JMortensen

1. Remove diff (If you can't figure this one out, take your car to a shop and pay them to do the whole thing for you) 2. Remove cover 3. Mark left and right caps and also note top and bottom 4. Check backlash 5. Remove bearing caps 6. Remove carrier and ring gear 7. Keep left and right side carrier shims straight (I zip tied one side together, there were only 3 in my diff) 8. Remove ring gear bolts and ring gear from carrier. 9. Press new bearings onto new carrier 10. Loctite ring gear bolts and install ring gear onto LSD (this is where you would use the ring gear bolt spacers if you made them). Torque to 43-51 lb/ft for 10mm ring gear bolts, 65-72 lb/ft for 12mm ring gear bolts 11. Reinstall carrier into housing with shims. 12. Reinstall main caps on the correct side and rightside up. Torque spec is again 65-72 lb/ft 13. Verify that backlash didn't change 14. Reinstall cover 15. Reinstall diff 16. Add fluid 17. Accelerate out of corners like you never could in your Z before... It's been my experience that the backlash doesn't change notably. It changed .0005" on my own diff, and I've never come across any posts from someone whose backlash needed to be readjusted after installing the LSD. If the backlash did change more than .002 or so, then you just move the carrier to the left or right by adding shims on one side and taking away the same amount on the other side until the backlash is back to where you started. The shims could be ordered from Nissan, or you could take a trip to your local gear shop and see if they have anything close that would work. Pattern won't change substantially because the pinion depth isn't changing. Setting pinion depth is hard to do. Everything else in a diff is pretty easy. This means that installing your LSD is easy. Here is a link to a .pdf with a lot more info about other procedures involved in differential repairs. It shows pictures of measuring backlash, and has generic instructions for all of the gear installation procedures (pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash, carrier bearing preload). http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/HowTo/TechnicalInstructions/Yukon_Installation_Kit.pdf

Well I'm not sure how this is going to play out, but I think the plan is going to be to get make the completion of the sewer and NG a contingency, and then offer close to or the full price. That of course means that they'll need to supply some appliances, as that is part of the NG deal. We'll see if they accept the offer. If not, we're thinking we'll bid on the house with the big ol shop... so its a win-win.

You need to search before you post. That said, you can take any 3.9 R200 and add a cusco or a KAAZ or a Power Brute to it and away you go. The Power Brute is ~$500. Here are two threads to get you started. If all your questions aren't answered here, search and you'll find more info. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115077

I don't think the electric baseboard heaters are cheaper than gas furnace around here. At least that's been my impression. Maybe I should check into that a little more. Solar in Seattle... that's not going to work very well 8 months out of the year.

I got a partial answer locally too, and it's a good one! The gas company will run the gas to the appliances INSIDE the house FREE, if you buy more than 2 appliances (I think they said furnace and water heater). Any additional lines to run are also free at the same time. Good info on the septic, thanks. Talked to my brother-in-law and he said that if we wanted to build a shop on this property that we would need to go to the sewer first because the shop footers would probably be dug right through the leech line area...

The house my wife and I are looking to put an offer on tomorrow has septic and electric heat. Apparently the sewer line is at the end of the driveway and the big fee to hook up to it has been paid. Also the natural gas is at the street and we're thinking we'd like to have that hooked up. So the questions are: 1. Does the septic tank have to be removed? 2. How expensive is it to run the sewer line? 3. Is it a plumber or contractor who runs the NG lines to the house? 4. Once run to the house, how hard is it to install a central heating system? 5. Is it really expensive to run the NG all over the house for gas stove, etc? That's the basics. This might change our minds on which house to buy...

Pretty much anywhere that the exhaust pipe has to be rigidly mounted and the engine is not rigidly mounted would be a good place to use flex pipe. On most exhaust systems the exhaust is hung from rubber hangers and moves with the engine. I don't think you need an X pipe on your 6 cylinder exhaust. You could run one if you wanted, but I think most people just the two pipes separately all the way back on the 6 cylinders. Theoretically it would help scavenge the exhaust gasses better, but it would be a bigger PITA to install I think. I can't tell you why it is used on the 8's so frequently and not the 6's though...

Technically 6 44mm barrels on a set of Mikunis flow WAAAAY more air than an L28 can. Why they work so much better than 40's I can't really say, but they do. Why 50mm ITBs work so much better than 44 carbs is also something of a mystery to me. Absolute flow capacity of a given TB isn't the a good measure of what works the best, that much I know for sure.

Most of us got them from one member here who was nice enough to make a whole bunch of them. He used stainless 12mm OD 10mm ID tubing, and I'm not sure what he used to cut them to length. I would say that it is important not to cut them too long. Too short is not a problem, but too long prevents the ring gear from being tightened down all the way...

It's actually dual zoned and the shop could be a commercial venture. That's not my intention, but it is zoned that way. We went back and looked today, and my wife actually said "I think you like the one with the shop, so I think we should put in an offer." Pretty cool of her. I'm just not 100% yet. No yard bugs me. It's close to the 99 which is the SoCal equivalent of I don't know, being close to Sepulveda Blvd or something like that. Wide 4 lane blvd with lots of crap around. Near to my current house the 99 is littered with signs that say "Don't pull over and get a hooker, we're recording your license plate number" and stuff like that. There is a big building kinda caddy corner that has a bunch of loading bays for semi-trucks. I went over there and asked what they do there and they manufacture pull tabs, which are sorta like lottery scratchers that you buy in bars. They said they get 8-9 trucks in a day. We also talked about converting one of the 3 bays in the lower garage to an office space. It would be easy to do and would make a huge office, plus that part of the garage has access from the driveway and the back yard. The other one just has so much more yard, and so much better living areas inside the house (living room and dining room have better layouts), but doesn't have a good spot for me to do my business and doesn't have a shop. It's only about 3/4 mile from the house with the shop but its a lot more residential, even though you can still hear the 99 pretty good... still mulling it over. I need to make a decision fast, properties we've looked at have been getting snapped up really quickly...

Both houses are near busy streets, but both have double paned glass and are well insulated once inside. The one just will never ever have neighbors behind, which is nice. The wife likes the shop house A LOT. She just likes the yard house with kids in mind. I'm trying to think of this as A house, not THE house. We're not going to die here. I figure we'll probably move again in another 5-7 years to a place I'd actually like to live. Maybe NM next time or something like that. So building a shop at this house is kind of hard to figure on, because we're looking at the top of our price range, which was extended since the beginning of this thread, but still, if we're at the top coming up with enough cash to build a shop is questionable in the short term...

I have pet door locking covers welded into my fenderwells and bedframe in my control arms. I'm sure given enough time I could find a use for a computer case...

Life is weird. After looking and looking and looking we found 2 houses in one day. One has a GIGANTIC yard and deck nice paved RV parking, a small ~200 sq foot outbuilding which is too nice to be a shed but not finished like a house (ad calls it a "studio"), really nice living room and kitchen, small bedrooms, and a very deep 2 car garage with a sink. It backs up to a protected habitat area. The other has NO yard except a small patch of grass that's maybe 400 square feet, but has a 3 car garage AND a huge shop with a big compressor and an industrial heater and swamp cooler. And a mezzanine. And it's own bathroom. And a sink. And the air is plumbed all over the shop. This one backs up to a busy street. The one with the shop also has the better layout for me to run my business from home. I'm going to push hard for that one. I don't think I can really make a mistake here. I really think the big yard house is more resaleable, but damn, that shop is just too good to be true... AND it has a 3 car garage!!!

Actually my problem has been that when I'm crushing them I keep pulling the threads out or else they crush crooked. I know I'm using too much force, but I figured if I got the steel I could really crank down on them and then I could tack a small weld on there and they wouldn't come loose. Maybe I should just practice with the AL ones a bit more and use them...

NOT LSD. IT is as oinojo says a 4.11.

Are they aluminum or steel? I ordered some and got aluminum, I think I'd rather have steel.

I saw this pop up again yesterday, and it occurred to me that someone could just get a 60 degree countersink tool or chamfer and change the taper on the holes...

We had someone sign up just to bash Showcar. That was their very first post, and that is not acceptable. If you search you should find MANY MANY MANY other posts on the subject. I think there was another one that came up yesterday.

I'd buy a $20 dial indicator and make some spacers for the ring gear bolts (12mm OD 10mm ID tubing cut to fit). My backlash changed .0005" when I installed the LSD. I don't think it usually changes enough to worry about it. Once the diff is out installation takes maybe an hour and a half. Really easy. The hardest part should be pressing the new bearings onto the carrier. If for some reason yours is different and the backlash does change to a degree that needs adjusting, then it's a bit tougher because you'll have to find a shim size close enough to work. But I haven't ever seen or heard of that being an issue.

I think that same rule also says 2200 if you have subframe connectors. So really that should probably be my goal, and then at some point I might have to add some bigger flares and try to take advantage of the wider wheels rule...

I'm sure they are just drop shipping it from ST. You'd need to find one in stock. Good luck on that one, I doubt even Z specific places would stock a rear bar.

Well I'll give it a shot, but here in Seattle (judging from their forum) it is as much about being a rules bitch as it is about driving. Freakin hall monitors...

NASA and POC time trials and SCCA F/P, unless the SCCA competition bitches about my shaved drip rails, at which point I'll go O/SP.

Not really keeping track. I know the SFC's were ~12 lbs. This was ~7. I added about a 1lb to each control arm, and probably another 2 lbs with my toe adjuster. But to counter that I've stripped the interior. I think I'm limited to 2200 lbs to run F/P if I decide to do that, and if I just go for broke and screw the rules I think I'll be able to get under 2100 lbs with the completed cage. That's the goal anyway. Might have to pick up some of John Coffey's body panels to get there...

Nice. I love bobbed Toyotas. These guys that used to live next door to me in CA were always bobbing a truck or converting it to 1/4 elliptical springs or 4 links or some funky thing. They even built a Toyota based version of the Scorpion if you remember that truck from the late 90s...