JMortensen

Yes. I sent some to my friend with 280ZX struts in his 510 and he installed them without any trouble.

Changing the title. Try to make it so that we don't have to open the thread to know what it is about.

This is in the wrong forum, moving to the BWSC forum. As has been suggested, the Cosmo stuff has been hashed out before, and there are other options out there. A search (in the right forum, you're not going to find much in the L6 forum) would yield a lot of information.

The fronts are the same length as stock 280ZX fronts. The rears are totally different and don't interchange.

I suppose that depends. I was able to shape the metal by putting it in a vise and pushing on it with my hand. If you get someone with a super duper metal shaper that takes 8 hours to match the contours on a part that isn't going to be exposed when the car is together, I suppose the labor may cost you something. The flat part on top should be easy to do, and the front section is under the fender, so just don't let them be to anal about getting it just right and you should be fine.

They've done the mysterious order cancellation with me as well, I think twice in the past couple years and I was ordering quite frequently there for a while. They're kinda hard to deal with sometimes, and their tools aren't top quality to be sure, but you can't beat some of the deals they have and I am more than willing to put up with the crappy service from time to time. My project would be nowhere near where it is now without HF...

Mine looked just like that, but on the inside was CLEAN. Really the only parts that were bad were the doglegs in the back and the flat area in the front that collects all the crap out of the cowl drain. I patched a couple holes in the front and replaced the doglegs, and there really isn't any reason to get into the center. I seem to remember yours were really clean inside too. If that is correct I'd just treat the rust that is there, replace any areas where there are holes and call it a day.

Yes, definitely. It might very well be full up to the bottom of the master.

Just work around the valves to unshroud them. Get the How to Modify book, it has pictures of where to remove the metal from. There is no quench pad in the N42 head, and you can't really improve that aspect by taking metal away, so don't worry about quench. Apparently you can get a bit more quench if you shave the crap out of the head, but then you'd be upping the compression ratio a lot, so that's a step back for you.

I guess the primary thing that needs air is the driver then??? I know the engine is back there, but just installing a hole in the fender isn't going to help anything. Maybe there is some ducting we can't see to cool the engine or supply air to the intake or something, but I don't see a point to running a vent there without some other ducting. I know I'm being nit-picky and arguing the effect of what was done isn't the point of this thread, I just hate seeing faux or even worse, useless vents on cars.

One more in line to congratulate you!

Have you all seen the NASCAR Car of Tomorrow (COT)? Butt ugly thing, but they recessed the splitter and in doing so left a lip right above it. I think the idea there is that it will be largely protected by the "bumper" above it, and the splitter itself will still produce downforce. Might take a look and see if you can determine what shapes they used on the bottom lip for the bumper, because that seems like it would be important. I would tend to think you would want to radius the BOTTOM of the Y area, and the bottom of the grill opening as well, and would want a sharp area at the hood and at the top of the lower opening. My thought is that this would be more inclined to keep the flow attached to the lower surface that you want pressure on, and less inclined to have attached flow on the upper surface. That's a WAG though...

Tying subframe connectors to the rockers is a good idea. The stock vehicle uses the rockers for strength. We tend to focus on big huge SFCs, but largely ignore the rockers. There have been some discussions on how to strengthen the rockers in the past 6 or 8 months and you can search and find them. I think it's worth your while to do so. Here's one to whet your appetite: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112581

Those welds look like you are moving too fast to me. Turn the wire speed down a bit and go slower. Also for a pattern I like to do a series of curves back and forth as I go along like )))))))))))))) but you can also do circles or NNNNNNNNNN or whatever works for you. My take on the MM135 suggested settings is that they're a little low on the voltage and a little high on the wire speed. Last thing is that you should weld some stuff together and then cut the weld in half and look for pitting and inclusions and that sort of thing. You can also weld two pipes together and put them in a vise and beat the crap out of them with a BFH and see if you can break them apart.

You mean low.

Hey thanks guys! Mine was actually pretty tolerable, you could have a conversation with a passenger without yelling. Did have a drone at ~2000 rpms, but I just didn't drive it at that rpm and that solved that problem.

MSA POS 6-1 header into 2.5 into Dynomax Super Turbo. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=15578&cat=500&ppuser=5121

My family moved to Agoura when I was 1 year old in 76. I graduated from Agoura High in '92! Kanan was flanked by pastures with cows grazing, and TO Blvd stopped at Reyes Adobe I think. Used to have to shop for groceries at Whizins when I was really little. Used to ride dirt bikes up past Oak Park High (probably didn't exist when you were there Greg) and 4x4 with the family back in the North Ranch area. A friend of mine has a picture of him and his dad walking in a field and in that spot and it's now right dead center of Kanan Road. I had my own experiences with my favorite canyon roads, which were Decker, Latigo, and Stunt Rd. I had a special affinity for Decker, which was right in your backyard Greg. I guess they went through and repaved it recently, but I liked it when the road was all chewed up. That is one hell of a stretch of asphalt...

Air ducts for... the tires??? I saw at the end where it looked like he hooked up some brake ducts in the front, but I don't see a real purpose to all that work in the back. Guess I just like my stuff to function.

As far as power to weight and bug potential goes, I used to autox with 3 Meyers Manx's and they HAULED ASS! They all had bug or Type IV motors, the fastest one had something like 200 hp. They ran 13" slicks, 10" in rear and 8" in front, and I consistently ran right in the middle of them. Usually I'd beat 2 out of the 3, but that white one was pretty damn fast. The guys who ran them were all really cool, they drag raced too and all of them were sub 12 seconds I think. One day one of the guys was working the course right next to me, told me he had LESS THAN $5K in his Manx... Power to weight and bang for the buck right there...

I had the slots on the crossmember for years, they never budged. Plenty of guys use slotted crossmembers on 510s, so I kinda never saw a big problem with it, and haven't had a problem in use. I haven't had the TC rods on the track like that, but I don't anticipate any problems there either, plus my plan is to start them at the top and then work my way down if needed, so they may just stay up forever. If I ever do see them slip, I'll get some of those serrated plates and weld them in. I think there is a link to them in the TC thread, if not there are some linked in this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457

Here's mine: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106974&page=5

To compare I had a medium cam (.490/280) and mine pooped out around 6000, it would go to 7000 but there wasn't much point. Put triples on it and it would slam the 7000 rev limiter.

I remember when I was 17 me and my buddy used to like to see how far we could coast our cars. We were in his diesel Rabbit and going down a long hill on the 23 freeway near Moorpark, CA and he turned the car off and pulled the key out of the ignition and put the keys in his pocket. Then I reminded him calmly that he wouldn't be able to steer, and he managed to get the keys back in before we went off the side of the highway. What stupid kids we were! That didn't seem to be the case in the video though, because they made the turn previous to going off the road. Unless it just didn't quite click in on the right hander and did on the left... if that's the case, they deserved what they got!!!

I'm OK with this chart up until the 280ZX. It doesn't show the 260 2+2 MT which was a 3.36 R200, but none of the charts show that option. I know the 79's had the earlier trans, but I thought that all MTs came with R200s, and the 79 came with 3.54s. Then everything 80 and later was 3.90, with 3.54 on the AT and turbo. Never heard of a manual with a 3.36 or a manual with a 3.70 on a ZX. Is this list US market, or all markets? Or was I just unaware of some of the possible combos available. Regardless, the last one on the list was what I had. 80 MT 3.90 R200.