JMortensen

Hmm... never thought about bending the frame in an accident. I was just taking a cue from John Coffey, who had his frame front to rear. Looks like the main reason to do this would be less material use. I think it will be more difficult to get the angle with the frame mounted sideways... have to consider that one a bit. Thanks for the warning! Might have to change it up a bit... Any ideas regarding putting nutserts in the corners of the can? Is that going to be a big no no?

1st and 2nd gear are on the same shifter rail. I'd be willing to bet that the cause is the roll pin which hold the selector to the rail fell out or snapped. My understanding is that this usually happens when you shift like you're trying to break the shifter off (totally unnecessary) or running seriously high rpms (8000+). Requires pulling the case apart to get at the rail and selector, you might safety wire the new one in so that it can't fall out or break as easily.

There have been other threads that give the pros and cons of the plastic cells. I think if you mount them correctly they should work fine. I haven't used one myself, but that was the impression I got after reading some of Tim240z's comments a while back. I did totally remove the sheet metal. Wasn't sure what all was going to happen there, so I cut it back to the frame rail lip all the way around. I think I'm going to use a bunch of nutserts all around the perimeter to screw an aluminum panel down.

It's a 12 gallon the part number is ED112, you can see it up in the corner there. It is an enduro cell. I got mine from http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.2271/itemNo.fuel+safe/qx/Product.htm and it was $430. You can get a cheapo cell from Jegs or Summit, but this one is FIA and SCCA approved.

Not even a question. There's plenty of room in this position to get at all the bolts back there.

Oops, forgot a question. 4. I can slide the cell back or forward a considerable amount. I figured this spot looked about right to allow for access to the diff bolts and that stuff. It doesn't have to be there though. I know moving weight to the rear is good for autox, not so good on the road course. Any opinions as to where I should mount it?

Installing the fuel cell I got for Christmas. Here's where I'm at right now: I had previously tried to get the thing angled 7 degrees, and was only able to get about 4 and had almost given up on the angled cell idea. Then I thought about doing it this way, and it turned out pretty easy to do. The cell is almost exactly flush with the bottom of the fenders, which makes me think there might be some fairly interesting things that could be done back there from an aero perspective. With the cell installed like this there is JUST BARELY enough room for the cap to get screwed on and not hit a flat plate that covers the hole back there. So questions are: 1. Does anybody make a premade trap door type thing that I can just bolt into a flat piece of aluminum to cover up the hole and allow access to the fuel cap to fill the cell? 2. Are most of you guys using some silicone or something to seal up the cover? I'm not ready to seal it permanently yet, but I'd like it to be reasonably tightly sealed, just wondering what people are doing. 3. I think I know the answer to this one, but I have a VERY STRONG temptation to put a nutsert right in the corners of the can. That's not allowable I would assume... the idea here would be to make a big plate that would wrap around the rear and attach to the cell and fenders and the rear panel in back. This would make a fairly gigantic diffuser...

Just regular old gear lube, no additives required. That said, something that can handle high temperatures is good. I know John Coffey used SWEPCO 201 in his Quaife. That would also be my first choice.

That's one option. I had done this to my Autopower roll bar when I had it. I sold it to Auxilary, he might be able to show you a picture if you ask him. The other is to weld a bar across the strut towers, and run your belts off of your welded in strut tower bar. A third option is to weld a loop onto the strut tower on each side and use the clip on connectors for the seat belts. John B (gramercyjam) did this on his autox car, I searched but could not find the thread. Maybe PM or better yet email him. Haven't seen him hanging around as of late.

The stock 240 bumpers install into the area between the grill and the radiator. They would be totally out of the way of just about any airdam, unless you get one with the bumper integrated into it.

Sounds like it's time to make your own bracket. There are a couple of problems with aftermarket seats in a Z in my experience. The seat mounts are too tall. Pretty much any seat which has a solid bottom is going to leave you sitting too high in a Z car with the stock mounts. This was surprising to me when I tried to install an Ultra-Shield seat. I figured since the padding at the bottom was so thin it wouldn't set me up so high, but the difference is that the solid bottom doesn't let you sag down at all. I had Recaros that had straps on the bottoms of the seats and never had a problem with height, but when I put the Ultra-Shield in it required a rework of the mounts. The front seat mount is much taller than the rear. The mounts are too high in general, but the thigh bolster is too high in relation to the butt height, basically leaning the seat back too far if it is non-reclinable, or making it really uncomfortable to sit anything like erect if the seat is reclinable. Here's how I fixed the Recaros to lower the thigh section. I had to cut the original bracket and weld it back together at an angle, and then run the rear mount as far up as I could get it: When I went to the Ultra-Shield, I had to cut the stock mounting bracket off completely and weld in a new seat frame. This happened to tie in nicely to my subframe connectors. The new mount is 1x1 square tubing, and I worked it so that the Recaro sliders connect onto it. The height of the mount where the sliders connect is ~1.5" and the sliders themselves probably add another inch, so figure the bottom of the seat is probably 2.5" off the floor. It feels a bit lower in total height than the old Recaros. Pretty close, but a little bit lower:

I LOVE the 940Z kit. I think if I were to get on of John Washington's body kits that would be it. I'm not sure I like the fake pop up headlights on this one, but it does share enough similarities that I would think it might be a 940 kit with some custom front end work on it. Overall, it still gets a thumbs up from me.

The MSA cage is an Autopower. Plenty of info on that if you search "Autopower" you'll find everything you need to know. We should let this thread die IMO...

While I appreciate the fact that you're searching DEEP into the archives, I wonder why you picked this thread to bump. It hasn't been touched in 5 years, and I haven't seen any posts from any of the guys involved in the original thread in at least 2, maybe 3 years. There are plenty of threads on roll cages here. If you want to bump one, why not pick one where the guys involved are still active members? Or start a new one and reference the issue or problem from the old one that you would like more information on.

Got my 12 gallon Fuel Safe Cell from my wife, but it showed up about a week ago, so no big surprise there. Got the wife a bunch of car stereo equipment and an iPod (had another thread about that) and she was totally STOKED about it, which was good. She asked for the iPod, and the rest was a surprise for her. I was a bit nervous about it and had that "she's going to think this is more about you" thing rolling around in the back of my head. She loved the whole package though! It's the first time I've been able to exchange gifts with her at all in some years, so that was nice!

I think barring a Kodiak or CCW or other custom race type wheel, these have got to be my favorites that I've seen. I like the 16's linked to in the thread better than the 17's, for what that is worth. Pretty sweet looking, lightweight wheels... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107672

If these numbers can be verified, we have a basically empty FAQ for this that it would be nice to put some more info in.

Search for REACTION DISK or REACTION DISC. Many threads on the subject, its a little rubber disk about the size of a nickel. If it falls out the pedal feels like there is nothing there when the car is running. Kinda sounds like your problem, huh??? I think that is probably most of the issue. The other is likely candidate is properly adjusting the pushrod length between the booster and the back of the master properly. If those two things are OK, then I'd look at the master cylinder itself.

I don't see a huge difference in strength between the 280Z and ZX transmissions. I've got to rebuild my ZX trans because the main shaft nut has backed off, so that LH thread thing doesn't assure you of never having that problem again either. The "strong" trans is the T5, and even it isn't very strong for increased power levels over the stock turbo. As for things here in Seattle, I'm just keeping busy with the car, biding my time, and waiting to get the hell out. Should be May-ish... we'll see.

Clifton is the owner of that Z and is also a member here. Why don't you PM him and direct him to this thread. I'm sure he can tell you what exactly was done...

Prox, read these before you do anything. I searched "TEP cam" for what that is worth... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98699 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=78446 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90534 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91056