JMortensen

I think simply stated the problem is that when the car rolls you lose camber. You can either add camber or reduce the roll. What I used to do when I started autoxing was to mark the edge of the treads with shoe polish and inflating the tires enough to make sure that the tire wasn't rolling onto the sidewall. This was done before moving on and trying to adjust pressure for even temps. When I was running far too little camber on the Yoko slicks I had about 5 or 6 more psi than I did after adding more caster and neg camber, so you might give that a try, but I think you really need to take the next step to stiffer springs. You're generating too much grip for soft springs in my opinion.

I believe it is 14 x 1.5. You could always go look.

Sounds like you need more neg camber. You can swap them on the rims to get a little more life out of them if they're not already too far gone. This might be one of those things that would get better with a big jump in spring rate, less roll being the difference.

How about searching for it? There are several.

Several weeks later and more progress. The turnbuckles from Coleman came. I had ordered them at 3" and had to cut them down to 2 1/2, which also required cutting down some of the rod end shank as well. Theoretically this weakens the rod end, but I'm using oversized ends here so I don't think it will be a problem. I had drawn the control arm like this: Now I'm thinking that I should only use one brace like this: And here is the arm with the bracket for the toe link mocked up. I'll have to take a look at Emwhyrohen's bracket again, he shaped his so they look pretty... The brace that is in line with the toe link goes straight to the center of the inner tube, and that just doesn't seem like a good way to try and strengthen the control arm. I'm also considering gusseting all the corners with .060 sheet taco gussets for good measure.

What were the weights?

The 8 hole adjusts + or - 4 degrees by 1 degree increments as I recall. The slotted style will have about the same range with infinite adjustability in that range. What's the hp difference between a one degree adjustment and a .5 degree adjustment? Realistically, not much.

This has come up before. Here is one thread I found searching "airbag". There were quite a few more, but a lot had to do with SRS airbags, not suspension. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106709

Search "coilovers" and see what you come up with. The middle one is Arizona Z Car, or looks like it. You can zinc plate the strut housings if you want the bling. You should search before you post, and post in the right forum. This is a brakes, wheels, suspension, and chassis post. Moving. Also, please use a descriptive title so that people don't have to open your post to see what it is about. You'll see when you start searching that a descriptive title saves a hell of a lot of time. Changing title.

Bolt it all up and feel how much resistance there is in that joint alone. Then reconsider shaving the bushing down to reduce that resistance. Might think about putting zerks in the end of the control arm too so you can keep them lubed. Doesn't work on the inside bushings, but it does on the outside bushings.

I would shave down the bushings. You can also spread the ends of the control arm apart. Here is the info on using the spindle pin puller to spread the control arm end apart: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SpindlePinTool.htm

Congratulations! Sounds like the RE market is still pretty hot in your area. Good looking place, and I like the wide driveway and the three car garage. One story is nice too. When my wife and I bought here in Seattle about a year and a half ago it was a similar story. We found our house before it hit the MLS and there was already an offer on it. We bid the asking price and luckily it went to us. We looked at several that were bought before we could make up our minds as to whether or not to put in a bid.

The strut has a dust seal on where the shaft enters the strut insert already. If you have to use the boot, then don't use the poly. Either way works fine, but the dust boots are not necessary.

My suggestion is don't use the boots and use the poly. You don't need to use both though.

Also take a look at Zedd Findings.

The one thing that I would have suggested for your build, even keeping it cheap, would have been rings and bearings. A "loose" bottom end on the wide end of the acceptable range of piston to bore clearance makes better power than a tight one, but you need the rings to work to seal it up. Bearings are just a good insurance policy. But if you don't care because you built the engine for nothing, then no big deal. Thanks for the compliments guys. Specs on the suspension here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117235 That engine was really nothing special and I raced it like that for years and did pretty well. I estimate the triples gave 40 whp, but that's just a guess, and I've never had the $$$ or time for dynos. The cam was a big deal too. I ran the bigger cam on the SU's and it was much better than the first cam upgrade I did, which was a high lift low duration cam. When I built the flat top shortblock it picked up a lot more bottom end but now needs about 95 octane.

I think those pictures have been posted before although I tried and couldn't find them. From that previous post I believe this is the LY head. I have my finger poised over the close thread button. When people start speculating about a "single cam S20" head, these threads about these unattainable heads become useless really quickly. chicostyle, you may want to search LY here and at classiczcars.com. Here you'll find a lot of threads about the OS Giken head and people getting confused between the two, but if you're lucky you may find a useful thread deep in the archives.

Here's basically the same engine with a cam and triples. Same ~8.5:1 compression, L28/E31 combo with dished pistons but it was bored .020 over. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2000-autox-indisde-and-outside-I-think-my_8051.htm

Gotta disagree Hyuri. My experience is that it the UPS, DHL, and FedEx tracking systems are much better and the chances of finding a package that gets lost with any of them is also much better than with USPS. I use FedEx Ground for my mail order biz because they are the cheapest for the size boxes that I ship. I've had the following tracking experience with USPS: 1. Customer calls, says they didn't get package. 2. Call USPS. 3. USPS calls customer to ask if they received the package. 4. USPS calls me to say that they didn't get it. No kidding.

Well one issue is that the tubing is apparently 4130. Still, that is smaller than would be allowed in an ITS car. I guess I had this idea that rally cars were pretty much indestructible, and now I'm finding out that this is not the case. I hope your pain isn't so bad that you can't enjoy the pills.

Is that paper really stating that Prodrive runs two non-parallel door bars that don't intrude into the door space and that's it? And the thickest tube in the cage is 38.1mm x 1.6mm??? Did I read something wrong there? That's 1.5" x .062". If that is right that means that any ITS Z car has substantially more side impact protection than a WRC rally car. I feel like I must be missing something.

Got 15 x 12s for the rear. Plan is to stretch some bubble flares to fit. You know, while I'm at it. Car should be running by 2025 at the very latest. I'll be 50 then so I'm just hoping my reflexes will keep up. X Prepared is a kind of open prepared class, I think it swallowed up B Prepared. It's in the SCCA rulebook if you want the specifics. The short version is that weight is tied to displacement. With a 5.3 LS engine the weight spec would be 2350 lbs. I think there is a serious advantage to smaller displacement turbo cars because they can weigh A LOT less, but I'm not out for a national championship, I just want to build a really fast Z car.