JMortensen

It's a 5 speed with T56 parts, comes from late model Mustangs. I had never heard of it until I PM'd Scott. Keisler Automotive upgrades the boxes and makes custom bellhousings. http://www.keislerauto.com/index.php?/mopar/mopar-bare-transmissions/5-speed-manual.html

So this will use stock U-jointed halfshafts then?

Have you gotten your transmission yet? I emailed Keisler Automotive and they gave me a quote for everything, trans, bell housing, clutch, pp, flywheel, hydraulics the whole thing, and it ended up just over $3K. Curious to see how yours comes out and if it all bolts up like they say. I did some research and wasn't able to find anyone else using the t45. Maybe I was looking in the wrong places...

Careful. If you cut them too short than the control won't move to the right spot on the console. Then it seems like people tend to try and really PUSH the lever all the way over. It gets pretty annoying. You can cut a little, but not very much...

Just a wild guess here, but try reaching under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. I'm thinking maybe they're stuck down.

John Coffey had to preload his Quaife to keep it from spinning the inside in a long sweeper. I think preload can be beneficial in these diffs, although I don't think the measurement of 40 lbs breakaway will feel the same on a clutch diff vs a helical. There is a breakdown of how to measure on a CLSD in this writeup: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

What good is a rifle with a broken muzzle? I did shoot a 7mm Mag at a range once with a muzzle brake. The guy and I traded a few shots, he had just gotten his rifle and was told it "kicked like a .243". My .243 definitely kicked harder than his 7mm.

Funny that he's searched far enough back to find a thread in 2002, but hasn't come across a better solution than the strap and stock front diff mount...

I have run the A005's for years. I ran them on 8" wheels though, which was not the right thing to do. The 250/590/15 is the same application as the 23x9.5x15, although the Hoosier is the faster tire and the Yoko is just ever so slightly taller. I found the Yokos to be hard and they didn't seem to have the grip of my friends' Goodyear and Hoosier tires. I have probably gone through 5 or 6 sets on my car. They don't wear out; they get heat cycled and hard to the point where they need to be replaced. I ran one set for a full season and 3 track days and it still had probably 40% tread on it. It is nice when you have limited adjustability and can't get them really dialed in right. Run them about 28 or so hot, that can be down in the 22/23 range cold if you're doing track days. Clifton also ran them for years, I think he still is running them in the front of his track car which I saw was unfortunately for sale the other day...

Man that's too much gun for me. Get up above .30/06 and I start getting a little sensitive to the recoil. I'm curious as to the instruction on how to deal with more though. I was taught to hold the rifle TIGHT to the shoulder, not sure what else there is to be done. Would you like to share some insight Grumpy?

I've been shooting since I was 5 (note the length on the original stock). I'm long past being sucked in, although I guess I'm getting sucked in "again". I used to reload and all that. When I start thinking about buying another reloading press, then I'll be scared. So far so good...

Yes, that would work.

What kind of gun are we talking about? Sounds nice. I was reading some on .22 ammo and specifically about not getting the high velocity stuff for 50 yd target shooting since it breaks the sound barrier and then slows through it again before it hits the target which causes turbulence. So for target like you say they were suggesting standard velocity. The trigger on mine is a bit heavy but crisp. Probably a 4 lb pull I'd guess. I'm going to try and deal with the heavy pull, which I don't think will be too hard because it really doesn't have any creep at all. The other thing I'm looking at now is the 24" barrel. Reading more online has convinced me that about 16" or so is better for velocity and maybe even accuracy too, so the question now is do I hack the end of the barrel off? I think I need to shoot this thing and decide whether it is worth all the hassle first though...

Oops, I thought this was from the L forum, sorry. If it's shim and bucket then the lift you measure should be the lift at the valve.

You can test the lift with a dial indicator and some V blocks. Set the cam in the blocks and rotate and measure the lift, then multiply by 1.5 which is the rocker ratio for the L series. If you have the HKS specs and they are far enough apart on lift from one to another that should be enough to find out which grind it is.

Start with a 240, that will help.

Surprisingly, yes. That's why I hesitated on doing the glass. The action is really not tied down very well at all. I originally had ideas about tapping another hole in the back of the action, but the bolt is right and the metal is machined down to ~.020" thick, so there isn't room. Not sure what else can be done. At this point I'm thinking if I want a super accurate .22 I might just build up my 10/22 or buy one that is all done up.

Here's a Rem 581 update. Been working on this thing after dinner at night for a while. It took a month to get the stock from the auction on gunbroker.com that I won. The guy didn't ship at first, then it was delivered to my neighbor, the order just went badly. But the end result was that I did get the stock. It was ROUGH. Read some sites on the internet and they talk about these semi-finished gun stocks being pretty much plug and play, pick your color, do a finish sanding, etc. Not this one. First problem was the cutout for the action was about 3/16" too short. This required me to buy some wood gouges which I didn't have, but hey, new tools are never a bad thing I guess. So I went to work and removed some wood so that the action sat correctly in the stock. When this was accomplished though, the bolt was rubbing on the cutout in the stock, so I had to remove some material there. I had to keep going back and forth and back and forth to get it in there nicely. Unlike those plug and play stocks you read about on the net, this one took some hours with 80 grit to get the waves out of the wood. It looked like a poorly bondoed car when you looked down the side. So after a lot of sanding I started reading about finishing stocks. I decided I wanted to stain the stock and I like a dark reddish stain, so I looked and found Minwax's Red Mahogany and it looked right so I stained it and it came out DARK. Really dark. So then I went on to finish with Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. One coat to seal the wood, then the rest are just to get it to the level of smooth you want. Wetsanding with 320 then 500 grit and cutting the oil 50/50 with mineral spirits, then wiping off the excess worked well and it was looking pretty damn good. At this point I made a big mistake and followed Birchwood Casey's advice and tried to put a "finish" coat on with my finger. I was doubtful about the idea in the first place, but this is how they say to do it. My instinct was right, this is the most retarded way to try to get a finish coat of anything on a smooth surface I've ever come across. Uneven coating, finger prints no matter how hard I tried to avoid them, etc. Just a bad deal all around. I got that coat done and it came out garishly shiny and looked like a horribly applied varnish job. I showed my wife and she could see I was disappointed, and why. So I sanded down the finish coat with medium steel wool and put another coat of oil on and wiped it clean. By this time the stain was starting to lighten up considerably. One more coat and I thought I was done, but then I Pledged the stock and some very shiny areas still hadn't been knocked down. So one MORE coat and that's where it is at now. The other mistake I made was not putting the recoil pad on until after the stock was done. I ordered up the pad from Midway USA and watched this video on how to install it: I wasn't about to buy a $45 dollar fixture to get the butt pad just right, so I eyeballed it on my sanding disk/belt combo and I think it came out passable. What I SHOULD HAVE DONE was put the butt pad on first, then finished sanding the stock. Before I saw the video (which was after the stock was basically done) I had no idea that I would be sanding the butt pad to shape. As it is if you look close you can see the butt pad doesn't match the end of the stock exactly, and the stock tapers down just a little right before the pad. That's a testament to my crappy woodworking skills. I also had a hard time getting the hard plastic and rubber part of the pads to sand down evenly on the angled section on the bottom of the stock, so there is a little bump there. All in all I'm pretty excited about shooting it. I'm going to see how accurate it is like this, and then if I want more I will consider glass bedding the action. It's a bit weird on this action because there is only one bolt holding it in and it engages into about 2 threads in the bottom of the action. That's how it was designed though and it seemed to shoot pretty well before. I think it came out damn good for a guy who has never really worked with wood at all. I liked the finish and color before I put that stupid finish coat on better, but I guess you can't take it back, and this is still a lot better looking than the very yellow original stock in my opinion. If the buttpad thing really bothers me I can always sand it smooth and redo the finish if I do the glass bedding job.

How are your droop limiters setup? Do you have a turnbuckle to adjust them? I purchased some 3mm cable and clevises, but haven't found tunbuckles to put it all together yet. I was talking to Cary and he has pretty grossly oversized cables and turnbuckles. Nothing wrong with that other than it's more weight...

Get the 280ZXT nuts. They don't need to be peened. Price is cheap on these as I recall. It's just a staked nut.

I get that, I was more interested in that you were running 14's on the back of Kipperman's car. FWIW, my new 12's and Hoosiers are lighter than my previous 8's with Yokohama slicks on them. Those Yokohamas are HEAVY, and the 8's that I bought (Paulsen Racing) were really heavy as well. Each wheel/tire was about 50 lbs. I think the new Diamond Racing Wheels and Hoosier combo is something like 5-8 lbs lighter in the rear. I haven't had a chance to weigh them yet.

Interesting...

I thought you were referring to Kipperman's car. What is he running?

So you're running the 13" Hoosier on a 12" rim? Interestingly, the 23.5 x 12 x 15 isn't listed on their site. Looks like the 13" calls for a 14" rim: https://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm I think with 13's and 14's you start running into a situation where normal tire shop equipment might not be able to cope with the rim width. Has that been a problem for anyone running the wide rears? They had to check when I had the 12's installed, but it turned out they could do it...

Oops. Forgot that the GY was intended for a 14" rim. That must be really floppy feeling. Not sure what the Hoosiers are supposed to be mounted on, but I can say that they look good on a 12 in terms of sidewall deflection.