JMortensen

That would SUCK!!!

I bought an "RPM Superkit" for my 280ZX 5 speed. I don't think the dealer sells a kit, so you would have to order each part individually. I think the RPM Superkit is pretty widely available. I was working for a dealership at the time and just asked the parts dept to see what they could find and that's what they came up with. From previous threads I have gotten the impression that the Nachi bearings it came with were OEM quality replacement bearings. Seals and synchros look good too, haven't installed it yet even though I bought it 10 years ago now.

The forum database won't let you capitalize everything in a post, so it instead capitalizes the first letter of every word. Since I've already posted with a bunch of non-capitalized words, I CAN NOW CAPITALIZE JUST A PORTION OF A THREAD FOR EMPHASIS. Don't know why they do that, but this is not the only forum software that I've seen that has this function.

No kidding. Front Page blows chunks, pages won't be syntactically (is that a word?) correct and therefore not viewable for all browsers, adds 500% more tags than necessary, etc. Avoid it at all costs!!!

Nah, takes me YEARS to do this crap, so I have the bill spreads out... Thanks, though!

I don't know what tie rod people are using to replace the ball joint, but it looks pretty beefy to me. It looks like it is 3/4" threads, probably off of a big ass truck. I've never heard of anyone complaining about the older AZC arms, FWIW. I do agree about the adjustment; you obviously need to disconnect the TC rod, and you obviously need to go around 360*. The only other comment I have is that there was another thread where it was pointed out that the TC rod itself has the most strength (takes the least side load) when it points directly at the ball joint. If you notice neither of these aftermarket arms has that angle "right".

I'm not seeing it.

What are the specs on the cam you had ground? Hard for us to say if it will make a difference without knowing that. If it's big enough to make a difference, then it will make a difference. If it is really tiny like a Schneider stage 1 you might not notice any difference at all. You can swap out the lash pads with the cam in place. What you do is loosen up the adjuster, remove the mousetrap springs, turn the cam so the lobe is away from the rocker, then pry the rocker off to one side and pop it off the ball end.

There is a bump inside the floor where the frame rail attaches. I think if you hammered the tabs flat on the inside you'd distort the crap out of the floorpan. I still think you guys are fixing a problem that doesn't exist, and although I have no doubt that the ribs would stiffen the structure, I just don't think they're necessary, and Pete's larger rails are easier to do than that would be, and still stronger.

Changing your title. Next time try to make it so that we know what the thread is about before opening it.

I was wondering what kind of rpms that gear is going to see.

That's a structurally important part of the car. You can cut it out, but you should really do some bracing in there if you do. Having been working in that area a lot in my car recently I find it hard to imagine that you'd need the seat that far back. I think if you lowered the seat in relation to the floor you should be able to get a bit more headroom and then you can slide the seat back further than stock and sit a bit more upright. If you do that I think you'll get the legroom you need and still have a couple inches to spare before the seat hits the storage compartments.

The rail is already 1/8" thick. I wouldn't hesitate to put a jack under one.

Sure do. I think around page 2 or 3. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106974

They're designed to fit right over the existing rails. I removed the originals on my car due to TC rod changes and the fact that mine were all bent up and the BD parts would no longer fit over the originals.

I don't think they have a website. There is a picture of a car running the flares on this thread (he's running the rear flares in the front as well for more tire clearance): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23482 I'll have pictures of mine when they come in as well. I've seen race weight flares before, and you really don't want them on the street. We'll see how thin they are when they come in... EDIT--they also have box flares for 240s. They had to call me to make sure which kind I wanted.

Mine is from 2000. I think that is a fair price. There are other similar flares available from Jim Cook and from the guy who bought all of AZC's molds. Also MAS (not MSA) makes a similar flare, but it is a racing piece, very thin fiberglass. If I had known about this a couple weeks ago I would have bought them. Instead I've got the MAS ones on the way.

That would appear to be correct.

Weld the two pieces together at the seam and then they're one piece. Personally I think what you've got there is just extra weight. The floor pan will be the top of the "box", so you don't need to add another piece in there. If you wanted a top for the box that was .120 like the rest of the rail, then you really only need a top piece which is .120 across the flanges on the top of the BD rails. If you want extreme overkill then you should sell the BD rails and do a larger box tube like Pete did. But I think the BD parts are already a huge step up from stock since they connect the subframes and they're 3x as thick as stock (if not more), so the question is how far do you really need to go, and are you going to rely on your subframe connectors for ALL of the structural improvement, or are you going to beef up the rockers to, or do a cage, or a roll bar, etc.

$104.95 per pair front and rear was the old MSA price.

I think your fronts are just too powerful in comparison to the rears. If you can bleed the rears then you have plenty of fluid movement. A restricted brake hose is pretty obvious. You'll open the bleeder with pressure on the brake pedal and little or nothing will come out. You can install an adjustable prop valve, but if it is all the way open and you still don't have enough rear brake pressure, then you have a problem. You might look at the possibility of installing the larger prop valve and also installing larger wheel cylinders. I think Dan Baldwin was looking into that at one point. He might be able to direct you a bit, maybe PM him about it. The other solution is dual masters, but unless you buy something like John Coffey's bolt in dual master adapter it is not going to be a straightforward installation.

Too many stock questions for my taste, but I agree would go over well at classiczcars.com. 11/20, but I removed my stock speedo in my '70 8 years ago so I'm going to cut myself a little slack for that one.

A wise man once said "Don't ever trust Jon's math". Maybe Terry (blueovalz) or Cameron will check your math, but I won't. Bumpsteer moves in an S curve when you plot it out on a graph, and it's usually more severe at the ends of the suspension travel. How that works out for you in this case I really don't know. Maybe somebody else here has a program that can figure it out and plot the bumpsteer curve for you. You might be right, it might not make much of a difference at all, but it will make a difference.

No, no beatdown impending. We're getting into an area that always confuses me, but I think this is how it works. Follow me here: If you lengthen the control arm, you need to lengthen the tie rod and equal amount to get back to 0 toe. They are still the equal length. If you redrill the hole, you still have to lengthen the tie rod to get back to 0 toe. Now they are not equal lengths. When the suspension moves, the two won't stay parallel because they are not the same length anymore. The shorter one will move in a more severe arc than the longer one, leading to bumpsteer.

The one thing that I think you'll find is the the DOT tires will make you a lot faster, but they'll also be SCREAMING for more camber. I would still caution you against redrilling the hole because it will mess with the bumpsteer if and when you decide to worry about it later on. I'd run the DOTs as is if you have to, but you'll have to run a lot of pressure in them to prevent them rolling over onto the sidewalls. As a stop gap for the meantime I'd probably go with some camber bushings in the front (even though I really don't like them) vs redrilling the hole. Or lengthen the control arm like Dan did, which isn't too hard to do. Nobody says you have to take my advice though. Thank you sir.