JMortensen

Are you still counting windows, doors, hood, hatch, carpet, interior panels, etc, or do you mean a bare chassis? I can't say for sure, but I think the bare chassis weight is something closer to 600 lbs. This has been talked about a long time ago but I expect it will be hard to find in the archives. Three strong guys can move a bare chassis around.

Some people blame it on lash pads or improper installation, some on using old rockers instead of replacing them when the cam gets swapped, some on the lack of the zinc in their particular oil. I seem to have only read about this problem with Schneider cams, so that's who I blame. Speeder is right though, there are lots of good threads in the archives about setting your cam up correctly and they are worth reading.

Yeah, what jt1 says. They are just placeholders, so they don't need to be an exact size. Take the stock shims down to a gear shop and find something close, but not larger than the stock shims. I think mike c said at one point years ago that the GM 12 bolt shims worked.

Yeah it's a problem! Vacuum sucks...

Without taking into consideration the paint issues and all that, removing the windshield is really easy.

You just have to try more search terms. Wilwood is going to bring up 1000 threads about installing Wilwood calipers. "Dual master cylinders" will get you more info, as will "Tilton" and "balance bar".

I think your tank will do just fine. It's a nice piece, you should be commended for your good work. All this talk about 42" tall surge tanks is great, but what you've got there is going to be functional, if less blingy, than some of the alternatives mentioned. If the surge tank is FULL because the low pressure pump keeps it FULL (read HIGH volume pump), then it CAN'T slosh away from the outlet at the bottom. I would use it on my car if I had a fuel injected engine without any hesitation.

How did you strip it? Chemically? Wire brush?

You can remove the windshield yourself, just cut through the old seal with a razor knife. I haven't had the best luck with the parking lot guys either, but I don't know that this is necessarily their fault. Well OK, the guy who scratched the A pillar was at fault, but other than that guy, I think the problem is the seals are crap. I had a new aftermarket seal and the windshield leaked every time it was replaced. I found that the easiest way to get the windshield to seal was by taking a tube of clear silicone and putting the tip UNDER the lip of the weatherstrip and putting a bead in underneath the gasket. Worked well and didn't leave a bunch of goop all over. The other problem I had was that the sheet metal underneath the seal was rusty. I think this is because the seal let water in, but my silicone job wouldn't let it out. With your car painted already I think you're just going to have to hope that your old seal shrunk and that the new seal will overlap the color change. I don't know of another way to fix that issue, aside from painting that area again if the seal isn't big enough...

If you search you'll find some info on this. viperredls1z has a wilwood setup that's an extremely clean show car type install. I had a thread on modifying the stock pedal box to accept dual masters. Johnc makes a dual master adapter that bolts to the firewall and the masters just bolt straight in.

You linked to the page where the photos are. If you go to that page and then right click on the photos and get their location from the little properties box and then put that location in your IMG tags the pics will show in the thread. Good job, and yeah, getting the car on the rotisserie is a little scary!!!

Not quite. The 8.5 gets doubled to give you the full advance. That means that your dizzy has 17 degrees of mechanical advance. So theoretically setting the timing at 19 degrees at idle will get you your 36 total. To test, set the gun at 36. Rev the engine. When the advance is all in (should be around 2500 rpms) then the pointer should be at 0.

17's will give you more weight and at a greater leverage than the minimum size wheels which will fit the brakes. I think most 15's clear the 12.2" AZC brake package. It's easier to find tires in 16, 17, and 18 inch sizes, but for your stated goal of not adding more weight than necessary they may not be the best choice.

$399 EACH for coilovers??? I need to start selling coilovers!!! I think that price you found was actually for a set of 4. If you check places like Ground Control, Techno Toy Tuning, and Modern Motorsports you should find more comparable prices to AZC. You can mix and match from there to get the best deal, but you do need to make sure that all the components you buy will work together. You might read the camber plate sticky thread as it has quite a bit of info on the differences between the plates. They are not all the same.

On mine one of the connectors got hooked on a sharp sheet metal corner up inside the B pillar. I pushed and pulled and jerked and did pretty much everything I could think of but I could not for the life of me get one stupid connector through. I ended up cutting that one connector off and the wires slid right out.

Go back and read the whole thread. I think you'll find the answer to your question. Some P90A's have solid lifters, I think it was theorized that they were the Japanese import motors that were built like that.

The toe also changes quite a bit while the camber changes. Semi-trailing arm is not good drag suspension. You can make it work, but I bet you won't find any tube frame drag cars using semi-trailing arms if you go looking. I think the solution is going to be brutally stiff springs.

You could buy new frame rails and weld them in, or make your own out of square tube. Do a search and you'll find several threads from people who have done this previously. I'd probably look for a new tub. Might require a flight to AZ or CA, but it might also be a bargain vs fixing that one...

I don't see anything wrong with cutting that part off. I'd pull the floor to the frame rails rather than bending the frame rails to hit the floor. Just use sheet metal screws and then plug weld the holes from the top.

I cut the stockers off entirely. Mine looked like yours but worse.

There's probably 5 people on this forum (if that many) running the Kameari setup. It has some definite benefits, but it's pretty pricey so I think only those who are REALLY worried about their cam timing would be able to justify the expense.

Changed the title. Goodhumorman, we want the title to be descriptive enough that people will know what is in the thread before they open it up.

The 70 and 71 had the diff mounted about 1" forward of all the rest of them. They had a different mustache bar and a different transverse link behind the diff which was straight instead of curved back. After mid 71 or so they changed them and moved the diff back, and I think there was a recall at the time because of premature U-joint failure.

L28 with dished pistons + E31 head gives ~8.3:1 compression

That was not what I expected to hear... What do you attribute the toe change to John? Seeing as how the suspension doesn't have dynamic toe change in the rear by design, are you thinking that having the halfshafts forward meant they could torque the bushings less or something? Were you running your Kevlar bushings at this point? Control arm deflection?