JMortensen

I know what you mean, and I agree that stock drilled rotors on a Z are really not a good idea. I was just sticking up for the idea of drilled rotors in general. Side note; have you ever seen the rear rotors on Pinky (the Hales' 510)??? Talk about swiss cheese...

Drilling reduces the weight of the rotor. Less rotating weight = faster acceleration and less inertia to decelerate as well. It's a win win situation, assuming the rotors are big enough. I ran the Brembo drilled rotors for years and abused the hell out of them and never warped a rotor and never had a crack either. In retrospect I think drilling on stock rotors is probably a mistake, especially in the front, because it reduces the mass of the rotor and that also reduces the amount of heat the rotor can absorb before overheating and I was constantly boiling my brake fluid. Still I think there is a justifiable reason for drilling, and I think that's why you still see Ferraris and Porsches with drilled rotors.

They actually hit the rocker panels, not the floor. Pics in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102715 I decided that Mr Coffey is right and I'm not going to do anymore gussetting underneath. Just drilling a couple holes in frame rails to spray Zero Rust in and grinding off a couple of unused brackets, then its time to paint the underside...

Mine is a 15" and my waist is 34". I'm about 6' and 190 lbs, and mine fits me perfectly. You should stand up to measure your hips, but I think you should be in a 14" judging by your previous post. When I ordered mine they also wanted your torso 1" under your armpits.

Did you read my thread on the Ultra Shield? Might help with some of your issues. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103817 You can change the angle of the seat a bit by raising the front or lowering the rear. I personally wouldn't go with a 20 degree seat though, to me that feels like I'm laying down. It's a preference thing though, so that may be fine for you. If you're going to mount it on sliders you need the mounts SHORT. I made mine from 1" square tubing and it came out just right. If you go too tall you'll be in trouble. Whatever you do, tack it in and make sure its right before you weld stuff together. If you're not going to mount the seat on sliders it should be a lot simpler.

The guys I used to race with are now in this series. http://www.maximummotorsports.com When I was racing against them I could beat their Mustang by a good couple seconds. Last time we were at the same time trial I think I had 4 seconds over their car. This is no longer the case. They are now beating my old time by over 10 seconds! They've gotten a hell of a lot faster, and have a lot of aero mods that they didn't have back in the day. I don't think that it is too hard to get a license. I think you just have to attend a couple schools. Should be able to find that info on the SCCA website. To make the car competitive I think you'll be looking at a pretty good chunk of change, and many many weekends in the garage. All that said, it does look like a lot of fun! I'd go with the Mustang, and I'd use a lot of Maximum Motorsports parts. Those guys were really able to do some amazing things with their Stangs.

That's an interesting setup Don. Thanks for the pics, even if they're late for me they'll probably help someone else. Welcome to the site!

I'm pretty amazed at how clean zinc coating looks. Really nice stuff there!

Agreed. There is not even any serious competition for Terry's car in my opinion. Terry's car has it on top, and also underneath. That makes it a lot sexier than another car that just has a bunch of fiberglass body parts on it.

I know that it can be done, I don't know that anyone suggests that it be done. The metal headgaskets are layered, so you can just peel the layers apart. As long as you're careful and don't kink the gasket, what's the problem? I think Dan Baldwin did this on his motor to get a custom thickness gasket.

I'm waiting to blow up my L6 before I do a V8 swap, but there really is a lot of NA info here. Search the L6 forum for member names like BRAAP, johnc, Dan Baldwin, briann510, katman, 1 fast z, Mack and DAW and you'll find a ton of arguments and even more good information. Some of us go for the big bucks, some have garage built motors. I built mine in my garage, just had the machine shop hone the block and deck the head and do the valve job. Did all the porting and chamber work myself and prepped the block and all that too. Search and you will find what you're looking for. One suggestion I would make is to get rid of the stock FI if your local smog rules allow for it. All of the components are so old and the connectors are all F'ed up, and they have the restrictive AFM and batch fire. They're really pretty crappy. I'd sooner swap in SU's than run a stock injection setup. MSnS would be another good option.

Actually camber plates will lower the front because they get rid of the large rubber insulator. Probably drop it 1" to 1.5". If you add or subtract BELOW the spindle, like with bumpsteer spacers, then it has no effect on ride height. Add or subtract ABOVE the spindle, like eliminating the insulator or sectioning the strut, and it does affect ride height. Basically from the ground to the spindle the size of the wheel determines the height, and from the spindle up the suspension lengths and all that determine the distance from the spindle to the body of the car.

It's been a while since I sectioned mine, but that should be correct.

The Illumina BZ3099 is the MR2 insert and is the right size, I think the VW insert is the same length.

Then you can buy them from the dealer afterwards, if you like white instead of maroon.

I am not aware of any commonly available strut insert that is shorter than about 1.625" or so than the stock 240Z. They may be out there, but I'm not aware of any.

Looked pretty fast to me! I'm impressed with the speed, if not the looks or the price tag.

No, but a vendor who sells the parts should be able to give you that information.

No, I'm sorry. I haven't looked into it because it just wasn't an issue for me. Try Jegs, Summit Racing, etc. I believe most of the fill plates are interchangeable.

When I was running SU's I just dead headed the fuel line at the carbs and didn't run a return line at all. I switched because I figured out it was the stock fuel rail and the mechanical pump that was causing the gas to boil. Both would get too hot to touch on a hot day. I ran a rubber hose from the fuel filter across the radiator core support and then back to the SU's. I can't remember the specifics, but there was a Y that split it from the main feed line to each of the carbs. That was it. It was really simple. I didn't even remove the return line, I just clamped a small bolt in the rubber hose on the end after I realized that gas was coming out under hard braking. The downside to not running a return line is that it is harder on the pump. If you do decide to run a return just realize that the restricted orifice in the stock fuel rail is the pressure regulator. So by changing the size of the hole you'll change the fuel pressure to the carbs. You'll probably have to mess around with the hole size before you get it dialed in. If you dead head it then you just use a regulator in the feed line and that's it.

No sender. I think you can get a different fill plate that allows for a sender. I'll just fill it between sessions since this it isn't going to be on the street anymore. Thanks buzy!

You can also buy it from the Nissan dealer, or the used car dealer. When you add nitrous and do all the engine mods let me know and I'll dig up some old lap times. I had EVERYTHING on mine and was going pretty fast with it. Haven't played it in a long time...

Do a search and you'll find lots of info on gaskets. The HKS metal gaskets are great but require copper spray sealer. The Nissan gasket is very good. Fel Pro = failure prone. The Fel Pro is also a 1mm gasket which is .040" thick, so it increases compression. Stock is 1.25mm or about .052" thick if I'm remembering correctly.

Lotta stuff going on right now with the wife taking flights to interviews and lots of checking real estate prices and crap like that. I'll have this figured out very soon, but not yet. A couple more weeks I figure. It's not going to be Boise. The wife pretty much put her foot down on that one...

I beat my brother's mid 80's 944 in my 93 Toyota P/U in a drag race to about 80. That pissed him off pretty good. Shouldn't be hard for you to blow your friend's doors off with a Z, even stock or just barely modded. Take a look at the FAQ's regarding turbo Zs. There are some good threads for NA buildups as well. 200 whp in a Z and you'll leave your friend in the dust.