JMortensen

50 psi isn't enough at say 6 or 7K rpm. The rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Did the gauge you bought use a ferrule, and if it did use one are you sure you got it installed correctly? Mine came with plastic tubing and I tried the provided ferrule and ended up with a gauge that was very slow to react and read low. I fixed the ferrule and used copper tube and suddenly the gauge responded instantaneously and accurately.

Nope, that should work fine. Looks like a 4 pinion open diff so should be more durable than the 2 pinion variety.

Poly will tighten things up a lot, but it's a matter of how fast do you want to go...

The 510 is basically the same damn thing, only the ZX has coilover springs. Aluminum subframe bushings, slotted crossmember, and a good alignment gets you pretty much there. Add some springs and shocks and a good rear bar and that's pretty much it, unless you get into swapping another suspension system into it like 260DET did. Yeah, sick of that video. Find a Porsche video or something. There are plenty of fast semi-trailing arm cars out there. The trick is to get the suspension to move as little as possible...

Sounds like it.

The front and rear lines get the same amount of fluid at the same pressure. The reservoir for the front brakes is larger because the pistons are larger and as the brake pads wear the fluid level gets lower faster. The block in the front is just a distribution block with a pressure sensor so that the brake light on the dash will come on if either the front or rear brakes are getting more pressure than the other end. The factory proportioning valve is in the back on your car. It is part of the T that splits the rear brake line to each wheel. It's up near the frame rail at the front of the right rear wheel well. You can gut it, and then use a proportioning valve there, and possibly that's all you need. If opening the adjustable valve all the way doesn't have the desired effect, then I think you really need to look at pad compounds or duals.

Do NOT install a prop valve in the front brakes. The valve has a knee in it and it is NOT actually proportional. The harder you press the brakes, the less effort you get out of the braking circuit that has the valve in it (compared to the one without--in other words, they aren't linear). That works well in the rear because weight transfers off the rear under braking and you actually need less effort in the rear under heavy braking than under light braking. In the front the reverse is true, so you'd get more rear braking as you stepped harder and harder on the brakes with a prop valve in the front. That's a recipe for disaster. A good solution would be to go to a dual master setup and get a smaller master for the rear, or play with pad compounds etc. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml

280ZX springs are larger diameter and should be totally different.

Watched it several times, close but not quite by what I'm seeing there. What I was trying to do (after being taught it in a driver's school) was the following: 1. Left foot brake to start braking process 2. Transition to right foot braking- both feet on brake pedal 3. Left foot comes off to work clutch, right foot heel toes to manage downshift It's step number 2 that is damn near impossible. It's hard to press threshold braking hard on the pedal and then squirm your left foot over and right foot onto the pedal in time to make it all work. I was going to try welding an extension on the left side of the brake pedal, but ended up giving up on the whole thing first. If you look at the video, he doesn't transition from left to right foot braking. He jumps from left foot braking to right foot braking and there is a split second where no foot is braking.

Some of those taps might just be resetting the pads to make sure they haven't knocked back out of the calipers, so that the pedal is firm when you need it, but he is certainly using the brakes mid corner to change the attitude of the car also. One thing I didn't see was him trying to switch from left foot to right foot braking and shifting, which is what I was having so much trouble doing.

I was wondering that myself. I Googled it and found that batman was supposed to be performing oral sex on someone. I guess if you look at what I was thinking looked like his shoulders as legs, and the emblem on his chest as a hemmorhoided, gaping butthole, then I kinda get it. I think it's pretty weak though. I see him doing pushups on his knuckles a lot more clearly...

That's looking like a tight fit. Some fixes: wheel spacers, different offset wheels, 15" or 16" wheels, slot crossmember and adjust the bumpsteer with a combination of the two adjustments. I went for all of the above...

I've checked, and a 15x10 with a 4.5" backspace fits both the JSK front brakes and the one off front brakes I have which both use a 12.2" diameter rotor and a Wilwood caliper. The Toyota stuff should easily fit in a 15 or 16 inch wheel since it uses an 11" rotor.

If you look at a data log from a left foot braker and a right foot braker, you can see the gap from the time the right foot braker comes off the gas and switches to the brakes before every braking zone. The left foot braker has no gaps if they can do it well, and if it's 1/10th of a second every time that's 1/10th of a second that the left foot braker can stay on the gas a little longer. Back about 10 years ago they did this with Michael Schumacher and Rubens Barichello. They showed the data plots one on top of the other and explained where Rubens was losing time, and they said at the time that he was the last right foot braker in F1.

It's Phantom Grip, but I think your name is probably as accurate. Either way, how hard does a phantom really grip, you know? Do a search and you'll find some info on it. It is basically a couple of plates with springs that fits in between the side gear and presses the side gears into the sides of the diff, like a "lunchbox locker" but a "lunchbox LSD" instead. It works to a limited extent, not torque sensitive and you have to wonder what is going to wear out first. I personally think it's a POS, but you'll find guys who have them and say they work if you dig up the 3 or 4 year old threads on them.

I'm pretty much where you are at Dave. I was trying to do the left foot brake and then switch feet to downshift and found that damn near impossible under pressure. I could do it on the street pretty well, but on the track I think there was too much pedal pressure required. I was practicing on the street and luckily no one was behind me the day I SLAMMED the brakes when I hit the brake thinking it was the clutch pedal going for a shift. I never realized how hard I hit the clutch pedal until that moment, and actually it took me a while to realize it after that moment. I initially thought I had been in an accident or something. I was driving along, shifting to third and suddenly I was hard in the seatbelt. I laughed for quite a while after I realized what I had done though. After that experience it was left foot braking for autox and right foot for anything where downshifting was a consideration. You also have to figure that up until the late 90's or so Rubens Barichello was right foot braking in F1, so it's not like you can't be a fast right foot braker.

Any parts store will have it. Some say GM, some Chrysler, some Ford. It's all the same stuff. If you add one bottle/container/tube and it still chatters, add another. Just keep adding until the noise goes away, you won't hurt anything.

930 CV's have a pretty high angular allowance, I'm doubting it's binding due to angle. I'm still thinking the CV shaft is topping or bottoming, or the Quaife is doing something funky. I just can't see what has been described as a shock issue. It's a good mystery though!

I believe Tom is running 300ZXT CV's. I think that makes it less likely that the halfshaft is the culprit, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it apart and check for problems too. Could also be a CV bottoming issue as John suggested, but I seem to remember Tom went to some length to have the CV shafts shortened to prevent that problem. I don't remember him saying whether he ran it through the travel by hand to feel for a bind though...

Sounds like a driveline issue by that description. I'd be looking at taking the Quaife apart and seeing if that is the culprit.

Flipping springs makes no difference at all except in the unsprung weight. Long springs go in the back, that other guy was wrong. If you look, the wheel wells are actually cut differently in the front and the rear. It's normal that the rear should be lower compared to the front if the car is perfectly level because of this different cut. You can put the 280 insulators on and that will raise the back approx 1". If that makes it look better to you and you already have the parts it seems like a no brainer to put them in. The best solution would be to get wheels with a different offset. You should have no problems running 195s on the back of a Z without rubbing anything.

I'm with you. I suppose if your finances are such that the $35K or whatever they wanted for the motor is no big deal and you have a hard on for it, go for it. Even if I had the money it would be very low on my list. Even if you're looking at the whole motor, so what? Can you imagine buying one of those OS Giken engines and blowing it up racing? Where are you going to buy parts? Better buy a couple spare motors while they're available again. You can go buy a better mill that's easy to get parts for at the local store for a small fraction of the cost. There are just so many easier ways to get from A to B. That's my jaded view after spending years lusting after the head and then finally realizing that I could buy a V8 for $1100, put maybe a grand in it and get 400 hp out of it and it will run on 87 octane gas.

Poly in front, rubber in back, or all rubber. Or get the G machine aluminum/nylon ball socket setup and put rubber on the back of that.

Get a cheap mechanical gauge and see what it really is. Then you're not chasing problems that don't exist. I had a pump that put out over 100 psi cold and it didn't leak until I put an adjustable relief valve screw on it, so I don't think the leak is a sign of too much pressure, it's the sign of a bad seal against the timing cover.

I understand that car has "Ramble On" on permanent repeat...