JMortensen

Try harder. Try looking in the DRIVETRAIN section.

I think you misunderstood Brady. If you hooked the crankcase vent to the valve cover, you'd have a sealed engine again, which is a no no. You could run the tube from the valve cover to the catch can and then plug the block vent. Personally, I wouldn't do that. There is a baffle in the valve cover and I don't know that you could get all of the pressure out that way. For welding a fitting on, take it someplace and have them figure it out. All you need is the tube, a flat piece of metal, and a steel fitting. You could for example use a hacked up heater hose fitting like the one that goes around the back of the head, or the block fitting that connects to the heater core.

The RX7 diff looks relatively small, at least in the 1st gen models. I'd guess smaller than 7", but it's been years since I've seen one out of the car. You might check the size of the ring gear online to verify my statment. Gearing is low as I recall, so that might make it less compatible with a V8 conversion. As far as the weight is concerned, 2350 for a stock 240Z is tough to beat. For a race car, I'd go with the lightest weight car I could get, so that is going to be a 240. The 3rd gen RX7 has some really good suspension and especially for a driver, I'd probably be inclined to go that way. You should also consider rust. Won't be hard to find a rust free 3rd gen RX7. It will be much harder to find a rust free Z car, and fixing rust is time consuming and burns up $$$.

I'll ask him for you and PM you.

My boss in San Luis Obispo had Lasik. He used to wear glasses when he was driving, etc, but didn't need them to work. After Lasik, he could see just fine when driving, but could no longer see the computer screen at work and had to get glasses for that. He wasn't too happy because he now had to wear glasses 8 hours a day, where previously it was mostly only when driving.

Weld a plate to the end of the tube and then weld a steel fitting to the plate. How much more information do you need?

Well, it was UNBELIEVABLY bad. I guess I should have figured... So where did the pics come from? This was someone's failed abortion of a cage, I assume.

You should edit your post and use the direct link so that we don't have to wait for the Imageshack page to load to see the full size picture. I'm guessing that they either send the same rings for the 280 and 240, or you got the wrong ones. I had the older style where they sent a big flat washer, and they were similarly loose. You could always just buy a piece of the right tube and cut it into sections and weld it on. That's what I did when I transferred everything to my new struts.

Ouch. Cut it out and start over, or consider paying someone to do this job for you. Your pipe fitting skills look like they need work, and the welds are really not sufficient. Your welds also need to be all the way around every tube, which is part of what makes building a cage such a PITA. Your welds also look very bird poopy, makes me wonder if you're using a stick welder or something. When you have a plate like you do in the back next to the shock tower, connect to the shock tower, don't almost connect to it. You only need .100" thick plate. Looks like you used 1/4" or 3/8" there. I can't tell what kind of tube you're using, but I'd guess that it is wrong too. I'm sorry to say it, but this one is a complete do over. Cut that thing up and practice practice practice before you start again.

You can move the plug wires around on the distributor cap so that the rotor points to the right spot for #1 and you can adjust the timing to get it right. The "correct" way to fix is to pull the oil pump and adjust the position of the distributor drive shaft. If you do go to fix it the right way it's much easier with a second person.

Last time I swapped them out I was told that the price of the tanks has doubled in the last year or so. I believe it, as the other steel I've purchased recently was also really expensive. I think the regulator is probably worth it. The regulator that came with my Miller welder lasted exactly one usage, it basically leaked straight out of the box. My replacement was about $100 and still functions correctly years later.

One way is to use the stock hose. It necks down to about 5/8" if I recall.

They're both L28 engines, but the later motor has dished pistons and the early one has flat tops. You can get about 10.5:1 compression by running the flat tops with the early head, but that is really high compression for pump gas and a lot of people running that combo have to back off the timing to prevent pinging. To make it simple, the parts swap back and forth, but you have a head with a big chamber and flat top pistons on one and a dished piston and smaller chamber on the other.

The airdam works fine all by itself. See the Rebello ad that pops up a lot in the top right corner of the screen and shows John Thomas's FP championship winning Z. The rear bumper treatment is going to be weird looking I think because it has a similar skirt treatment. I'd bet that a fiberglass 240 rear bumper with the stock rear valance would be the best bet there.

I see you are correct. Sorry about that, just trying to keep the thread on target.

Got you covered Mike. I started a new photobucket album which I don't intend to use, just to host these images. I then fixed all the links, and also posted more pictures which were on Mike's site but were not posted the first time around. If there are more pictures you would like to send to me, I'd be happy to post them all. You have my email.

Use the lowest octane you can that doesn't ping. There is no benefit to using more octane than you need, it's more expensive, and it can actually hurt power output.