JMortensen

If air in the rail is the problem, then it seems to me a simple surge tank is the easiest fix, and would probably end up 1/10th the cost of the ATL solution.

Just got back from CA and shoveled some snow. Apparently my house had 31" of snow at the highest point. It still has about 6-8 inches of slush, and it's supposed to snow again over the next couple days. When I was in CA I went for a walk and got hot. I think it was 77 degrees in Agoura. WTF am I doing here again???

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119990

Assuming the same wheel manufacturer, and even if the two wheels were the same weight, the moment arm of the larger wheel will be longer because of the rim's construction at the outermost end. In other words, it's not the spokes that are heavy. Its the "rim of the rim" and the drop center that weighs a lot. Tires are heavy so using a lower profile tire may save more weight than using a smaller rim, but if you compare equal profile tires (again, same for same) then I don't see how the larger rim could possibly have an advantage. The larger rim has the drop center further from the hub, and the tire has its mass further from the hub as well. Contrast that to the lower cg that one gets from running a smaller tire and resultant lower amount of weight transfer, and I think the advantages of a smaller rim/tire combo are complete. Less weight, smaller moment arm, lower cg, less weight transfer. The cost of all of these benefits is the smaller (shorter) tread patch, and the limitation as to the size of brakes that will fit inside the smaller wheel. You see the same discussions with flywheels, people talk about a heavier flywheel acting the same as a lighter one because the weight is removed from the "inertia ring". John also points out that the rim and tire choice makes a huge difference as well, so that makes this a theoretical and not so much a practical discussion.

Do you think you're putting any twist in the chassis while you're welding the frame rails on? That would be my main concern with what you're doing, although I have no idea how much of a problem it would be in practice.

Just making sure!

Are you measuring ID right at the top? I seem to remember the 240 strut tube opens up at the top and is thicker walled from about an inch down. Not sure if the 280 does the same. I suppose you'd need an inside mic to get the ID down in the main part of the tube...

If you search "tokico eibach" the first 7 or 8 hits are directly related to your question.

Looks about the same out here, you guys might have an inch or two on our snowfall out here. The wife's Subaru couldn't make it out of our private road yesterday, but my GMC 1500 still was able to cruise right up the hill. 5500 lbs + a bed full of snow helps in these conditions I guess.

Here in western WA we don't normally get more than about 4" at a time. Got a foot on the ground now and we're supposed to get another 8-12 inches over the next few days. They were calling for 30-50 mph winds too, but they seem to have backed off on that part. I can only imagine how many trees would have gone down. Glad I got that generator last year...

I think you're actually getting into anti-Ackermann with those.

And what, section the housing?

I wouldn't beat yourself up too much. "Very cheap" is in the eye of the beholder, and it looks to me like they were talking about a GForce T5 for $2550. http://www.astroperformance.com/product_info.php/products_id/531 I suppose I could be wrong, but I didn't see anything else on their website, and I've never heard of anything else that allows those kinds of power levels out of a T5...

No problem. Donate $5 to Hybrid Z instead though...

Totally different suspension systems. None of the parts like springs or struts swap over.

If all you're doing is exhaust work or alignments, 4 post hoists make a lot of sense. I'll take a 2 post hoist any day of the week. It's so much easier to pull transmissions or work on suspension or get at the bottom of the engine on a 2 post hoist.

1. No 2. Yes. Search "CFDF" and you'll find tons of info. I picked out a few from the first page of results for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96416 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96821 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102782 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91761 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95805 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=493676

Pacific Industrial Supply might have something for you. They have all kinds of scrap metal: http://www.pacificindustrial.com/index2.html

I would think $7-800 would be a good buy for someone. It would probably go higher if it was sold on ebay. 4.11 R200s came in 200SXT's, $750 is way high for the 4.11 geared open diff IMO. They aren't THAT rare.

$400 for a 4.11 with a limited slip? I'll take 10...

You should use straps on the hatch, that will pull the Lexan into shape a bit. Quarter glass shouldn't matter, don't do the door glass unless you never want to roll the window down. Just like the windshield wipers, if you roll the window down and back up it's going to be scratched up pretty badly.

How about sticking this thread, admins? Seems like we have people who keep asking about subaru lsds who can't seem to find it.

It's in the thread he linked to. The output splines on the carrier are wrong, so you end up having to use the Subaru CVs.

I deg to biffer Here is a short tire on an autox Z: That is a 23" tall tire on a 13 x 13 rim. The front tires that go with it are 20" tall. The 15 x 11.5" x 23.5" FA slicks I'm going to run are also quite a bit shorter than the 18 in question. For an 18 its a short tire, I'll agree with you there. I'm still convinced that an 18 isn't the way to go, especially on an S30.

Looks tall to me...