JMortensen

You might want to search on that Tokico kit before you buy it.

The problem is that the front pivots are already notched into part of the frame. You'd have to rework the floor in the back if you wanted the pivots more than about an inch higher than stock in the front. Raising the rear would be simple, just make shorter uprights.

I don't think the shocks are "built into the strut". They look like stock strut housings with strut inserts and gland nuts. I looked at their website but couldn't find any pictures of the inserts (didn't try too hard though). What you would need to know is are the struts as long as the tube. If so, the rear would be too tall. More likely they're the same insert front and rear and the rear has a spacer under it, as the rear tube is 3" longer than the front. If that is the case you can section the strut and cut down the spacer and make it work. It would take some cutting and welding, but a lot of people here do that to fit shorter than standard struts on their Z's anyway.

Where I can I find some proof of this? I've heard it many times, but as I said in another thread just today, when you look at the Factory Service Manual there is no difference in the suspension pickup points, and another member noted that there is no difference in the suspension pieces themselves.

That's what I was thinking too. That bike has to be worth more than the Ram. Good trade, looks like fun to me.

Looks the same to me. Actually, I didn't scroll down the first time. The red car clearly has less tire sticking out, but still has too much. It appears the tires are different brands. That alone could make the difference.

The idea that the 2+2 is wider or that the control arms are longer is a recurring rumor, but I think Pete is right. I checked the FSM for somebody else a while back and couldn't find any differences in the suspension pickup points or anything so that leads me to believe it's all the same back there, whether you're talking about a coupe or a 2+2.

That is a mystery I don't think we're going to be able to solve for you.

The revised version looks OK to me, but they weren't doing the e-check stuff 12 years ago. Like I said I'm not sure on the international thing, but I think that would probably be an issue too. If you have your merchant agreement that you filled out when you signed up to take credit cards on the back of it all the rules are listed. Break out the magnifying glass (seriously small print on the ones we used) and you can check for yourself. Personally I think it's worth it to deal with the cc hassle and charges for my business, and I'd expect the same for you. I saved up the money for my parts before I bought from you, but how many people who are buying your body parts are actually doing that? I'd guess the percentage is fairly small. Besides, if you actually went and raised the price of a $793 hatch to $816, how many people are going to complain? m4xwellmurd3r, paypal charges their fee regardless of whether you have the funds in your account or not.

I just read this more closely, and I can tell you for sure that #4 violates Visa/MC regs. Not sure what you want to do with that info. It might suck for you though if they revoked your merchant account. I'd guess #3 is also a problem, but can't recall a specific rule to deal with international sales.

The difference is people would be less likely to use your payment service if they have to tack an additional fee to the total. It is for the convenience that the merchant has to eat the costs as Mikelly said, and these charges should not be passed on to the customer. Visa/Mastercard has very similar regulations (which I'm sure were the inspiration for Paypal's rules), only they have a hell of a lot more power to enforce the rules. The Visa/MC rule goes basically like so: You can offer a cash discount, but the advertised price cannot be raised when the customer pays with a credit card. There are quite a few other related issues that I was paid to enforce about 12 years ago. I can't remember all of them, but not setting a minimum charge for a credit card transaction was one. Personally I avoid Paypal as much as possible because they tend to be a couple percent more expensive than the cc companies anyway.

OK, good to know. For what it's worth, I'd prefer the clutch style anyway.

Try to use a more descriptive title in the future please. Changing this one.

Shouldn't a proper valve job include verifying that the valves are all at the same depth when closed? I know my machinist made sure of that. Once you have the valve height squared away, then the lift would be the same as measured on the valve tip with the dial indicator. It's a good idea, and something that never even remotely crossed my mind. Thanks for the tip Phred!

Nope you asked fine, I just need to read a little bit. Sorry Greg. This thread over on classiczcars.com shows my shifter mod, and talks in more depth about the issues you'll come across: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24759&page=3 John referenced the potential for better handling with the diff forward. The key here is the U-jointed axles don't like the angularity that the forward diff mount gives. Nissan had vibration issues and lots of U-joint replacements, so they moved the diff back on the later cars. If you want the diff forward, a solution (other than replacing U-joints more frequently) is to run CV's. There aren't too many people messing with CV's for R180s. zcarnut has done some experimenting with CVs and has posted here before about it, and http://www.wolfcreekracing.com makes a very nice bolt in kit.

I thought this was a helical diff. If that's the case, it doesn't have typical pinion gears. Regardless, kudos to you for doing what it takes to get it done. I really like this solution.

You could swap the aluminum forks that your friend has into the spare...

Why are you bringing up motor and trans mounts? The motor mounts are the same, the trans crossmember is different but the mount is the same and in the same position. The one thing that is different is the transmission and it's shifter mechanism. If you have the older style trans when you swap to the newer style the shifter won't come straight up through the hole, you have to make a new shifter or cut a bigger hole in the floor. But that is all off topic.

I think the early 5 speed up through 79 has steel forks too. I thought you were using a T5...

Cutting the coils won't raise the spring rate much at all. I think the 280 springs don't get over 130 in/lbs or so, you can check over at classiczcars.com and find the specs. You might bump it up 5 or 10 in/lbs by cutting. If you can get the specs on the wire diameter number of coils, etc, you can check the spring rate mathematically: http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm Sorry for the annoying background on the link, it was the first one I clicked on.

The screwdriver goes underneath the rocker, so not too much chance of damaging the cam. I used a long 3/8" extension once, so if you prefer at least that wouldn't have any sharp edges. I pried on the casting plugs down in the bottom of the head. I don't know any of the other answers you were looking for, except to say that a stock cam should basically be a giveaway. They're a dime a dozen.

They'd just bolt up. No special fabbing required.

2 RW116 and 2 RW117. I can't remember which is which but the inner is sealed and the outer is not, hence the seal part number as well. You need all 3 pieces, one set of 3 for each side. I should also tell you that I ordered Timken fronts and rears and the box came with Timken fronts and Federal Mogul rear bearings in it. I opened up the bearings and they were Koyos (OEM) inside, so I went ahead and used them. I seem to remember being charged quite a bit less than expected too.

No idea. You could call around. I suggest you find a shop that is familiar with old Z's because if they go by the hour and don't know what they're doing it could get expensive.

You move the adjusters which are on the passenger side of the head up or down. This raises or lowers the ball pivot on one end of the rocker, which in turn raises the contact area of the rocker arm closer to the camshaft. I'm sure your FSM and the haynes has the info on how to adjust the valves. To do it perfectly will take some time and effort. To slap it in there won't be nearly as bad, but the one thing that is fairly crucial is that you get the wipe pattern right. If it is wrong you'll waste the cam and the rockers.