JMortensen

OK, now I got you. Thanks.

Yep, that's the same flare all right. They're still sending out the 1984 catalog too. Classic stuff! I dig the old T shirts they've got for sale... It's like a time capsule back to 1984, redneck style. Reminded me of when I was a little kid and they had the "Iron-on" store where you could go and buy a shirt and get that crappy iron on that lasted about 2 weeks put on to customize it...

My car is going to be so low that I'm going to try and use John Coffey's method of making sure the wheel can come up 6" from the top of the tread before it hits the fender. I think that 1/2" rule is fine for stock height vehicles or vehicles without sectioned struts, but if you don't cut enough then the tire can hit the fender underneath the flare. This is discussed a bit in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113064&page=2

I don't know for sure that they're terribly fragile. I know that the racing 911 I used to work on was constantly cracking the rear widebody flares, and they were a similar thickness. The front flares are 2" I think. I know they make a box flare as well, I think that one is a 2" flare. Not sure on that though. I'm sure they could tell you if you called them. As far as fit and finish goes, this is my first experience with fiberglass so I don't have any comparison to make, but I would say that they are longer than the standard wheel arch. They are also fairly flexible, so I think they'll bolt up without any problem, and when they get tightened they look like they'll match up pretty good. The exterior surface is pretty porous and I don't think it would look terribly smooth if you just painted it as is. I think for a nice finished look it would need a skim coating to smooth it out. I'll be bolting them on like a ZG just so I can swap one out if I ever have to, but they look like they could be molded in pretty easily if someone were so inclined.

Here is that info on the MAS flare. For street the MSA flare is the better choice: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=729448#post729448

I bought these based on this thread over at classiczcars.com: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23482. They are as the thread says "race weight" flares, and they are MAYBE 1/8" thick. Based on the pattern of the glass on the backside of the piece I believe these are made with a chopper gun (can someone verify that?) The box weighed A LOT more than the flares inside, all 4 flares might weigh 2 lbs combined. Probably not a good choice if you're driving on the street, and I'm sure I'll have to warn people not to lean on them. At $65 per pair the price was right, and if I bust one up so bad I need to replace it I won't shed a tear over it. They are a 3" bubble flare. I got rears for the front and back, just like the guy in Fresno. They go all the way down to the bottom of the corner. I know I'm going to have to modify them a lot to get them closer to fitting in the front, I'm hoping I can just hack it straight off, and then modify an airdam to match up to the flare (also thinking of trying to build the front of the flare out so that it covers the whole front of the tire. But that's a later project. I got these now because I need to paint the underside of the car and I figured that I'd better cut up the wheel wells and THEN paint, rather than painting then going back in and cutting the wheel wells. My tentative plan is to cut the wheel arch and use a hammer and dolly to push the fender well out and then weld it straight to the outer lip, a la blueovalz. I'll provide pics as it progresses. Wheel plans with this are going to be 15x10's. Still not sure which tires I'm going to run. I'm considering running O/SP with the new 275/35/15 tire, or possibly running F/P (or E/M if there are any real sticklers for the rules--car is slightly illegal for Prepared because I cut off the rain gutters) using a 11.5x23.5x15 Goodyear slick. I'd like to have the rears tucked under the flares about an inch, and then I want to run spacers up front to make the track wider up front. If anyone knows the offset that would get that done, I'd appreciate that info. I suck with all of that offset stuff, and I was thinking about ordering some Diamond Racing wheels pretty soon here since they're cheap. MAS Racing Products 2288 University Ave St. Paul, MN 55114 ph: 651-644-6811 fax: 651-644-1635

Move the front jackstands to the TC rod boxes and that will let the weight of the engine flex the front of the car, if you're so inclined. You might check your door gaps with the jackstands in both places and see if it makes a difference, and then choose that way...

This setup would make me more inclined to run a LARGE camshaft, and rev the CRAP out of it. That's what I would do anyway...

You guys seem to be pretty well on top of this stuff, but I would point out that those tests are done with vacuum, but your head is going to flow differently with pressure. Any idea how the flow numbers react with boost in the intake manifold? I'm not an expert by any means, but I did read that the intake manifold is apparently the restriction on the KA. Since you will be cramming air into the cylinders you may find that there is an advantage to the increased lift since the limiting factor of the manifold won't be as big a deal.

I don't know much about cams for DOHC heads, but that sounds like the cam is small, even the regrind. Is that lift you're quoting before the rocker ratio? What is the rocker ratio on the KA head?

I read the latest Hot Rod Magazine and they do a wind tunnel test in NC (same place, I think so?). Anyway they test at 85 mph, then extrapolate up to whatever mph you are interested in. So don't worry about the car blowing away. By the way they got a late 70s Camaro with a giant hood scoop down to .201 Cd. Pretty interesting article, if not terribly detailed...

Should be 387.5rwhp based on the increase in displacement. Hopefully you guys will be using it to better advantage than that. Bigger cams, bigger turbo, more boost, etc.

The point is not to make likable or clever titles. The point is to make the issue that the thread deals with clear, so that people searching know what it is. I can't remember what the original title was, but I think it was "You know what?" or something like that. If you're searching for, I don't know, fuel injector sizes and you come across "You know what?" you have to either assume that it isn't of interest or open it to find out. But when you search for fuel injector sizes and you come across "LS swap is more powerful, more driveable than L6!" you DON'T have to open it to find out what it is. THAT is what we're shooting for. Sounds like you don't like the thread, not that you don't like the title.

I would not imagine that what you did is going to really twist much of anything. You can use Alex's suggestion to check, but that doesn't really tell you how far anything moved, it tells you more about how flexible the chassis is. I know this isn't totally the same situation, but I was watching that Muscle Car show on Spike a couple weekends ago and the guy was saying he liked to weld in subframe connectors with the car on jackstands because it sagged the car the opposite direction. On mine when I used to set the front end down on jack stands (with the jackstands on the TC buckets) you could watch the front frame rails sag down. This guy basically said that when the car is on it's wheels it is sagging the other way, so by welding them in with the car on jackstands you would eliminate most of that. He also showed how the door gap improved and how the front clip needed readjustment after installation. I think the important thing is to eliminate the flexing. If the chassis is sagged 1/4" one way or the other I doubt you'd notice until you started some hardcore autoxing or road racing, if you even noticed at all.

You're right Cameron, but in order to use it like a turnbuckle (which one would assume is the point) then you need to move it 360*. You could just pull the inner control arm bolt, move the inner pivot 180 and put it back, but then you're even farther from "on the car" adjustability.

That would SUCK!!!

I bought an "RPM Superkit" for my 280ZX 5 speed. I don't think the dealer sells a kit, so you would have to order each part individually. I think the RPM Superkit is pretty widely available. I was working for a dealership at the time and just asked the parts dept to see what they could find and that's what they came up with. From previous threads I have gotten the impression that the Nachi bearings it came with were OEM quality replacement bearings. Seals and synchros look good too, haven't installed it yet even though I bought it 10 years ago now.