup, and then you have to figure the weight of a 280Z hub on top of that.

And if the back of the flange is very un-flat?