JMortensen

I don't think they're 10mm thicker. I've got some 240 and 280 hubs out in the garage. Maybe I'll head out there in a bit and compare the two. I know the backside where the rotor bolts up is different, so that alone makes them unswappable due to caliper/rotor offset differences.

You ever think to yourself: "5999 posts on Hybrid Z, my how the time flies" and then think "What if I only posted 3000 times, and put all that time spent on the other 2999 posts into actually WORKING ON THE DAMN CAR!?!" Yeah probably not, seeing how I think I have taken Tim240z's title as "Official Hybrid Z Post Whore" and I don't think too many others have wasted as much time here as the two of us... Oh well. I guess it was worth it. This is the best damn car site on the web.

I'm pretty sure the factory clutches are NLA. I think we had someone checking on Power Brute clutches (bjhines???) and we never heard back about it. Phyxius's deal was an incredible bargain and I was really surprised at how few people took advantage of it.

The AZC 12" brakes fit most but not all 15" wheels too.

They are different and this is why you need 280 hubs for the Wilwood brake setups. I believe the 280 hubs are 10mm different than the 240s.

All you need are good lugcentric spacers for a Z. As said so many times, Z wheels are not hubcentric, so it really doesn't make a difference if the spacers are. Wheel spacers are not the problem here, it's the WRONG wheel spacer that caused this issue in my opinion. I have had issue with the cheapo spacers that you buy at the auto parts store as well, as they are hubcentric and the center hole is just a gnat's ass too small. Over a period of time these also failed, although the only damage was to the spacer. When I went to a lugcentric quality spacer I never had another problem, and I've worked on stockish and race Porsches with WIDE lugcentric spacers as well and never seen or heard of a problem there. One was running a 335/35/18 at 170+ mph on a road course with a 1.5" or 2" spacer. Never changed the spacers, never had any problems with them either.

You can run it to a catch can if you don't want to run it back to the intake, but it HAS to have a vent, otherwise you'll pressurize the crankcase and leak oil from every seal in the engine. This happens immediately, not over a period of time.

To be fair to AZC, there is an ADJUSTABLE proportioning valve in there which can supply more pressure to the rears. It's still blingy overkill at the expense of rotating weight in my opinion.

Strotter, everything else being equal I think you are right. So the question then is really how big you need to go to get to that point, and then how small can you get them beyond that point and not have problems with boiling fluid and chunking pad material, etc. Basically on brakes (and wheels) you want the smallest thing that works, because it's all rotating weight. The bigger it is the larger a lever it is, meaning it is harder to accelerate and decelerate a 50 lb hub/brake/wheel/tire combo that is 26" in diameter than one that is 22" in diameter. That's not the most popular position, but it is mine. Every time this subject comes up I think back to about 10 or 12 years ago... anyone else remember when AZC advertised the 12" brakes "For Z cars that regularly see over 200 mph"? I wonder if the 13" are for Z's that regularly see 250 mph... Maybe there will be a 14" set for 300 mph Z's.

Definitely not. They aren't even close to holding the suspension in a lowered position, and it's pretty clear that the halfshafts don't have a lot of length to them. It seems pretty clear that they're droop limiters to keep the halfshafts from coming apart.

And here I was thinking Dave came out with that setup because Ross had something bigger and he was trying to cater to the bigger is better crowd. This is the key to selling parts in my opinion. Nobody does that better than Dave.

I don't think there is a factory turbo manifold WITHOUT square ports.

Hey no problem! Just one other thing, I wouldn't take too much off. I think 2126 said he took 5/8". Bottom line is you need it to extend far enough so that the strut extends all the way and the STRUT should be what stops the suspension extending. If you cut it too short then you'll have problems.

So you haven't found anyone to machine the new snap ring groove? That's an easy one to get past. My solution was going to be to tack weld the end piece on. It's not like you need to take it off to assemble the halfshaft, and that piece doesn't take a whole lot of beating either, it basically just makes sure that the balls don't roll off the end of the shaft. So then all you need is a bandsaw to cut the shaft and a welder to tack the end back on.

What I did to the control arm was to reduce friction in the suspension. You don't want to do that for toe adjustment, because it is far too coarse. There is a good explanation of why this isn't for toe adjustment at the end of the thread: From page 11 of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 If you want to adjust toe, do a "poor man's toe adjuster" like these: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89111 This is actually a much easier project than modifying the control arm too, so its a win-win.

I think Dan Baldwin ran 2" SUs before he went to SK triples. Maybe he'll comment...

You have a point, I may be wrong. I seem to remember people running extremely thin air filters with the Weber and 4bbl setups, and hearing that hood clearance is an issue. Looking at AZC's website it looks as though a 2" air cleaner fits under a stock hood unless you have a '77 or '78.

Why not just shorten a stock halfshaft or have a custom CV shaft made? I had a plan to shorten a stock halfshaft and had it all planned out. Before I did it I decided to go with a CV shaft, but 2126 here did come forward and say that he had done pretty much exactly the same thing that I was planning on doing and had been running his car like that for years. If you look you may find that old thread, probably 3 years old now. Or you could PM 2126 and he might tell you what is necessary. Alternatively you could raise the diff. Seen this done with nothing more than a custom front diff mount and a couple holes drilled in the mustache bar. As a 3rd option you could install some longer control arms in the back. http://www.modernmotorsports.com has them, as does http://www.arizonazcar.com and others. Putting 280 insulators on will raise the back of the car, but won't give you any more suspension travel. The better way to raise the car if you go that route is with a taller spring. I don't think I'd go that way though.

You guys are right. Way back when I was running K&N filters, and that's why mine were just hanging. No place to hook em to.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/westcoastzracer/ It's usually pretty dead, but occasionally it has some interesting threads.

These are float bowl vents. Do not plug them. I had a length of hose on mine jjust to keep dirt and debris from going into the float bowls, but I just had my hoses hanging loose. This is a little cheesy, but it isn't going to hurt anything. Someone took off all of the smog stuff and just connected the two nipples together. You could leave it or plug the holes. The big nipple on the back of the air cleaner housing is related to the PCV system. You can hook the block breather up to the air cleaner again with the big hose. I can't recall what the smaller ones do, I think one connects to that hard line on the driver's side frame rail which is a gas tank vent line if I remember properly. This is either for the heater hoses or an aftermarket AC system that was removed. I'm just feeling too lazy to run outside and verify on my car, but it should be pretty evident which it is. No clue. As said before this is a gas tank vent line, needs to be routed to air cleaner.

Your seller wouldn't happen to be Bill Baker, would he? He was talking about one on another board, sounded like a fun car.

The problem with the Webers is that you'll need to have them mounted higher than the hood in order to make a manifold that doesn't do that question mark shape, and that is the part that makes the Cannon manifold suck so bad. Maybe try to find a side draft carb to adapt that you can make your manifold for, or make a header instead.

AZC has the newer stuff with the upside down piston and the older stuff was your typical coilover where you welded a perch to the stock strut housing and set a threaded adjuster on top of the perch. Apparently he is no longer selling the older style coilover setup.

That does seem like a pretty kick ass tire size. I like the 22.5" tall part, keeps the car nice and low.