JMortensen

Yes, the lengine.exe one does.

I know you said an L28ET swap is not for you. Fair enough. But why not put a stock L28 block under that E88 head and SU's. Should get you close to your 200 bhp goal with maybe a cam, header and exhaust. The way I see it you're going to spend A LOT more money building the L24 into a stroker than you would just finding an L28 with dished pistons and building it.

You still have down in the original post that you need a thicker headgasket.

.13mm = .005" So you have pistons sticking up .005 out of the deck. If you want the piston to deck clearance to be .024, that leaves you only .029" for the headgasket. So you need a super thin gasket, not a thicker one. A 1mm gasket is .040, so that would give you .045" clearance. If you look you might find a thread about HKS 2mm gaskets where the idea of peeling off layers was talked about. I had been under the impression that all of the layers were the same thickness but apparently they are not. I can't recall how thin the thin ones were, but I seem to think that there were 5 layers, so they'd have to be thinner than .040".

I had a caliper bracket like that on my Z, so I put my longer studs in when I swapped rear wheel bearings. The bracket doesn't need to attach to all 4 bolt holes like that though. If you look at Ross's brackets or AZC's brackets, they only attach to 2 or 3 holes. You can grind the bracket down for clearance (just do it opposite where the caliper is) or you can pull the stubs. The 12mm Camaro/RX7 studs fit the hubs without having to redrill or anything, so that part is as easy as it gets.

The fundamental problem is that the diff pulls away from the crossmember. If the crossmember were on top of the diff then it would compress, and a poly mount would work just fine. Since it pulls apart, I don't really think that putting a different type of rubber or poly in the void would help much at all. It might be good for the area between the strap or whatever is used (don't think it would work for a bolt) and the bottom of the crossmember. For the bolt, just go get some 1/2" fuel hose and slip it over. I think this is discussed in my diff FAQ.

15mm total thickness and it's a bolt on??? How do they get enough nut on there to hold the spacer on? I think I'd rather have a slip on spacer with some strong ARP or similar studs.

Like it or not, you look more intelligent when you spell things correctly. I've used spell checker plentum of times...

1 fast z, spell checker is your friend.

Pete, that's DIY at it's best. Good job.

You might check into coil bind and available travel. I think it's been found that anything under 275 in/lb binds in an 8" spring on a Z strut.

Hmm... wonder if that's a CA thing. I know 1439 had the expansion tank. I think 472 did as well, but I can't quite be positive. They were both CA cars.

A friend of mine did this in his 510. The result was not so hot in my opinion. I think he is still racing it like that, but the throws got really long and felt more sloppy. Your mileage may vary.

This is one of those "truth is stranger than fiction" moments... thanks Alex!

225s

I think that might be overstating the danger a bit. There are lots of cars on the road with small fuel leaks and very few of them burn up. I had a related embarrassing incident at the track once. I had dead headed my fuel system and had not done anything with the return line. I mean nothing. It was just the fuel line sitting there disconnected in the engine bay. So I came in from a session and popped the hood and there was fuel everywhere in the right side of the engine compartment. Apparently under braking the gas was running forward and out the line and dumping onto the fenderwell. I stuck a bolt in the return line and secured it with a hose clamp and that served as my fix for the next 4 or 5 years... I don't recall where the vent line attaches to, but if you're pulling some g's on deceleration you might be dribbling some gas through that K&N in the engine compartment.

Really? Even though it apparently wasn't the "real" car, but a pace car instead? I'd guess between 60-80. $125 would surprise me. I guess it wouldn't be the first time I was surprised. Does anyone know what Frisselle's car sold for?

Yeah, apparently the owner thinks its worth more than $7000...

Mine now, although I didn't meet the reserve...

Good one! Hey Phil, you ever worry about the cape getting into the chain? Seems like that could cause some problems...

Doesn't the 5 lug hubs attach to the rotor hat with 5 bolts?

Charlie at Zedd Findings had this to say: "The rear panel that we manufacturer is the lower rear valance. I am still working on another company to manufacture the rear valance top plate." So if nothing else it sounds like he will at some point make it. Haven't heard back from Jerry yet.

The shortnose cradle or front mount is discussed and there are pictures of several different solutions in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

Shortnose R200 will take a standard 29 spline output shaft, unless its the VLSD which requires the oddball 30 spline CV from the 88 SS. Arizona Z Car used to sell the longnose Skyline diffs. I don't think they ever came with the VLSD, I think they came with the CLSD and 4.37 gears.

Well I sent an email off to Jerry, so we'll see what he says.