JMortensen

1. Year of motor/mods 2006 L33 5.3 aluminum motor w/stock LS6 heads 27K miles on it. 2. Tranny TBD. Thinking T56 at the moment. 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts. I'll fabricate my own. Considering motor plates. 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, including fuel, wiring, etc. Trying to decide whether to go carb or LS1 injection 5. Date you started on the project, date finished Heh. Started about 5 years ago, probably another year to go. 6. Other car mods (suspension, brakes, etc.) You name it it's modified in some way.

I thought the single adjustable "yellows" were cheaper than that. Could be that I'm just not up on my pricing. I think John Coffey could give you a lead, or try shox.com.

The balls are loaded in one direction from torque from the ring gear. Then as the wheels differentiate the balls ride up the ramps, and I think we've determined that the torque force acts on the shallow ramps on accel and the steep ramps on decel to give a 1.5 way effect. I still think this torque on the ramps is going to try and force the drums into the case, and it won't be constant as the balls have to travel down the steep side of the ramp on one side. Maybe that is counteracted by the ball going UP the shallow ramp on the other side. That seems like it would want to cause pressure on one side then the other of the case. That's the part I'm having a hard time with, is how do these balls which are captured and must remain equidistant remain in the tracks on the shallow and steep ramps at the same time. It does seem like it would oddly limit how the drums can move, so I think I see where John is going with the dragging wheels bit. One thing I think I was missing was the speed at which the action happens. In retrospect, I don't think the differentiation action is going to be very fast. Maybe one of you math geniuses could figure out the length of a 180 degree arc on the inner and outer tracks of a Z's wheelbase with a say 50 ft radius and a 300 ft radius and we could determine the number of revolutions made by the drums.

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=6

240 should have scalloped hubs. 280 hubs are round where the wheel bolts to the hub.

That is VERY reasonable, although you can get the coilovers and springs from GC for $399. It's all this little stuff (and camber plates too) that adds up. If you think that this is not work the extra money, read some threads on replacing wheel bearings or pulling spindle pins. They're a bitch and a half to swap out and the bearings are freakin expensive.

My point in sharing that site was that you can get Bilsteins or Konis for about $100 or $150 per corner, Ground Control coilovers for $100 per corner, and section the struts yourself or haves someone do it for you and save a couple grand and get a better end result. All you have to do is find someone who will section the struts for you.

I'm not sure about it. I wonder if we can get Flexicoker to run the idea past some of his bosses. He does work at Taylor Race Engineering after all...

You might try and download a Factory Service Manual from carfiche.com. Even a 280Z or ZX manual would work since the autos came with the R180.

I just can't imagine this thing working without massive side loads on the carrier. Maybe they just make the carrier beefy enough to deal with it. It's a bizarre idea. Looks like this one has no clutches either, just uses the ramps to get the lockup.

There is a file in the download section that converts one to the other.

They're pretty damn close. I had mine set up so that I could jack the suspension through about 3" of movement and not have any bumpsteer. I could have jacked it farther, but I figured that was good enough. If you do the JTR mod and move the LCA pivot out, then I think you might have more trouble.

Something to read before buying Tein: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

The bump steer spacers do not adjust bump steer. They only adjust what part of the bump steer curve your car drives in. This is because adding the spacer doesn't change the relationship between the inner pivot and the ball joint. If it did it would affect bump steer. Moving the inner pivot does change the relationship and that's why you can tune out bump steer with the inner LCA pivot but you cannot with bump steer spacers. When I confused myself on this issue, Black Beaut made up a very good .gif showing the relationship between the spacer and the pivot change. It's in the bumpsteer FAQ: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886

I never had a problem there. I had stock location TC rods with my LCA pivots raised to eliminate bumpsteer. What this would do is raise the roll center without increasing anti-dive. Without the pivot moved you have low roll center and the same amount of anti-dive. I see no harm in adjusting one without the other, and it certainly didn't cause any bind in the suspension. In fact my new setup has both slotted so I can adjust the RC and anti-dive independently.

Your video didn't work for me. You could see the parts, but no rotation. I really don't think that these drum pieces act like the spiders. If nothing else I would think that different wheel speeds would tend to want to walk the drums back and forth as they resisted the ramps, and that shaking back and forth would probably be a good way to spit out a CV axle or damage the carrier. If I'm wrong I'd like to know but I really think there have to be spiders inside the drums. Also I'm 99.9% sure the shaft part that you have sticking out the side is an assembly aid, not part of the LSD. There is a Dana LSD called a Trak-Lok (real POS by the way) and to reassemble it you have to insert a bolt through the spiders to compress the springs that preload the clutch stack in order to fit it into the housing. Once installed the bolt is removed and the clutches are preloaded. This diff looks like it has a stack of belleville springs in the middle of the drums (which makes the spider gears even more of a mystery) and the bolt that you've shown there is just used to compress the drums together so that the case can be reassembled. At least that's my guess from the pictures.

I think you're talking about bumpsteer spacers here. Motorsport Auto has them in 3/4" and 1" thicknesses. I want to say that you can get one piece 1.5" tall spacers for 510s. I'm sure you could find them if you looked around a bit. Grade 8 metric bolts? Are you sure? Never seen metric bolts with SAE temper. Should be grade 8.8. Might also be the wrong bolts. In any event I think grade 8 rougly equates to 10.9 metric. http://www.warburtons.com.au/resources/Tech_Pages01.pdf You seem to be wanting to stack them to equate the size of the spacer to the amount you've sectioned from the tube. I think this is unnecessary and will probably cause interference issues unless you're running large diameter rims. Other options here are redrilling the pivot point on the crossmember, or even slotting the crossmember if you want to adjust bumpsteer and not just adjust what part of the stock bumpsteer curve you're running in.

That's what I thought; the side gears are inside the housings with the tracks in them. So what we're missing is the spider gears. How does that bit work?

Agreed and it looks like they have a shallower ramp for accel and a steeper one for decel, basically giving a 1.5 way type action. I'm also a bit confused by the lack of spider gears. The unit looks like it only has 4 drive clutches, so at 2 per side that may be a weakness. Big torque may strip the tabs off the clutches just like it does on the 300ZXT diffs...

I'd like to understand how it works. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

If you're basing that comment on the JNJ guys' wheelstand picture, they use a welded diff, not an LSD. The 300ZX diff has a bad rep for stripping the clutches above 300 hp and then functioning as an open diff, but they only had the one active clutch disk per side. I haven't heard numbers for the Power Brute LSD, but handling 500+ wouldn't surprise me at all.

The story from former member "Mike" was that the factory in Japan burned down. Mike had tried to organize a group buy on these units and it ended up falling through. I wouldn't give up though, it could be that Mike handled the group buy so badly that they just gave him a line of BS to get rid of him.

What are the authorities supposed to do?

79 Mustang 4 cylinder (pinto with Mustang bodywork) Smurf blue with smurf blue vinyl and wood grain plastic trim. Ran on 3 cylinders most of its short life with me. I bought it from the high school auto shop for $510. God that thing sucked...

There was one mention a while back of the strut inserts being the same diameter. I think it was a for sale ad for some Bilstein shocks. I'd be really careful and double check that before ordering anything. As far as the coilover parts go, they're pretty generic. I know there are two "usual" sizes for the threaded sleeves. Shouldn't be hard to figure out if the Subaru stuff fits. In fact, this thread probably gives you all the info you'd need to check it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142366