JMortensen

Don't change the oil weight. Add LSD additive. You should be able to find it at any auto parts store. Chrysler, GM, Ford, it's all the same stuff. Just keep adding tubes or bottles until the chattering stops.

I was thinking it would require more than just 3/8". I can't say for sure, and I can't do what I tell everyone else to do and put it together and check for bind, so I'm a bit screwed. I was thinking 1/2" or 3/4". I did PM mayolives, I know he had custom CV axles made, I was thinking if I made the control arms longer by the same amount that he made the CV's shorter, that should do it.

I'm resurrecting this one as I'm in the planning stages, trying to figure out how wide to make the control arms. I measured stock at 14.5", and I have the 300ZXT CV axles. I will be running seriously low ride heights, so I'm thinking at least 15" wide. I'll also have flares (which I anticipate having to widen already) and I have 15x12 wheels for the back with 4.5 offset. Anyone have any input on control arm length, specifically as it relates to CV binding? After hemming and hawing and buying the wrong parts twice, I finally ended up deciding on a 1.125" OD, .935" ID, .095" wall DOM tube. I wasn't going to do this at all, but after seeing all the CV binding posts a couple months ago I decided it would be worth it for that aspect, not to mention the freedom of motion and reduction of stiction.

Good question. Another one for you. Does cambered out mean positive camber or negative camber? I would assume positive camber by the OUT, but I think it's more likely that your car has negative camber if it has been lowered.

I can't believe they don't show a weight on it. That's the important part. Put it on a scale and tell us what it weighs.

The Mikuni ones are asbestos. The Nissan Comp are rubber and about 2x as thick. They do a better job of insulating from heat and also handle a bit of vibration as well or so I'm told.

Nothing new to update here. I haven't been working on the car in about 4 months, and this was not what I was working on when I stopped. I'm getting back out there to start some new rear control arms soon. Got some parts coming and then I can tear into it. Should be fun.

If you go by the old (not necessarily true) rule of thumb, the Nissan Comp has longer runners, which should give more low end. No. The Nissan Comp is a much better quality casting than the Cannon, length is in between the Cannon and the Mikuni, and it has probably the best most gentle bends in the manifold of any of them. The Nissan Comp carb insulators are also supposedly much better than the Mikuni pieces, if you can find them.

Nissan Comp. If Nissan went to the trouble to make their own manifold, there is probably a reason. Rebello told me that using a Cannon instead of a Mikuni manifold was a good move when I asked them 7 or 8 years ago. I'd suggest 44's as well.

What I can't figure out is why we haven't seen one yet. The red LS1 car was 2500 lbs, I'm not sure what Cameron's weighs, but theoretically a 2200 lb LS powered Z shouldn't be too hard to build. And yes, it would be awesome. Cameron thinks his is capable of high 11's and his motor is apparently stock: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137500

A little late now, don't you think?

Yes, bump your old thread instead of posting the same thing over and over. Savage42 also did a run of the disks, but not the plates as I recall. I tool shedded your other clutch posts.

Do you realize that you're posting a response to a comment that was made 3 1/2 years ago? Just checking...

I don't know Crane's reputation at all. I do know ISKY's, it is good, and they regrind cams for L series. The base circle issue is not really an issue as far as I'm concerned. Theoretically one is better than the other, but practically speaking unless you're running insanely high rpms you shouldn't have issues with valve float on a reground cam with the proper springs. I should let Phred pick up the cam wear/zinc/metallurgy argument because I've already made a couple incorrect statements and he seems to be more on the ball in regards to this issue. Thanks again Pyro for showing me where I was incorrect.

Good point. This is not a fair comparison. So how many reground cams do you hear about losing a lobe? These should be worse than the Schneider, because the base circle is smaller. I've still never seen it though. Did I mention that I'm using Schneider springs with my cam? Right. I think they're also using substandard metallurgy. I think this is also where you get the "run it at 3000 rpm for 1/2 hour" before you drive the car cam break in stuff from. Look at grumpyvette's posts and it appears that Comp Cams has the equivalent reputation as Schneider does with the L6 for soft cam lobes. V8s have always had a reputation for losing cam lobes, at least they've always had that reputation with me.

Wow. That's weird. I would swear that when the zinc thing originally came up I looked it up and it had no zinc whatsoever. I tried to find the post and see where I came to that conclusion, no joy. Well thanks for setting me straight, but I still think the zinc is a red herring. How many stock cams do you hear about losing a lobe? How many Schneider cams do you hear about losing a lobe? Notice a correlation?

I've said it before, but I think the zinc is a red herring. I ran Chevron Delo 15W-40 for years with my reground Nissan cams with stock unaltered rocker arms. It turns out this oil has no zinc at all in it, and yet my cams have held up just fine even though I autox and did some track days. Nobody I used to race with has ever lost a cam lobe, and we're talking about quite a few L engines with reground cams, only one guy ever bothered to replace the rockers, and that was only on one of his 6 or 7 motors he's built since I've known him. I think the metallurgy of the camshaft and possibly the rockers is the issue, and the oil is not really a factor.

You need to quit posting and go back to searching and reading. No such thing as semi-quench. Quench happens when the piston and chamber are very close to each other. No part of that chamber is close to the piston, except maybe a ridge around the outside. Go search and read, you'll find all the info you could want on this topic.

That would be better, but there would still have a myriad of other issues. If this was a welded cradle in the front with a diff mount built in, I'd say it's better, but would prefer the mount be on the top like Ron's diff mount. The tubes are still kept from rotating with a set screw it seems, and there is still nothing preventing the tubes from sliding fore and aft (maybe the 1/4" set screw does double duty there). As to the control arms themselves, we still have Dave advertising that you can center the wheel in the wheel well, when we know this puts a hell of a bind on the strut itself, and we still have the critical spacing between the forward and rear outer rod ends, and the fact that adjusting them to change the toe changes the critical distance. It's still a bad idea bonanza!

If I'm not mistaken that looks like a shortnose R200 front diff mount that is clamped to the inner pivot thing. It would appear from the picture that this diff mount has two separate pieces that clamp to the control arm and there is no top piece or anything else that manages the thousands of lbs of lift from the front of the diff. From that picture it looks like he's taken a horrible situation and managed to make it quite a bit worse. Someone pinch me, I have to be dreaming...

Ah yes. The infamous "dual inner pivot" rear control arm.

How about coilovers and Illuminas? You would get to pick your spring rate.

Yeah, I think that's wrong. If you look at the FSM the suspension pickup points are exactly in the same place. And if the control arms are exactly the same too... well, the would have the same width.

Found on cc.com. Good stuff.

Ron nailed it. You need to make sure the coils don't bind. Eibach has their spring specs in their catalog which you can download here: http://eibach.com/eibach/img/ers-catalog-2004.pdf I tried to find this info for Hyperco and had a tough time. Eventually I found it but I can't remember where...