JMortensen

The wheels he already has are 7.5, but you can squeeze a 9" rim under a stock fender. Especially after looking at Clifton's recent pictures where his 275's were obviously rubbing the inner fender badly I would recommend more than an 8.5 or so, but I did run the Yokohama slick that is the equivalent to that Goodyear on an 8" rim for years. It wasn't "right" that's for sure, but it did work a lot better than some R compound 205/55/14's that I had tried previous to that. Also Tom Holt runs a rear slick which is an 11.5" wide tire on a 10" rim, so it can be made to work. I'd rather see that 11.5" slick on a 12" rim than a 10", but I think if the 9.5" tire would work better Tom would probably be running it...

Jesus... no stone left unturned in this thread!!! First off, I ran a "semi-FP" car like you're planning for about 5 years. I don't mean that in a rude way, but full interior and no flares and streetable spring rates really isn't doing it all the way. What I found was that my car had too much roll and the chassis wasn't stiff enough to really make the slicks work well. Don't get me wrong, it will still be fun to drive and all that, but it isn't going to really compete with a full on FP car. I WOULD STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU GET OVER IT AND HACK UP THE FENDERS AND STRIP THE INTERIOR. I fought that inclination for a long time and have finally given in, and the freedom that comes with commiting the car to racing is really nice, especially when you get into some of your other questions (tires, ackerman, etc). Half assing it just doesn't cut it. You'll always be wondering how good you would have done had you not been carting around 300 extra lbs and running stock fenders. You have a very pretty car. You might consider getting a second one that you can cut and hack and don't need to fuss over, and keep the red one just the way it is. As to the camber plates, they should be fine. You should get them front and rear. If you don't already have camber plates they'll lower the car ~1.25" or so. The TTT units are weld in. If you want something that you don't have to cut to install, the EMI biscuit type will bolt in (I'd suggest the TTT or Ground Control style). Also by the looks of your sig pic I'd say your strut tower bar won't fit with the camber plates, so you'll have to do some modification there. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105666 For tires there is a Goodyear radial FA slick which is a 23x9.5x15 I think. It comes in a R070 compound and R160 compound. R160 is a pretty soft roadracing compound. The R070 should be STICKY! http://www.rogerkrausracing.com/Goodyear/GY1.shtml#FA%20RADIAL There should be other Formula Atlantic tires from other manufacturers, but supposedly Goodyear has the fastest tire right now. If there is a weakness in your setup its probably going to be spinning the inside tire and shock loading the stub axle when you get traction. I would expect that would be your first drivetrain failure. On the brakes you can try an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear, turn the rear brakes all the way up, and then if you still aren't getting much rear brake you can go to dual master cylinders and change the size of the master for the front or rear brakes individually. Smaller master = more pressure and more pedal throw. Steering arm clearance probably refers to the knuckle to rotor clearance. I know Richard (260DET) cut and rewelded his steering arms for Ackerman and that was a concern. Speaking of Ackerman, you should search and read up on it. It is going to be a relatively minor thing, and you can get most of the same effect just by running a bunch of toe out in the front. It's tough to work into a front steer setup like the Z has. You either have to modify the steering arms or move the rack back in relation to the crossmember. I moved the rack back, 260DET cut and rewelded the arms, so both methods have been detailed. Bolt in subframes... This would be a bolt in subframe connector. Search for subframe connector and you'll see many different types. Most people make them from 3x1 or 3x2 tubing, but Bad Dog offers a U channel setup. You could do the Bad Dog ones as a bolt in, but it would be a hell of a lot of bolts. If you manned up and decided to go full race you could just weld them in... Tension control tie rods: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107794 I'm sorry if I ever gave the impression that I don't like the TTT rods. I think they're not the IDEAL solution, but I think the ability to adjust caster is a huge advantage and they provide just one method of doing that. The downside to them is that they relocate the pivot forward, making the TC rod shorter, which makes the arc that it travels more drastic. I went to great lengths to make mine adjustable and keep the pivot in the correct spot. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106974 Control arms: Not much weight savings to be had here. The stock arms just don't weigh much. You can modify your own arms or buy someone else's, but the key is that you want it to be as frictionless as possible, which means rod ends or monoballs or some combo thereof. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105596

Yes. Some figure spacers to be a good idea, but people have run this diff without the spacers without having any problems.

This is going to get ugly quick, so I'm closing the thread.

This whole wrapping the bolt with a piece of metal thing sounds like a huge PITA to me. Mat was able to find the metal. He had to buy a stick that was 6 or 8 feet long, but he made a hundred spacers and sold them to guys like me. I'd find them or leave them out, but trying to make them just seems like a huge hassle.

You have to take the diff out of the car to get the rear cover off. Once you get it off you can compare it to the LSD's in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207

I took apart a 3.7 LSD from a 300ZX and a 200SXT 4.11. The 4.11 had much smaller pinion bearings. Which bearings are you replacing? Pinion or carrier? The carrier bearings were the same. Should be able to get the number off of the old carrier and reference that with a local bearing supply, or you can probably look it up at http://www.timken.com.

Porsche 944 has a cam on the throttle body cable track thingy to slow down the throttle opening. Most racers swap it out for a round one. About 3/4 down the page, this one is for a 924, but same thing is available for 944s. http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_924_engine_induction.html

As close as I can tell there is lead at the top of the A pillars and the top of the B pillars and the bottom of the A pillars. It's pretty common to see paint cracked in this area due to excessive body flexing.

McMaster Carr is not the only game in town. Mat found it online. Some leads (I don't think it would take more than 5 minutes to track it down). http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient-ff&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1B2GGGL_enUS176&q=metric+tube+stainless

Tom and I have been back and forth on this one what, maybe 10 times now? One difference between an R200 and pretty much any other diff you'll open up is that most ring gears are a PRESS FIT on the carrier. You literally have to beat them onto the carrier with a dead blow hammer. On my R200 the ring gear literally fell off of the carrier once the bolts were loose. In addition to clamping the ring gear to the carrier, if the ring gear should slip on the carrier (which again I think is much more likely on our diffs because of the loose fit) then the bolts would take the shear loading between the gear and the carrier. If they are loose then I think a tighter fit between the bolt and the carrier would mean that the bolt would be less likely to shear. If the ring gear spacers were $200 I'd say forget it, but they're not. You can make them cheaply and I still feel it's worth doing.

Old mustangs don't have IRS, most have Ford 8" solid axles, some of the bigger ones have Ford 9" solid axles. As Pop says, do a donut and if it spins both then you might have an LSD.

We don't allow political discussions here. Too much disagreement and it gets ugly quick. Let's keep it focused on the cars with good mileage guys... Matt, I see you're fairly new. Take a minute to read these. Thanks and welcome. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=60&a=2

This FAQ deals with installing a "regular" LSD into a longnose R200. There is some amount of crossover possible. For instance you can use the shortnose R200 KAAZ LSD in the longnose provided you get the diff that replaces the OPEN carrier and not the VLSD replacement. The Q45 LSD's I'm not real sure about. There has been some confusion over how many splines the VLSD that comes in that diff have. I think some had 29 splines and others 30 splines. There were also some that had 13mm ring gear bolts instead of the usual 10 or 12 mm bolts. You'll have to do some research or maybe just open it up and see if everything swaps over.

Inspection is Thursday, and I'll be there going through the whole house with the inspector. I'm going to get a buddy of mine with a forestry degree to go up and look at all the trees on the property too. I know there has been mention of a homeowner warranty. I was kinda figuring on not buying that. I guess I'll have to see what the cost is.

We made an offer on the house with the huge yard, and it was rejected. So then we made plans with our agent to revisit the house with the huge shop, and in the meantime another house popped up on the market. This one was in a much different spot and is actually out of town in the woods, but as it works out the commute for my wife is roughly the same as the first two places. We put in an offer and it was accepted! It's technically Snohomish, but for those in the area it's about 10 minutes East of the 405 on the 522. I'd call it East Bothell or North Woodinville. Anyway its a damn cool house on 1 acre with a 2 car attached garage AND a 2 car detached and heated garage. The detached garage is plumbed for air but the PO has already removed his compressor. It's a VERY large garage and I'm really going to enjoy the extra space. I'm going to take some time to really get it ready before we move, adding shelves and workbenches and leaving space for a full size drill press, my 12 ton press, bandsaw, welder and other crap. I'm pretty stoked. It's a much better option than either of the other houses and the price was within $12K of the others. Escrow closes 4/25. Can't wait! Now the issue is getting the Z over there. I'll have to get the suspension cobbled together enough to put it on a trailer (which I'll need to buy). The suspension won't be a problem, but the real question is how long is my backordered tubing bender going to take to show, and will I be able to finish the cage and paint the underside and inside before moving it...

Summit Racing still has a good deal on the bushings. Give them a call.

A 4 Runner with a 4 cylinder, especially an auto, is bound to be a dog. A 5 speed truck should be A LOT better, but as I said, my friend's Nissan was a little (just a little) faster than mine, and his was the King Cab and mine was standard.

I kind of agree with the above. Bigger is definitely better, there is no doubt about that. However, I've gotten a hell of a lot of projects accomplished on my car with a 5hp 20 gallon 110V oilless compressor. It is certainly not ideal, it is LOUD, and it runs almost constantly when I'm heavy into grinding or cutting on a project, but it has given me the capability to do jobs that I simply wouldn't otherwise have been able to do. But I would not spend $100 on a Snap-On die grinder. I buy most of my air tools (except impact guns) from Harbor Freight and the only issue I've had is the shaft on the die grinders are usually not perfectly straight, which is kind of problematic for porting and polishing heads. Other than that, if it spins the cutoff wheel it's going to cut. It might have to be restarted a couple times when you stall it out on a heavy cut, but that's more than worth the extra $90 expense for the Snap-On or equivalent tool in my opinion. I think the sander is going to be a real problem with a compressor of that size. I bought an electric DA sander for my project. But the cutoff wheel and die grinder will work, although the compressor will run from about 15 seconds after you start the tool. The real question is how much $$$ do you have to put into a compressor. Buy as much as you can afford, and if you can't afford much, then use what you have to its fullest potential.

Grind it as close as you can and use a filler to make it all smooth. This might be the time to use the flanging tool that John Coffey mentioned if at all possible.

It was actually only 3 shims. I think the right side had one thick one, and the left side had one thin and one thick. I was reading the FSM and they said that the shims were available. I haven't tried to order them, but they were at least at one point available. It's just a placeholder, so a closely sized shim from a GM or Ford should be fine too.

A car that gets 30 mpg today does 0-60 in 8 or 9 seconds, compared to 15 seconds back in the day. It also weighs probably 800 to 1000 lbs more due to our crash safety requirements, and has a much more plush interior.

A friend of mine had a 94 Nissan King Cab with the KA24, and I had a 93 Toy with a standard cab and a 22RE. I always got better mileage than him. I put a small cam in mine and 2.25" exhaust and I got 32 mpg averaging 80 mph on a long trip at one point. His was slightly faster though, and the 22RE is not my favorite engine.

I use SWEPCO 201 in my LSD, but before I found out about it I was running your typical auto parts store lube and an LSD additive. Additives are all the same, regardless of whether they're called "Friction Modifier" or "LSD Additive" or whether they say they're for Ford, GM, or Chrysler. VLSD's should require regular gear oil, but will require a different type of fluid inside the LSD, but that LSD works on an entirely different system and the VLSD fluid wouldn't be what you'd want to add to your CLSD gear oil.

Moving this to the Drivetrain forum. I did your writeup for you Pop: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=747227