JMortensen

I mean he's tyte, yo. Either that or you're spelling loser wrong.

I thought he tightened it. He is a tighter, not a looser.

Oh yeah, forgot about the turbo. I can tell you that Electromotive uses timing retard as a rev limiter, and when you hit it it's like hitting a wall. Much more severe than MSD's soft limiter, so I think it should work in theory.

Don't mean to be rude, but do you really think you're going to hit the bumpstops when you're looking at the spring, or do you maybe have a camera set up in the fenderwell or something? If not, you should KNOW if you're hitting the bumpstops with the car stationary, because it would shake your fillings out when you drove it. If you want to check what part of the travel is being used, I like the zip tie on the shock shaft method. Perhaps doing that test might require taking the tire off if the spring was on the right way, but how many times are you going to need to check that?

Wouldn't shutting off the fuel work even better? I thought there were some FI systems that did that...

Maybe you need to move to Cinnabar so you can hang out with these guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65aLfKke7IM

The long ones DO go in the back. Not sure what problem 2003z was having, maybe he had a 280 and switched the strut tops front to rear or something, but I'm 99.999999% sure on the spring length. You can search here or at classiczcars.com and find the question asked before with the same answer. Example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32463 Also the spring winding thing is correct as stated by A G Olphart. Putting the tighter winds at the top means that less of the spring is unsprung weight. It's a little thing, but the devil is in the details.

Not the best idea in my opinion, unless you make some sort of enclosure around the cell or taxicab the thing so that if you get rear ended the fuel cell doesn't cover you in gasoline. I like the cell or tank under the car with a sheet metal barrier between you and the fuel.

No.

I believe he was banned.

It was just a radiator with a bunch of crap in it. I don't think the header wrap was the cause in my case either in retrospect. BTW I ran my old engine which was L28/E31 (same head, different bottom end) for about 40K miles daily and never had any overheating issues aside from the one time the fan belt just decided to let go for no reason.

Why aren't you shooting the radiator with the temp gun? That's where you should get the most accurate temp numbers. On the surface it sounds to me like a bad temp sensor. The other thing to look out for on a fresh conversion is the thermostat, especially if you didn't change it out. I was told that you should always replace the thermostat if it has been used and then goes dry. I didn't buy it until I had two Toyota thermostats take a dump on me during headgasket swaps. Now I just change the thermostat every time the coolant gets dumped.

Douche Z??? Try Troll Z next time. Thanks for the chuckle though troll.

It depends on how tight your local courses are. The less shifting to third you need to do the better. If you have the power you might consider starting in 2nd too.

Just make sure you get the right stuff. I've ordered Mikuni parts from them twice. Twice I was shipped the wrong parts. They're great to talk to on the phone, but they don't seem to be able to get the right parts in the box.

The drivetrain swaps over. The rest (including brakes) does not. When you pull the diff you don't get the brakes, because both have an independent suspension system.

Is it just me or is your bracket flexing/coming apart?

Continental is #13 As to the Audi, have you seen this?

Swag = $50

There's a plan. Now how to pass the time between calling the cops and them showing up while the armed intruder is in the house? I suggest Yahtzee. There is something satisfying about the dice rolling around in the cup. It really takes the edge off when you're worried about the armed intruder coming down the hallway...

[cynicism]For the afternoon? 30 days? Sounds like B&E but he didn't take anything. At least anywhere that I've lived you can't count on that kind of crime to keep a guy off the streets for any length of time. He'll probably plea it down to jaywalking, pay his $5 and walk out of jail in time to get some lunch.[/cynicism] Glad you made it out of that situation, that is a scary one. With your considerable arsenal, I would suggest you pick a larger weapon to carry while you go investigate the dog barking at 4AM next time.

Look up the specs on Dan Baldwin's engine and cam. I think he might have the same cam, and he ran it on the street.

The LSD operates when the wheels turn at different speeds. If you're going straight and not flooring it, the gears and clutches in the LSD aren't moving. They might be getting compressed by the cross pin shaft, but they aren't moving. So if you have a grinding on decel that is not an indication of a problem with the LSD internals. It is an indication of a problem with a bearing or with the ring and pinion. If a bearing or ring and pinion goes bad and puts a bunch of metal in the oil, that could affect the LSD. If the LSD has a problem that could put metal in the oil and take out a bearing or gear. Simply having a grinding on decel doesn't necessarily mean the LSD is in trouble though.

Seemed to work just fine for me. It was a little tough to start bends at the end of a tube, but really worked fine. I would imagine 1.75x.120 is a lot tougher to bend than 1.5 x .120. If you're building to SCCA specs I think you can go 1.5 x .095 now. I found a couple different specs in the rulebook and erred on the side of caution, and then they reduced the requirements. Bad timing on my part...

Depends on the springrate. The stiffer the springs, the less travel you need. If you follow the (debatable) notion that the sag should be 1/3 of the travel and your car weighs a perfect 2000 lbs with 500 on each corner, you could say that a 500 in/lb spring needs 3 inches of travel total, a 250 in/lb spring needs 6, etc. Change the guideline to 1/2 and you're looking at 2 inches for the 500 in/lb spring and 4 for the 250 in/lb spring. My gut feel is that for a very very stiffly sprung car maybe 3-4 inches, a stiff car, 5-6, and anything less than say 300 in/lb per corner should try to keep all the travel they can. This coming from a guy who used to lower his coilovers all the way down and autox about 1" off the bumpstops, so take my own hypocrisy into account too. I think the factory travel is 7" at the wheel, but that's an old fuzzy memory so don't take me as gospel there without double checking. The other question is how are you going to limit the travel? Probably the only real easy way to do it is to use droop limiters and coilovers, so that you limit "excessive" or unused rebound travel. I can't think of any Z that needs the compression travel limited. They were pretty limited to start, and then you start lowering them and losing travel that way, and you end up running out really quickly.