JMortensen

I'm guessing that recommendation is for an ITS engine, correct me if I'm wrong. The problem with the stock springs is that they coil bind at about .470" or so lift, depending on how deep the valves seat in the head, how far the seats have been cut, etc. I think that if you're using a cam with more lift than stock that allowance for 25 hrs might be reduced. From my experience the Schneider valve springs do not have excessive seat pressures and are relatively cheap. I'm not a big fan of their cams, but their valve springs are just peachy. There is an interference issue with the Schneider retainers hitting the valve stem seal at lifts over about .480, but Speeder was nice enough to figure that one out for us, and there are cheap readily available Ford seals that will allow lifts probably in the .600 range without interference. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90825

Shims are shims and you don't need to use Nissan shims to get the diff set correctly. Cutting your own works fine. I would think that someone needing shims might go to a gear shop and find something close. MikeC has suggested that a 12 bolt chevy diff has shims that are pretty close in size, so that might be a first place to look, but most shops will have a big pegboard wall with different size and thickness shims, so it shouldn't be too hard to find something that works.

Hey, whaddya know!!!

This kind of ♥♥♥♥ always screws me up, so here's what I did. Saved your pic, opened it in Windows Picture Viewer, and flipped it 180 degrees. When you do this you can see that the gear patterns go the opposite way, so the side gears will drive the worms in the opposite direction.

Flip the side gears and flip the helicals. That's it as I recall.

Another thought: If I'm right about flipping the gears, that may explain why people are wasting the washers. Instead of them getting squeezed on decel where the lockup is less or none, they're getting hit on accel... Flip the side gears and the worm gears around and it should work the opposite way. Assuming you have it right and it is squeezing the gears together under accel of course...

I think the strut there doesn't really have anything to do with the suspension angles, caster, camber, etc. and also wouldn't affect scrub. That strut is just bolted in with a pivot at each end, so it moves independently of the upright (spindle). The spindle's angle is controlled by the upper and lower ball joints and so the control arms are doing the work of setting and controlling angles.

Fair enough. The pullers work pretty good for saving the pins. There is a guy on http://www.classiczcars.com who sells them, I think he might be here too but I'm pretty sure his handle over there is v8z. I had to cut one and never was able to get the old pin out of the strut housing. I did 3 others with a puller and had no problems.

ARP doesn't make a 12 x 1.25 stud though, if I remember correctly. You can get the Camaro studs with the 12 x 1.5 threads from ARP.

You sound like you know what you're up against but just to be sure... you have read about the spindle pin and what a PITA it is to remove?

Found some info on the torsen site: http://www.torsen.com/products/products.htm This one looks roughly analogous to the OBX: http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2R.htm

I'm having a hard time with this, and I'll tell you why. Dana's helical LSD the True-trac comes in a "front" and "rear" version for the Dana 30 (front might be for a Jeep front diff, rear might be for a Volvo sedan). The difference is that the gears are flipped around, and that's the only difference. In fact, I've flipped them for a customer who needed one right away when I sold diff parts. The lockup on the diff should come from the side gears and helical gears driving into the ends of the case and also from the teeth of the helicals wearing on the case too. I had a .pdf that had breakaway pictures and showed torque vectors and all sorts of cool stuff, but I no longer have it and can't find it online. I think Drax240z posted one for the torsen LSD as well. I did quote part of both .pdfs in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93879 Here are a couple of excerpts: In the Torsen, the gears pushed on each other during decel. They pushed on the case on accel. On the truetrac they push on the case on accel and don't get loaded on decel.

Take the block and pistons to a machine shop with a real hone.They can hone the block out exactly to a particular size. If you try to do this with a ball hone I don't see how you could possibly keep the bores square (you may have already known this part, I don't know). There are specs for piston clearance, and you should be able to specify with the machinist whether you want the bores "tight" or "loose". Loose makes more power but doesn't last as long. According to "How to Rebuild" .002" is standard. .009 is max allowable, but that is probably for cast pistons. Forged has different specs, I think they run tighter, or they end up with a lot of piston slap. Each bore should be fitted to a particular piston.

Search google or yahoo for whatever size coilovers you are buying. 2.5" coilover springs fit any 2.5" coilover. They're flat on the ends and the ID of the spring is uniform. That's all you need.

That sketch is Terry's. I don't think he ever actually fabbed that up though. In fact, I think he went full monoball in the rear and that was that. Pics here: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9&userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&AlbumId={D383C2E2-8DC2-4EBF-A7B7-068689BD893D}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9&GroupId={6D2BD180-CD3C-43B3-B9F2-1BEB95FCD9B5}&nt=a

Tie rods and ball joints are most likely your problem in the front. In the rear, the lower you go the more rear camber you'll get. If your springs are sagged, that's why you have neg camber back there. It's really not a bad thing, except for the fact that you probably don't have enough up front to balance the car's handling.

What else have you done? Condition?

Yes, ether, aka starting fluid. I've used it to seat tires before. If you spray it in the valve stem hole and light it from there you get a pretty good pop. Sounds like an m80. That video was pretty cool though. Didn't look like he could have done it much better than that.

Agreed. Porsche 944 is set up the same way, and to adjust caster you can move the rear pivot left or right on the frame rail. On that car you can only move it maybe 1" or so, which gives a pretty small range of adjustment but also moves the front and rear control arm pivots out of square with the rest of the car, essentially turning the front control arm into a semi-leading or semi-trailing arm. The amount of out-of-squareness may not be enough to really feel a difference when you're driving, I don't know. But I do know that people race Z cars with anything from 3 to 10 degrees of caster, and you wouldn't have anywhere near that range of adjustment with this style arm. Unlike some other cars there isn't a whole lot of room up top to adjust it either. The 944/RX7 style control arm would allow for more room for the wheel to turn without contacting anything. Might be a good idea for drifters...

I'm sure that works fine too, so long as the air that hits that diffuser has to go through the IC. The thing that I feel doesn't work is the most common IC installation: the IC is installed in the front of the radiator with no duct to or from it, so that it just effectively becomes a wall to the airflow. I don't know that the radiator is such a huge impedance to the exiting air either, since the air that has already been forced into the IC has hit and dealt with a fairly major restriction compared to when it entered the duct. I can't see this being a real factor in raising intake temps, but it would be easy enough to test which is better. I think the best solution would be a separate path for airflow for both the IC and radiator, but that doesn't seem to be as easy to fabricate.

The options that I've found are T56, TKO, T5 but then you'd have to beef it up to handle serious use, Super T10 or Muncie 4 speed. That's pretty much all I'm aware of. I think I'll end up going T56 just because I want a top speed over 135 mph and the TKO and T5 seem too expensive by the time you get everything needed to get the trans in the car. I'd love to hear another option or that I'm wrong on price on something...

Out of curiosity, where did you get it?

I chose the Ultra-Shield Rally Sport. Mostly based on price, but it turns out the thing is damn comfy. One of these years I'll get to drive in it and tell you how it feels on the track, but I can say for sure that it gives a lot more lateral support than the Recaros that i used to run.

This is GOOD advice. I'll add a bit more: get a quality disk, Paraut if you can find it. They are supposedly the supplier for Nissan's stock factory disks and pressure plates. I am not a fan of the rubber springs you have there, nor a fan of puck clutches for cars that don't need them. If this is for your car with the E31 and SU's, a puck clutch is overkill. You could probably get away with a stock pressure plate, but if you're feeling like you have to get something stiffer, I do like the ACT that I was running with a stock disk. It was holding 240ish whp, no problems.

Am I missing something? Seems like you can just cut the brake line and put on a 3/16" fitting, or the metric 10 x 1 if that's what you prefer. All you need is a double flare tool...