JMortensen

The fact that the stock turbo cam is too small to make any power over 5500 is really the limiting factor. I had my original valve springs to 7500 rpm with the first tiny little upgrade cam I installed with stock springs. There wasn't much point to revving that high, but it got there without floating the valves. Now that you can use the extra rpms effectively I think the next limiting factor for you is the harmonic issue with the crank that is supposed to kick in around 7500 rpms. Apparently you can drive right through that spot, but it will cause damage over a relatively short period of time with a NA engine, or so goes the commonly spouted theory. I have not actually experienced the damaging effects of this harmonic issue myself...

Yep, I'd go 7200 or so.

Time to raise the rev limiter...

The doors don't swap out without major mods. If you have a 240 you put 240 doors on it, if you have a 280 you put 280 doors on it.

The 240 doors are 22 lbs less than the 280 doors, but use a different latching mechanism. Taking the glass and regulator out saves a lot of weight on the early doors. Here is a thread on doors and weights: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105722

The jets depend a lot on the cam used. Bigger cam, smaller jets. I think I had 215/155s in mine. Besides 80% of your drive around town fuel economy comes from the pilots in my experience.

I was also getting low to mid 20's on the highway with 44s. He did say he has a w/b O2, and it sounds like its tuned in about right. Not sure what the problem is.

Neg camber will make the car follow ruts. No getting around that, although a little toe in on the street will help. If I recall correctly, camber bushings give about a degree of adjustment. You might get 1/2 degree by slotting the strut towers. I ran -1.5 degrees camber in the front with 1/8" toe for years, never had a problem with it. When I got over 2 degrees it started getting really squirrely, especially up here in Seattle where all the freeways have deep ruts from studded snow tires.

Don't know that. I know my flat top L28 with E31 requires 95 octane to run advance in the mid 30's with a smaller cam than what you've got. I opened my chambers up a bit and shaved the head a bit, so chambers are probably similar in size to what you have there.

Bolt up swap? I don't think so. There is no way that leaf springs bolt up the the strut towers. I would agree that it is pretty simple in that you take the cab and bed off the frame, then you cut where you need to to fit the Z shell on the frame and make it fit from there, but it's not even close to a bolt up swap... Looks like it has a pretty decent departure angle. Hood sticks out a bit far in the front though...

You could make it work, but I'd guess you'd give up 40-50 hp in the end. Not worth it in my opinion. Just get the SKs running. Might ask Dan Baldwin what his jets are, just as a baseline. His should be pretty close to what you need.

I think you need larger pilots and smaller pumps. In my experience the smaller the pilots the larger the hesitation, and putting bigger pumps in makes it worse. Larger pilots may run fat, but they smooth the transition to the mains.

I'd sooner install an X to the rear strut towers from the top of the hoop than have a 2 piece diagonal.

I remembered a couple more things I wanted to get done before I painted... gussets and the coping across the deck. So those things got done today. I ran 4 sets of gussets. 2 at the base of the A pillar, 2 at the front of the halo, 2 at the main hoop to the area where the hatch bolts on, and 2 on the sides of the main hoop to the sides of the car. All are 3" wide by 2.5" or so long, except the ones on the sides of the main hoop, which are 5" long. They're all .060" thick sheet, and I bent the end that welded to the chassis in some cases where the gusset hit at a very perpendicular angle. I figured the angle would be stronger. I also used 2 of my tiny gussets where the hoop met the halo. They just slipped right on and welded right up. I didn't want to put another bar there because I thought it might be right in the way of a helmeted driver trying to exit the vehicle. So that's pretty much it I think, except for door bars which will get done after the move...

There is a picture on page 45 of the How to Modify book that shows where to unshroud the valves. That is a rough drawing. If you need to open the chambers up to increase the cc's you can take more metal from a little further around the valve area. Nismark's looks pretty good, but he missed the spark plug threads in the chamber.

OK guys. I think I'm pretty much done with the stuff I wanted to get done before the move. Now I can paint the engine compartment and the bottom and the floor inside. I think I'm still going to leave the cage bare until I get to the new place. Got the patches finished and a dash bar to trans tunnel bar in. Looked at doing the gussets, and they take a good amount of screwing with to make them fit an angle that isn't between 75-90 degrees. More time and effort in that than I want to exert right now. Now its time to clean up and paint the sucker with some Zero Rust...