JMortensen

I see. So did you use the John's Cars mounts and modify the placement, or did you fab your own? Maybe I need to read your swap thread...

Why is carbed harder? I understand why using a different transmission changes things, but the carb should just mean that you have to figure out a cable setup to the pedal and an aftermarket box for the ignition, right?

I think this is the idea Tony C had in mind: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111435

Good to know. There was some doubt as to whether his rear kit that I purchased would work with cars that didn't use Honda adapters. Now if it doesn't work, I know where I can go to see if he'll make it right...

The softer springs go in front. The more winds the less spring rate if the wire is the same diameter.

The strut tower has a thick plate just inside of the sheet metal which is probably .100" or so thick. I just turned the welder up and burned through to the thicker plate, so I didn't feel the extra piece was necessary. I had also screwed it up several times before I got it right, so I was about done screwing with it when I welded mine in. I had tried to weld the bar in without cleaning off the mill scale once and it just came out terrible, so I cut that off then tried again and cut the angles on the bar the same way on both sides... DUH!

I've already got an LSD and I've got lots of other things I could do with $1200. It is a good deal though Jay, and better than the modified Nissan LSD I have now. Snap it up if you have the cash.

Not really. It's easy to keep a stock Z going, but it's also boring. Seems to me to be pretty logical that 33% of the Z's here are preparing to haul some serious ass! That's what we're all here for, right?

They worked for a little bit, but you're right, not anymore. I don't know why that happens, but it does. As Phyxius says, just type "EP" or "L6 cam" into the search box at the top of the screen and you'll be good to go.

Have you considered any clutch LSD alternatives? This thread has a breakdown of most of them: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 You can get the Power Brute for ~$500. I'd rather have it than a Quaife on an autox car...

My guess is a bad gauge or a bad sender. Like Tony C suggested, install a mechanical gauge and see what it says, then you'll know for sure. The Z, once outfitted with a 3 core or better radiator, really isn't prone to overheating. I had a 3 core brass radiator and ran my car at the road course in 30 minute sessions for 2+ hours in 105 degree heat. My mechanical gauge never showed over 205 degrees. While they do have problems with vapor lock, overheating is much less of an issue.

How are you going to go with the JSK setup? Is he back in production?

Searching "E Production" came up with a bunch of crap, because the search function dropped the E and just looked for "Production". Searching "EP" came up with the following: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=761947 Searching "L6 cam" came up with plenty of good info: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=761953

http://www.drivetrain.com/transmanualrebuildkit.html#NISSAN

I don't know what the stock studs are, but the RX7 ones that I got from the local auto parts store were metric grade 10.9, which is roughly equivalent to SAE Grade 8.

Mine ran fine when I tore it down, but when I'm done it will go, stop, and turn a lot better. Been down for 3 years. Depending on how things go will probably be done within a year. It's finally starting to go back together instead of tearing it further apart.

You can just cut the end off of a closed lug nut, that's one solution anyway. There are also 2nd gen RX7 studs, which are about an inch longer than stock and the knurl is correct. Here is a pic: If you're using Nissan wheels they have that funky shank diameter that doesn't fit the lug nuts you buy at the auto parts store. Solution is to get some Toyota 4x4 lug nuts from a tire store. They are the correct 12 x 1.5 and have the right shoulder size to center a Nissan wheel.

Victoracers or Toyo Proxes would be my recommendations. I'd avoid the Yokohama A032Rs (sucky tire and noisy as hell when you put any camber into them), and also any of the really thin DOT tires which don't have enough rubber to put any street miles on like Hoosier or the Kuhmo V710. I have friends that used to drive their 510 on Victoracers and they'd get ~5000 miles out of a set while autoxing every month too. I seriously doubt that a drag radial is going to be a good choice for autox or HPDE, so I'd avoid those as well.

Shorter springs in front. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23673

Or you could get the Power Brute which has 3 clutches per side instead of one like the stock LSD. Or a KAAZ which has more, I think 5 or 6 clutches per side...

OK, I'm done cutting and welding. Ended up cutting with a cutoff wheel. Worked a lot better than my cheesy air body saw. The whole cutting and welding thing was pretty scary to me a few years ago, but since I've gotten more experience this project didn't phase me at all. It was really pretty easy. One question for all those who have done this before? How do you "dress" the edge of the fender. Do you just leave the raw weld there? It's not like anyone is going to see it, but I kinda feel like something more should be done to finish it off above and beyond just painting...

It's not attaching to the strut tower. All those bars attach to the main hoop for the cage. A cage is stronger and stiffer if the bars attach to a "node" than if they just attach to any old place in the cage. Thanks for the pics Pete.

There's not any inherent problem with wider tires in the back, especially for high hp applications. It's just that a wider front track will turn better, and most of the really wide rear end Z cars with narrower front ends don't turn very well. It's not a set in stone rule, but it's generally true.

Jelloman. you have to understand that we get a lot of idiots who come in here trying to tell us why V8's make Z's handle poorly and that kind of thing. You just said something that was interpreted incorrectly right out of the gate. Don't take it personal. We're here to help. Welcome to our home. Search before you post, read the rules, and you'll be fine. There is a TON of good info here, it is the best car forum I've come across.

GT2. You seem to be a stickler for build quality, so I don't know that another Vette or a hopped up econobox WRX is going to please you. E36 is too similar to the car you couldn't connect with. GT2 is an extremely fast car around a road course, and has German engineering and style to boot.