JMortensen

The "money coming out of his ass" will be used, I promise...

The issue with splitters is angle change/nose dive/suspension compliance/whatever you want to call it. My SWAG is that most street driven Z's are way too softly sprung to really utilize the downforce a good splitter could generate. Cary might chime in if he's reading this thread but I believe that one he tested was driving a Z with 450 in/lb springs into the ground. It was a lot bigger than Austin's, for what that's worth. I think the prime area where you would feel instability would be under high speed braking. One solution is to add a raised center section that is say 1" higher and tapers down to the flat area with the rest of the undertray. If done properly with a diffuser in the back this can actually increase airflow under the car and into the diffuser, thereby increasing downforce and makes the splitter much less pitch sensitive. Not legal for most lower racing classes, but it's a good idea... Some examples: http://www.mulsannescorner.com/dallaralmp10.html http://www.mulsannescorner.com/nasamaxdm139.html http://www.mulsannescorner.com/couragec60-05.html http://www.mulsannescorner.com/lolab2k40-1.html

Doesn't sound like the LSD to me. LSD would chatter at low speed while cornering. If you do have LSD chatter, the solution is to keep adding more additive until it goes away. You might add 2 or 3 of the little tubes or bottles of additive. Your problem sounds like driveshaft alignment or U-joints to me.

I think this is a good possibility. It would allow the angle to change between tire and strut housing regardless of what is going on down below.

OK, so it's a 54 and not a 39. It's still not a big deal in the world of hand cannons, and the idea of cutting down a bolt gun to make a pistol isn't a new thing either. They're cool when they're done right, I just can't see myself doing it like that. The Contender or the Savage on the other hand...

And the XP100 is a Remington 700 cut down to a pistol, and the TC is a breakopen pistol too. All take high power rifle bullets. Much bigger than 7.62x39 I hadn't seen the Savage before, but it looks like it is similar to the Remington. I do like Savages though. Just got to shoot a friend's .223 with heavy barrel and the accustock deal. Pretty impressive.

I think I'd much rather have a T/C Contender or a Remington XP100: http://www.tcarms.com/firearms/g2Contender.php http://www.remington.com/library/history/firearm_models/centerfire/xp-100.asp They're available in much more powerful calibers and would actually be accurate too. A buddy of mine had a Contender when I was a kid. He had a .223 and .44 mag barrel. It was a fun gun, and I really liked that you could switch barrels (hence calibers) within 10 or 15 minutes.

Sounds like you need to stop inviting stupid people to your house.

DO NOT run your wheel bearings torqued to 25 ft lbs. Follow the factory procedure. I would follow the advice to check the ball joints.

KAAZ and Cusco are still available I'm pretty sure...

My next door neighbor, a sweet little 80 year old lady, loved my rotisserie (and the Z). Every time we have some type of get together here everyone gets a trip to the garage to check it out. I have yet to show it to someone who failed to be impressed, and yes, I still think it's cool as hell a couple years later... Glad to see you got it flipped all the way. Especially for things like subframe connectors, that really helps.

When I worked at a Volvo dealer in the mid 90's the service manager Per Heldin (a Swede who raced a Firebird in ITSS, incidentally) had that poster on his wall in his office.

In thinking about this, maybe the offset of your mount is enough to cause a clearance issue. If you have a clearance issue you might lower the mount with your slotted setup.

Why would someone copy the manifold and then move the runners? Not only does it not make sense to do that, it would also be a lot harder than just doing it right the first time. They would have to stretch the balance bar on one side and shorten it on the other side to do what they did, and then presumably they'd have to change the direction of the runners slightly to get everything to bolt to the head. I'm convinced that what I had was a Cannon manifold, not a reproduction that went to great lengths to screw up.

40.5". Looks like yours will flip.

It looks like you still have a lot of stuff bolted to the shell. Taking some of that stuff off will help. You can add counter weights so that it is less top or bottom heavy, a la zlalomz.

Don't put it right in the corner either. That works great for a sedan, but in a Z you'll need some space for the seat to scoot back in between the diag and the side of the hoop, assuming you're say 5'10" or taller...

That woman's whole life should be titled "Define Irony", unless she doesn't consider all of the little bugs that live on her skin animals. Of course, nix that if she doesn't shower to save the animals that call her body home... Then I guess it would be "Define Disgusting".

I took 5 seconds and welded a bar across the back of mine because the stand in the back of the car constantly pulls out. The one in front doesn't, I think it's because I got the mast just off of square when I welded it up. Very annoying, but it was a simple enough fix. The handle that came with the stand would work too. Can't remember if they have a hole in the end for a cotter pin or something to keep them from falling out. My handles are long gone...

Just to be sure you got what I was saying, I used the 240SX cable, not the bracket. I was running 280ZX calipers and they had the bracket built in. You'd need the cable and the bracket I suppose, but the cable upgrade gets rid of a bunch of crap in the trans tunnel so I think it's worth it regardless. Have you tried any forums for those cars? Should be pretty easy to find.

I can't remember if I mentioned using a 240SX ebrake cable or not in any of your brake posts. Go get a cable from a 240SX, remove the front bell crank and hook the cable directly to the handle, then tie it up in the trans tunnel with the stock springs, then just find a good spot and bolt the cable brackets to the floor somewhere convenient. Works great. You might try a smaller master to make for more pressure at the caliper end. The pedal will be softer, but I know from experience that you can have to provide so much effort at the pedal that it throws off things like heel/toe downshifting and is generally more difficult to deal with. The crappy workaround for brake ducts is to route the hose up and over the spot where the tire will hit it when the wheel is turned. Obviously that's not the best for airflow, but it might be better than none and repairing ducts every time is a PITA.

In my case it wasn't a matter of the holes being misaligned. Maybe PeteW who bought my carbs can measure but the distance from the runners was VISIBLY off. You could see that the gap between the sets of runners was different. Unfortunately I didn't see that until I made a pattern for the backing plate using the first two carbs, then flipped the pattern and drilled holes for the middle and last carb and found that they were guessing 1/2" off. It's been a while so that is kind of a rough guess based on fuzzy memory. It could be that someone redid the casting along the way too (which would have been a good thing). The top and bottom halves were also not symmetrical on mine, the top half was situated probably 1/8" or 3/16" off to one side relative to the bottom. It's got the long runners which is nice, but the original Cannon casting that I have experience with is crap.

Why bother with any aftermarket springs on a stock cam? The stock springs should run the cam up to any reasonable redline without any trouble at all. Spend money where it will make a difference.

I used short bolts and fished them in through the sides of the tube.

If you have the square tube and you cut a couple 4" lengths and weld them to the forward face of the tube, then the 4" lengths will space the middle out away from the body. I can take a pic, but it's as simple as the short lengths of tube replacing your smaller square tubing and flat plate.