JMortensen

There is camber thrust, but I don't think that is your problem, and stiffer springs should reduce camber thrust, so it should be better now than it was before. It really just sounds like bumpsteer to me. I'd suggest you try measuring it again. Maybe jack the chassis up and down with a jackstand under the control arm like I did. It lets the dial indicators stay stationary in terms of up and down movement and just measure the horizontal and toe changes. Also measure in the area of the suspension that you will be driving in; don't measure it at full droop.

Do you have a list of tech items they'll be inspecting? Usually at autox it's pretty basic stuff, seatbelts, helmet, no major leaks, no broken lug studs, etc. A big one on a Z would be the battery hold down. No bungee cords, it needs to be BOLTED down. If your hold down is broken, you better figure something out between now and then. If you don't have a list, email the people putting it on and ask for one. In the years that I've autoxed I've only seen a very few cars get turned away for not passing tech. One thing I'd look into is whether or not g forces are going to mess with that 4 barrel carb or not. Your tires might not produce enough grip to cause a problem with the carb, but it might be something you run into as you get faster.

What you're describing sounds like bumpsteer to me. Mine was most apparent going up a short rise at Buttonwillow. Hit that rise and the suspension would compress and the car would do a sharp jerk to the right, almost emergency lane change like. I adjusted out the bumpsteer and it didn't twitch at all afterwards. I checked mine with a stand and dial indicators on the front and rear of the rotor. Then I jacked the chassis up and down and watched the dial indicators for differences front and rear, and moved the LCA pivot up (slotted crossmember) to fix. Did you use a bumpsteer gauge to check yours? If not, how did you adjust it? You should be in BETTER shape for having removed the camber bushings, because that should make your tie rods and control arms the same length.

http://qa1.thomasnet.com/keyword/3-piece-precision-5/xm-rod-ends-2?&plpver=1001&pagesize=25&pagenum=1&filter=1&keyword=xm&key=product&keycateg=3001458&keyprod=3001488&SchType=2&keyType=P&Primary=1 From this page, the XM bearings 10/12 size (3/4 shank, 5/8 hole) have a radial load rating of 31,680. The -10 size (5/8) have a radial load rating of 17,955 lbs. I had found previously on the QA1 site that the XM has a rather high spec for axial loading of 30%, I think most teflon lined 3 piece bearings have a rating of 10-20%, but couldn't find any spec on their site just now. Assuming 30% is right, that means my bearings can handle 9504 lbs, the smaller -10 bearing can handle 5386.5 lbs. As far as threads in bending, ANY of the control arms in this thread has threads in bending. The worst offender appears to be the MM arms which seem (judging by the pictures) to have 2 or 3 inches of thread in bending.

I'm using a 3/4" rod end. Most of these designs are using 5/8".

Don't American snipers mostly carry Remington 700s? Not exactly the highest tech rifle, but sniping is about being able to hit the target, and a 700 can do that just fine...

The front struts turn, the rears don't. Having the bearing in there won't make a difference.

I ran a mid 80's Nissan truck cable. It even had a nice bushing thing at the end. It was pretty easy to mod the stock pedal to work with the bushing. Ran me about $10 from a JY, and I just had to make a bracket that bolted to the top of the center carb to hold the cable and then I bought a Mikuni cable end to hook it all up.

What about the second yellowbird video in the first link? That car obviously had the bumpsteer issues dealt with and had a proper alignment and although the guy didn't do an entire flat out lap he did some sections very fast and without all the sliding around. The first yellowbird video is a great example of a driver with huge gonads wrestling a powerful ill-handling car around the ring. It's not a video that shows you how to set your car up to go fast. It's a video that shows you how to go fast despite having an evil handling car. You're right about the videos I've linked to all having traction control. There are plenty if you want to look showing cars without any traction control. I wonder if that 956 had it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M11GOVfA50

Brute force and huge hp is fast. If that car weren't so loose and didn't have so much bumpsteer it would be fastER. I bet the second yellowbird would be faster in the hands of the same driver. Not to say that the car control display isn't impressive, it is. I don't think it's the fastest way around though. Look at how little drama there is in these other clips of FASTER cars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoxlpZjotMI

Can't speak to that at all. It's a badass car though, and fast as ♥♥♥♥.

I've used the same set of rockers on three cams, never did anything to them. You don't need to break in the cam, at least I've never broken in any of mine. Just get the wipe pattern right and run it. That's my take, I'm sure you'll find lots who disagree.

The one in the second video certainly seemed a lot better sorted.

On mine the strut just needed a shim, it wasn't about the strut shifting. The manufacturers try to make the strut inserts and strut housings the right length, but if they're off a little bit, then you might have this problem. It's not an assembly error, other than the assembler didn't know that it was an error and add a shim. The thing to note is that the strut insert should be fit tightly in the housing, sitting on the bottom of the housing and the shoulder of the nut should not tighten all the way down to the housing. You want a thread or two showing on the nut, as that will tell you that the nut is not bottoming on the strut tube.

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40502

Thanks for that. I'm right with you on the sprung hub puck disks too. Never understood why anyone would buy a sprung puck clutch, the puck clutches are so grabby they're just going to annihilate those springs...

An armed society is a polite society...

Uh... what? I haven't actually refinanced, but I thought when you did that you paid the loans on the vehicle, boat, etc, and just had a higher principle owed on the mortgage. They're not giving you a 30 year car loan, they're giving you a home loan that is (for instance) 15K more than it would otherwise have been. The problem with the recent refi's is that the market prices were so inflated that people could borrow more than the house was worth literally and then when the market corrected they owed a LOT more than the house was worth. For example, if you have a $600K house and car loans, etc and you refi'd for $700K and then the home value dropped to $400K, now you owe $300K more than the house is worth. People were leveraging themselves way beyond what they should have because they had the "knowledge" that the market would just keep going up and they could refi again in a couple years and pay off what they owed. When the market corrected, suddenly they couldn't refi themselves out of a jam anymore. The other deal was the ARMs where people had interest only payments, and sometimes they weren't even paying all of the interest. So again, if you have a $400K house and you aren't even paying the interest on the loan for the first 5 years or so, then at the end of the 5 years you might owe $450K (for example). At the end of the 5 years your payments bump up to interest plus principle, but now the loan is for $450K instead of $400K, and in the meantime the house value might have gone down to $300K. Nobody will refi a $450K loan on a $300K house, so again, up ♥♥♥♥ creek without a paddle. If I have this wrong, please tell me. This is how I understand the refi and ARM issues to have played out.

If your nose is completely plugged up, I don't think a neti pot is going to help much. It will get some loose mucus out of your nose, sure, but if you're plugged up that bad it's pretty much impossible to get the water up there in the first place. What I wouldn't do is really put a lot of pressure behind it if you're using the squeeze bottle. If the water doesn't flow through smoothly, then don't do it. The only thing that helps when I'm that congested is Afrin. Afrin is pretty addictive, so don't overuse. I told my sis-in-law about it and warned her about my uncle who was addicted to it for years, and still I think she's addicted to it now, so take it seriously. Afrin is what the ENT docs use to clear you up before they scope your sinuses, if you've been unlucky enough to have that done. I have used Afrin to clear up my nose so that I can do the neti at the peak of allergy season. Again, though, it is HIGHLY addictive.

That is a NACA duct. It is for getting air INTO the engine compartment.

That's what I'm using and where I got it too.

You could do a poor man's toe adjuster. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89111&page=3 There are lots of pictures around of various different links. Gary Savage had a group buy, you might try to find that as I think it had pictures, ZR8ED has one made from angle iron, there's a bunch more in the photo album. It's really not hard to make one.

The 16# unit was aluminum. My recollection is from 10+ years ago, but I was really shocked at how heavy it was and that stuck in my mind. If it were 13 lbs I would have bought it. I'm definitely not going to say that I'm right and you're wrong, but it would be nice if someone had a real number in a catalog or something as opposed to either of our recollections...

Call Wilwood and ask.

I'm not arguing your point, but your facts. I was in the market for a flywheel in a weird time when Tilton and HKS had stopped making L series flywheels and there were no Fidanzas or AZC or anything else on the market. I looked at the Centerforce as it was the ONLY option and didn't buy it because it was 16 lbs and I didn't want to spend $450 and still have a 16 lb flywheel. Whose memory is bad? Mine or yours?