JMortensen

Based on my first hand experience, I don't think this is correct. I get what you're saying and I agree with your logic, but I think you're wrong specifically in regards to the aluminum vs AZC flywheel. The Kameari if it has holes drilled around the outside will probably be quicker to rev than an aluminum flywheel. I don't know what Tony was talking about. I can't see how any 15 lb iron flywheel could match a 10 lb aluminum one, I don't see how you could take enough meat off of the outside to make that happen. I vaguely recall the thread you're referring to and I think he was trying to make the point that where you take the material off is as important as how much you take off, not specifically saying x has less PMOI than y. You might be able to turn the AZC or Kameari once or twice, if they weren't in bad shape. Also if they aren't in bad shape you can run them without turning them. My friend with the Tilton has been through I'm guessing 6 or 7 clutches with his flywheel and Comp Roadster pp, and he just keeps reusing the flywheel and pp, and replaces the clutch disk whenever the engine is out of the car. No problems with that yet... If you're drag racing you had best get something serviceable.

About the bushings, I'm sure polyurethane and urethane are the same thing and they may have gotten better since Chassis Engineering was written, but I have other reasons for not wanting to use them. The big one is stiction. Spherical bearings have much less stiction and if the suspension can move more freely it will actually feel like there is less spring rate in the car over bumps. You'll feel every pebble in the road, but the suspension will react to them all as well. I drove my car with sphericals on the front LCAs and TC rods and camber plates for tens of thousands of miles with many many passengers and never heard a complaint even when I took my 70+ year old dad for a ride. What made that Aston Martin stiff was the stiff springs and shocks, not the heims joints in my opinion.

My impression has been that the aluminum flywheels rev faster than most of the steel ones. I have the AZC billet steel at 12 lbs, and I can say for sure that my friend's Tilton 10 lb flywheel on his 510 revs noticeably faster. So does my other friend's HKS 10 lb (nodular?) iron flywheel. I wouldn't get hung up on the thickness of the material, because it is aluminum and you're comparing it to steel which will be heavier for a given thickness. I'd go for the lightest weight you can find. Check out MONZTER's setup. He posted pics a couple days back of his light flywheel with dual 5.5" clutch. That is a fast revving engine. You might get acceptable longevity with a dual 7.5" clutch...

I'm already in the "maintenance" phase where I only have to go once every three weeks (started them last fall after allergy season was over for me). I doubled up on the earlier phases so that I could hit the maintenance dose before allergy season hit. I think that means that the shots should be as effective as they're going to be already.

I have REALLY bad nasal issues. Had my nose broken 4 times (5 if you count the surgery to fix it--and no I didn't break it in fights I just like to smash my face into things like trees, steering wheels, the ground, etc) and despite the surgery I have a badly deviated septum. On top of that I have horrible seasonal allergies to grass and weeds. Anyway, I use the squeeze bottle instead of the neti pot, but I too can testify that the thing works. It doesn't make my allergies go away, far from it, but it does reduce the severity enough to make it well worth the effort. This year I'm on allergy shots, so we'll see how that goes. Normally from about March to July is my really bad time of year, I just started taking my allergy meds 4 days ago, so the shots seem to be helping so far, although we had a brutal winter so it may just be that spring takes a little longer to kick into gear and I get just as miserable later on. I'll know soon enough...

The others are replicating what is on the car from the factory and improving on the H arm by making toe adjustable, etc. The A arm design fundamentally changes the way the strut gets loaded and the way twisting forces work on the strut and the arm. The A arm and toe link is a superior design.

That was my experience too. I even tried the dealer with no luck.

Maybe, but it would be a hell of a lot of fun before it turned sour.

If you do what you're planning you'll run into other issues, like the tire hitting the inside of the fender. By the time you tub it and relocate the strut tops and modify the struts themselves, you could have swapped in short/long arm suspension or backhalved the car and put in a solid axle. If you want the max clearance for stock wheel wells, you don't need to relocate the strut. You just need coilovers and smaller 2.5 inch springs.

The only way I could find those stupid clamps was to buy a whole boot kit. I ended up using some stainless steel straps from Harbor Freight. They're not crimp on, but I got mine on pretty tight with a pair of pliers. I don't see the straps on their website anymore, but that doesn't mean that they don't have them.

The plate in the ad is WAY bigger than it needs to be. Compare it to blueovalz's and you'll see that exhausting the under hood air is not a problem with motor plates. I like your idea to exhaust the radiator air into the wheel wells and will probably do something similar sans the squirrel cage fans.

Rigidly mounts the engine so you don't waste torque flexing the mounts instead of driving the wheels. Uses the engine block as a chassis stiffener. I thought I had more but that's all I'm coming up with right now...

Different ring gear ID means different parts. Theoretically the LSD doesn't care if it is installed on a 190 or a 200mm OD ring gear. That's why I was checking...

Radical SR8. 455 hp, 1433 lbs, 3g in the corners. Yeah, that'd do it.

Why would you use those? They're prone to leaking, and you may have an interference issue. Go get the ones this thread is about, then you'll be sure not to have any problems.

Wire cloth is common on race cars. chicken wire and barbeque grill mesh is common on ricers.

Not familiar with this. Are you saying that R200 carriers do fit in the R190?

If you're talking about the Ford Fel-Pro seals, you should be good to go. Stockers would be iffy. It could be that the ISKY retainers provide enough clearance, but you should check it closely if you try to run them.

I'm 99.999999% sure that a H190 detroit locker can be installed in an R190 diff. I've ridden in a 510 that had a detroit R190 installed. The problem is that the RX7 doesn't have an H190 so far as I can tell (it's listed as 7" which is close to 180mm) and I've never heard anyone claim that R180 parts fit the H190 or vice versa.

If the shoe fits...

Probably a loose gland nut, or the gland nut tightened against the strut housing before clamping down on the strut insert. I had that problem with a Tokico Illumina when I first installed them in my Z. I had to add a washer under the strut to shim it up so that the gland nut tightened down on the insert instead of bottoming on the housing. Bump steer spacers only require two bolts per side to install. You'll need to reset your toe afterwards. You can do this yourself with a tape measure. Maybe have a buddy hold the wheel dead straight while you make adjustments.

Ideally you want the front of the tire covered. With wider tires none of the usual airdams does this. Most of them don't even cover the front of the tire without flares. It's because of the body line where the fender and valance meet. That line slopes inward towards the center of the car, and making an airdam that fixes that problem would look really odd. Most continue the line and make the exposed tire problem worse. Only a few of the body kits get it right. Reaction Research does, as do the IMSA kits.

It's a lot easier to wear gloves here in Seattle than it was in SoCal. In SoCal I'd get so hot wearing them that I never did. Here they actually help keep me warm, so I rarely go without.

Thanks John. Good tip on not clearancing all the way up the stock. Thanks. You mentioned taping the action screws oversize. I assume that means wrap tape around the bolt so that the hole in the fiberglass would be larger than necessary when the bolt is removed. One thing I neglected to mention in the first post is that I saw a youtube video online where a guy C-clamped the action into the barrel, and that seemed like a much better way to get the action firmly pressed into the glass, especially with my .22 which really just has one bolt holding the action in. The other screws attach the trigger guard to wood of the stock. I guess some people use the screw to hold the action in the barrel too, but with only one screw it seems like the clamps are the way to go. I'm planning on using the old stock to teach my kid to shoot and it does have some sentimental value. This is a .22, so no recoil lug to worry about this time, but it it goes well I might do it again on my .243 which was never quite as accurate as I wanted it to be.

I'm looking into the specifics of glass bedding, thinking I want to try it myself. I have a new stock coming for my first gun, a Remington 581. The original stock was cut down to fit me when I was 5, and it's so short it's pretty much impossible to use anymore. The stock I purchased for it is not 100% finished. It's a "98% semi-finished" stock, and my understanding is that I will need to clearance the stock for the action (chisel, sandpaper, ???). I read one site that suggests relieving the stock just enough to get a nice tight fit on the receiver, then I started thinking that didn't seem like a very good way to do it because you'd have potentially uneven tight spots which I would think would throw accuracy off, so I started looking into glass bedding tech. So far what I've found: 1. Several different methods are used and nobody seems to think there is a "best" method. They include: Bed action, free float barrel. Bed action and the first couple inches of the barrel. Bed action and entire barrel. Bed action (possibly with the first couple inches of the barrel) and an inch or two at the end of the stock. Some theories about bedding: Free floated barrel is more consistent when the barrel gets hot because the hot barrel reponds differently to pressure at the end of the stock if that method is used. On the other hand if you have a thin barrel a bit of pressure at the end of the stock helps to stop vibration in the barrel making it more accurate from shot to shot, but less accurate for many shots in a row as the barrel heats up and responds differently to the pressure. With regards to setting pressure at the end of the barrel, I've seen one site that suggests letting the glass at the end of the stock harden with a 5 lb weight hanging from the stock. When cured and the weight is removed, this should produce a 5 lb pressure on the end of the barrel. 2. There are a ton of different fiberglass compounds to use including many specifically made for the job, but people use just about every type of epoxy or filler you could imagine. Makes me wonder if I could use the West System epoxy with one of their fillers, like their high density filler. I really like their epoxy as it doesn't reek and has been easy for me to use as a complete novice at bodywork. 3. Some sites talk about packing the holes for the magazine, etc with playdoh to prevent the glass getting in there. I haven't seen any address what to do about the holes where the action bolts to the stock. I suppose you have to just redrill these after the fiberglass hardens. It's a simple question, but I haven't seen it answered. 4. One thing that seems a little backwards to me is the idea of bedding down the barrel a couple of inches, but not keeping that front line of fiberglass uniform. It seems to me that the end of the fiberglass would need to be absolutely straight in order to uniformly support the barrel. Maybe I'm making too much out of this. I like the idea of glass a couple inches down the barrel, but can't figure out how to get that straight line without potentially screwing up the whole bedding job. Maybe excess could be removed with a dremel afterward, but I'd be scared of slipping and gouging the stock. I suppose some tape on the stock might be all that is necessary to prevent damage... Anyway just looking for feedback on any of the above and perhaps some firsthand experiences. I know we have some hardcore gun nuts here, hoping someone can help me out.