JMortensen

Now THAT is freakin SWEET! I love what you did there. I noticed the same spring in the firewall the first time I tightened my strut tower bars down as well. Now I know what to do about it. Thanks.

It's not exponentially decreased. The ratio is explained here. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/Pages/techtip/pedaltech.asp What will matter is that the higher the ratio the less throw on the master for a given amount on the pedal. So I guess you have to keep in mind how long the throw on the cylinder is and how long the throw is where you plan to install the pivot.

That is AZC's setup with a line lock ebrake and a prop valve.

Nissan cranks are forged so you could probably weld it. I replaced my crank that had this issue, and I've seen others with just red loctite and they seemed to be holding FWIW.

Sounds like a fun project. Start by reading the stickies in the Chevy V8 area and the FAQs if they apply to you. Then get the JTR manual and read it. After you've done those things you should have a pretty good idea of what you're up against. We have a bunch of guys who really love that IMSA body style and there are many threads devoted to it. There is even a company working on reproducing a similar flare kit, and another member zlalomz who has a website dedicated to the IMSA Z's that originally ran those wild flares on the racetrack.

Maybe you should price out all the other bits so that you have an idea of what the whole thing is going to run. You're going to need a manifold, linkage, air cleaners, air horns, jets, probably a good idea to get at least one rebuild kit too. You can try http://www.wolfcreekracing.com, they have all kinds of Mikuni parts. For manifolds the common ones are the Mikuni, TWM and the Cannon. Of the ones I've seen the TWM looks the best. I have the Cannon and it's casting was very poor quality FWIW. I don't much care for the shorter Mikuni runners, although others here do. Maybe if you start by checking what the other costs are going to be you can figure if it will be worthwhile.

I agree with Tom. Why the hurry? Not to mention 40K is a lot of money. I'm not sure what your situation is, but if you're in the service and you just went in back in Feb you probably don't make squat. That is a serious chunk of change that could change your life rather than just getting you a shiny car that won't be worth $5K in 10 years. You could do yourself a big favor and use it to buy a house or invest it in a business or do something really important with it.

That's a different kind of prop valve. The one for the dual masters is the big red knob next to the gearshift. It doesn't attach to the brake line, it changes the bias at the master cylinder pushrod. Here's a description of how it works: http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/Pages/techtip/pedaltech.asp You can see that this guy has a prop valve plumbed into the brake line as well. You can super fine tune the brakes by using both types of valves.

A picture of the EVO VGs for comparisions sake:

The most important thing is that they all need to be the same carburetor. Obviously same size, but also same type. Mikuni made several revisions to the design of the carbs over the years. I'm not sure how to tell which are which. Measure the BACK SIDE of the carburetor near the butterflies to tell the size, not the front. Above and beyond that, they might not all have the same jets, so you'd probably have to buy new jets as well. Probably going to need new jets anyway since what runs on a 22R isn't likely to work for a Z. Linkage is pretty easy. Buy the linkage for the carbs to the manifold, and then forget the linkage to the gas pedal. Just do a cable. Lots of ways to set up a cable, and its so much nicer than trying to get all the linkage pivots from the pedal to the manifold to move smoothly.

I stand corrected. I thought from the pictures they looked about 4" tall.

Those airtabs look relatively huge compared to what Mitsubishi was using. What's more, the Z doesn't have nearly as steep a rear window as the EVO, so we probably don't need as large a VG.

My mistake. The remote adjuster isn't included, but it does hook up to the balance bar.

Cary, it looked like your brake masters were rather low in comparison to the clutch. I guess that explains why...

Mike that would be really really cool if you could get that test done. My only suggestion is that the ricer style wing needs to be SECURELY mounted. If you just bolt it to the middle of the hatch the wing can cavitate which will not only stretch the skin on the hatch but will also pretty much negate whatever downforce you would have seen from it. Ever seen a Camry or Accord with a big wing on the freeway, and the wing looks blurry? Wing is cavitating. Or if you see one that is conspicuously missing a wing, go take a look at the trunklid. Kinda looks like they locked someone inside the trunk with a ball peen hammer...

No, you generally use a smaller master cylinder than you would use with a booster and you have a better leverage ratio on the pedal, so the booster isn't needed. Mike, the dual master setups come with a balance bar setup, which is an adjustable proportioning valve in it's own right, and this is usually set up on the dash. It's a knob which adjusts the pressure from one master to the other.

Not a big fan of floor mounted pedals at all. I'm curious though as to why you had trouble with hanging pedals? Is it that they couldn't be mounted sturdily enough? Did you have a rough idea of how you would use a knee bar to brace the pedal assy? I've seen some where they attached a bracket that hooked up to the the column support, similar to the stock pedal box. I think Kipperman's car is done this way.

The leak is why I want them in the engine compartment. My friend used remotes on a reverse mount pedal assembly and had a very slow leak and it dripped brake fluid directly onto his shoes, which then made it hard to stop the car because his feet were sliding all over the place. I suppose the advantage of doing the reverse mount is that you gain space in the engine compartment, but I figure this will gain a ton of space vs the stock booster and tandem master config. The benefit of three masters is that you can use different size masters for the front and rear brakes, and the bias is actually proportional. The bias that you get with an adjustable proportioning valve is not really proportional, so if you get max rear braking at slow speeds you end up with rear brakes that don't do much at higher speeds. Likewise if you set it for max rear braking at high speeds it locks up the rear at low speeds. If you want more info on this, click here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml If its a street car you're building you probably won't care about anything more than the aesthetics issue, but there is a real difference between the dual masters and adjustable prop valves.

I'm not sure what I'm getting at either, really... The point is that bjhines seems to be making his argument largely based on the apparently false assumptions we were taught about wings in schools; the air on top and bottom have to meet at the back of the wing at the same time, and the air on top needs to speed up to get there at the same time. The air on top does speed up, but the individual bits of air don't get to the other end of the wing at the same time. The upside down thing was just an example, but the idea is that the shape of the wing doesn't create the lift, the angle of attack does. There is the upside down example to prove this point, also the balsa wood glider which produces lift despite having totally flat wings, and the stunt plane which uses wings that are the same shape top and bottom. The curved shape on top helps reduce the boundary separation layer, and the VG helps prevent that separation. At least according to what I read today. There is a good section on frost and its effect on the wings on the first link, section 3.13. Basically it says that you can have ice on the wings and still fly as long as the ice is smooth. It is the rough surface at the leading edge of the wing that causes separation which slows and separates the airflow over the top of the wing, creating drag and reducing lift especially at high angles of attack.

Heh, I was wondering when you Oregon flyboys were going to jump in... My point is that the angle of the attack is important in producing the lift, not the shape of the wing. Maybe you were just backing me up, not sure. Also, the 2nd picture on that page show how relatively small the amount of lift coming from the tail end of the wing is, which again supports the idea that the purpose of the VGs make the flaps work better.

Why don't you go with used slicks in a 15"? There are a TON of slicks in 15" size. You can get a set of diamond racing wheels and a set of used slicks for about the cost of the DOT's.

Here's something else John. I think your understanding of how a wing works (and mine, prior to some internet reading this afternoon) is fundamentally flawed. Bernoulli's Principle and the idea of the air on top of the wing going faster than the air on bottom due to the shape of the wing does not explain lift in an airplane wing. If it did, how could a plane fly upside down? The long side is on the bottom, so the air on the bottom would flow faster than the air on the top, and the plane would slam into the ground, right??? Check these out if you have the time or the interest: http://www.av8n.com/how/htm/airfoils.html http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm After reading this and a bunch of other crap I think the angle of attack of a wing is much more important than anything else as far as producing lift. So again, it could be said that the VG's on an airplane wing make the flaps more effective by reducing the boundary separation layer and providing clean air for the flaps to use, and the wing gets its lift from the following factors, as the second article states:

Don't reuse main or rod bearings. They aren't that expensive and they along with rings are the major wear items that you just don't want to use over and over. Being that they aren't hard to come by and they aren't expensive it's just crazy to reuse bearings.

The wing in the picture is stalled. Normally wings don't have airflow like that, and the flow should be relatively equal across the surface of the wing. That is an extreme example, but I used it to point out that the part with the yarn pressed against the wing has some pressure on it, and the part where the yarn isn't pressed against the wing has no pressure. I think you could get much more effective downforce if the wings extended off the side of the car like a plane, but that might make it difficult to drive though, especially at an autox... As far as reasonable modifications go, the body has the effect of putting "dirty air" from the boundary separation layer onto a low mounted wing. That's why we're discussing the VGs, because if they can clean up the airflow and reduce the boundary separation layer then we can make the wing or spoiler more effective. That's what the thread is really about, we've just gotten a bit sidetracked.

That sounds like the outer pinion bearing is bad to me. When mine was bad I got a speed sensitive whine. The faster you go, the higher pitch it gets. Welding the diff shouldn't affect the noise of the diff at all, it just makes the tires chirp when going around corners.