JMortensen

Give them a call. They used to have them, although they might not advertise them. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=729448

Take the front diff crossmember off.

No longer available.

If he's legal all you can do is deal with coming in second or spend money to go faster. From what I know of your car I think it's not built to the extent of the rules, so you've got a lot of room for improvement. If you're just out there to have fun, just have fun. That's what I did when I ran my extremely underprepared FP car. I put used slicks on it because they were cheap and faster than the BFG R1's I was running previously, and I ignored PAX completely and satisfied myself with building a car in my garage that was faster than cars 8 or 10x more expensive. You might complain about the Midget dropping oil on the course. That's usually not acceptable and cars that are that bad won't (shouldn't) make it through tech inspection.

Yep. Ball joint.

I installed a 7KW generator last year for my 2200 sq ft house. It isn't big enough to power my shop and the house though. The electrician who did the wiring said don't run the microwave, dishwasher, etc all at the same time, but it will run all of the lights, computers, and TV, etc at the same time. Runs on natural gas, which is nice because you don't have to fill a cylinder. My neighbor got a 12KW so he can run it all at once, but I figured if the power was out that means a big storm and I'm probably not going to be spending too much time in the shop, and I really can't envision a need to wash dishes, run the microwave and blow dry all at the same time.

That's different than what I was told (don't ask who you can trace that one back to, it's been so long I don't remember... Rebello, Malvern, Nissan Comp, somebody who heard from some guy who had a friend who worked for an expert, ???) Regardless of the source, I was told that the OA blocks maximized top end power and the 8 blocks reduced it for the sake of drivability. I did ask Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing a while back and he did have the #8 blocks, so it would be easy enough to try them out. It would be interesting to compare to a Weber emulsion tube and see what the differences are, I imagine it is the number and size of the holes in the tube.

There are only 3 pages of posts in the FAQ forum. Here it is (it was on p.2): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886

Omar please try to use a better title on your threads so that people will know what your thread is about without having to open it.

Try this if you can: Get the car rolling at idle and slowly roll on the throttle. In my car, this would completely eliminate the stumble. That's partially why I figure it is an intake velocity issue. I don't know how load would affect intake tract velocity, so I can't speak to that. My suspicion is that if you're WOT and pulling strong, and then the engine bogs down, then you might have something else going on. I figure that you snap open the throttles, simultaneously the accel pumps shoot a big ol pee stream of fuel down the runners, and that is what causes the bog. I think the reason the larger pilots work is because they will give more fuel without it coming in that big stream. The fuel is atomized better, so no stumble. You already have small pump nozzles, so you're looking good in that respect. Most people run the accel pump linkage on the bottom of the carbs in the middle hole and say don't ever adjust it. I adjusted mine to the max output hole and it made the stumble worse, so I put it back in the middle hole. I think the smaller chokes may be a good idea for you too, because if my hypothesis is right that would keep the velocity up. One other thing I wanted to mess with but haven't yet is the jet blocks. Everyone says use the OA blocks. But if I recall the Mikuni manual and various other sources also say that the 8 blocks are for "street engines". I want to try the 8 blocks, but like I said, haven't got around to it. If you take a look at Webers, they have a lot more parameters to adjust, and the "emulsion tube" is analogous to the Mikuni jet block. They have a whole bunch of them to choose from, where we only have 3 jet blocks and 99% of people are using the OA and won't even consider using anything else.

I screwed around with this for a long time. I went the wrong way and installed bigger pump nozzles and adjusted the pump jet linkage to no avail. What I've found to help is larger pilots. It will make the car rich during the stumble, but will also clear it up a bit. Others have suggested smaller chokes and shorter runners as solutions. Even what the cause of the stumble is is a bit of a mystery. My own feeling is that when you open the throttle suddenly the velocity in the intake goes down and the car has to kind of catch up for a second before it takes off.

No, they mount the strut to the steer knuckle. You would put a bump steer spacer in right between the steer knuckle and the strut if that helps.

Take the two bolts out of the bottom of the strut and you can pull it right off of the steer knuckle, no fussing with the tie rods necessary. If you were going to remove them and replace or something like that and needed to get them off, then you would not want to pound from the top. You'll mushroom the threads and then you've got real problems. You can use a pickle fork but it will tear the boots, or the tool that you described, either of which you can buy at auto parts stores or online. A pickle fork on an air hammer works great. I've never had much luck at this but some guys will whale on the side of the piece, in this case the steer knuckle right where the tapered section of the tie rod goes through with a BFH. If you do this right the vibration will pop the tie rod loose.

Tweaked LCA or the strut hole for the spindle pin could be drilled wrong. John Coffey has come up with a few like that. You might consider camber bushings in the rear to fix.

A bigger one...

Sorry to bring this up again, but I just downloaded the 73 240Z manual from carfiche (it wasn't available for a couple days) and it also has no mention of torquing the stub axle or pinion nuts to adjust preload: From the FSM: Diff pinion preload: "Adjust preload of drive pinion with spacer and washer between front and rear bearing cones, regardless of thickness of pinion height adjusting washer. This adjustment must be carried out without the oil seal inserted." Wheel bearing shows no spring scale type device as Coffey has described in the FSM he has. It just has some dimensions for the spacers in between the bearings along with end play and preload (should really be drag) specs and says "Readjust as required". No mention whatsoever of the torque on the stub axle nut affecting preload.

Mailbox should be OK. Pics on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=838383

We want descriptive titles so that people searching don't have to open your thread to see what it is about. I'm changing it for you.

The oil that lubes the cam lobes isn't pressurized like a bearing journal. It's just oil sitting on the lobe. The spray bar puts oil on the lobe continuously. The internally drilled cam oils only one part of the lobe, where the hole is. Yes, the hole is strategically placed, but the distribution of oil is not even. Nissan comp offered spray bar kits to add the spray bar to the L4, and How to Modify specifically states that the spray bar is better lubrication system. When you take into account which is more likely to fail over the course of 200,000 miles, I think you might come to the conclusion that the internally oiled cam is better, but comparing correctly functioning system to correctly functioning system I think it's clear that the spray bar is the better of the two. When in doubt, run both.

I just checked and E85 has an octane rating of 105. I'd suggest you stick to closer to 12:1 compression, I think 14:1 is going to leave you pinging like crazy. You might try to see what high compression race engines run for fuel and work the problem from the other end. E Production L24's run somewhere around 12:1. You might see what octane fuel they're running. 1 fast z is right though, those 9 cc dome pistons are not a slap them in and run it type of thing.

I had to change my driveshaft flange when I installed a 300ZXT diff in my car around 1994. I "torqued" my driveshaft flange with an IR 231 impact wrench set on 5. Same with my stub axle nuts when I changed my rear wheel bearings around the same time. I then ran them for many thousands of miles 5 or 6 seasons of autox and some track days. As far as taking the diffs apart, I've done that too. In fact I've set pinion preload with a crush sleeve on a diff that has one as well, so I have that experience as well. I was specifically trained on the difference between the two systems when I started working for Randy's Ring and Pinion. I was a salesman, but we all spent a solid week in the shop building diffs. From that experience I know that something has to change the distance between the bearings in order for the bearing preload to change with the nut torque. There just isn't anything that is going to change in either case (diff or stub axle). In the case of a crush sleeve, they are throw away items, so once you go past the amount of preload you want you take the thing out, throw it in the trash and get another one. If you can loosen the nut and change the preload and tighten it again and get more preload, that would mean that there would have to be something springy in there causing the change that could give repeatable results. I've had both the diff and the stubs down to their component parts, and I haven't seen any springs in there. Even if the pinion shaft or the stub axle itself stretches this would not change the preload on the tapered bearings. Only the thick solid spacer in between the two bearings is responsible for setting preload. I just checked the 82ZX FSM, no mention of preload changing with pinion nut torque. It says change the spacer length to change the preload. Interestingly, it also has no mention of torque changing the preload on the stub axles. I think that recommendation from the 240Z FSM which Coffey has quoted before may come from the copper spacers which would crush and were no longer used in the ZX. Again, the ZX manual says if the preload is wrong, change the spacer. The only thing that I've found that changes the preload on either bearing is drag from the seal, or the dust lip on the seal if the seal isn't fully seated all the way. I'm sure you believe what you saw, I'm just not sure what you saw. I think you know that I mean that in the most respectful way.

How do you figure that the pinion nut torque affects preload? What part is being affected by the torque and changing the distance between the tapered bearings? There just isn't anything in there that can crush or distort so as to change preload, so I'm going to stick to my guns and say that I think you're wrong.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/942705K1/10002/-1 I had to take a look for myself... This is a drag racing tube frame. Note that it uses jegster front suspension and 4 link rear. Not exactly 240Z specific...

Spray bar is the better lubrication system, assuming the holes aren't all clogged with crap.

I have to disagree. I think that assuming you can keep your finger out of the way, pulling the strut down like that is really the way to go. After the spring is pulled it's really easy to put the top hat back on and put the strut back in place and put one nut on to hold the top hat. Now everything is held nicely and you can take your big ass pliers and loosen the gland nut very easily. Once it is loose, pull the whole thing back down and you can swap the strut insert, put the spring and top hat back on and reassemble. I had a Nissan master tech as a roommate for a couple years, and that's the way he did it. He would only pull the control arm if he needed to replace bushings.