JMortensen

Pretty cool. Looks like they got the whole FP field there...

Veritech, the spoiler we're talking about is the one at the top of the hatch on the Supra, not the one at the bottom. I think Mike kZ has one. As far as MSA goes, I just looked online and they aren't selling whale tails either. And they stopped selling their street flares. Bummer. Wonder if it would be possible to track down who the manufacturer for MSA was.

That's an interesting read. Apparently a .006 change in the cD was enough for them to put it on a production car. But their wing is so high in the airflow that I think it didn't have as big an effect as it would on our Zs with a spoiler. I never would have thought to angle the outermost VGs to the center like they did there. That would almost have the effect of fences on the sides of the hatch (something else I had considered at one point). The other thing to consider is where to place the VGs. Do you put them at the trailing edge of the roof, or is there already flow separation there?

You don't want low pressure, but you do want airflow over the spoiler. The more the better, right? If the airflow is separating off of the hatch and tumbling that's not going to give very high pressure at the spoiler either. Don't you think that the airflow without the vortex generators would be less effective when it hits the spoiler than a relatively smoother albeit also low pressure airflow that really slams into the spoiler? That was my thought anyway.

Screw the ridicule. Do what works.

I don't think that would create the kind of vortex you want veritech. I've been thinking that the vortex generators like you alluded to before, the ones on the roof of the EVO might have an interesting effect on a Z with a whale tail or a spoiler. Would keep more air headed down the window and should get a more significant amount of downforce out of the spoiler I would think...

Yeah, when they aren't damaged you just get the retainer out and then the pin will slide out with just pressure from your fingers or maybe a light tap with a hammer.

I've got a theory: When you launch the torque transfers through the ring and pinion and into the carrier. Now the side gears want to turn the wheels, but there is a lot of resistance to movement from the tires. ANYTHING that can move before the wheels start to turn is going to move. The side gears have a little slack and will move just a bit, and load up the smaller pinion gears which puts pressure on the cross pin shaft. I think that repeated shock loading distorts the case, and this causes the slack in the gears to get worse, which causes the case distortion to get worse and worse, faster and faster. Finally it breaks the roll pin and the shaft starts to slide out and beat the crap out of the case and then it breaks in half. I have no experience, but I think that if someone took the time to WELD IN THE SHAFT ON BOTH ENDS, this problem would be for the most part eliminated. Best to pull the shaft out, grind a bevel on the ends so that the weld was stronger, then weld it to the carrier. If that is possible, and I don't see why it isn't, then I think that would make it a lot stronger. That's my theory. Care to prove me right?

From what I've read I would take a close look at the hole in the carrier. It tends to wallow out and get oblonged. If that's happened to yours, forget it. You could use another open carrier in that diff though. Maybe get someone who is installing an LSD to send you their open. You might also think about welding the cross pin in place.

There have been some posts in the past that address the issue. I can't remember which fit and which don't but I seem to remember the Rewinds, Panasports and the swastikas were all addressed at one point or another.

I was able to dig up this old thread on Google: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90112

The Power Brute IS the Nissan LSD. It remains to be seen whether it is the better or worse version, but it is made by the same company that makes them for Nissan. $450 for the Nissan LSD is a great deal regardless of which version it is, and the clutch pack issues with the crappy one can be fixed if necessary. Still waiting to hear which version the group buy is going to be getting. If you care to know the differences between the good and the not so good Nissan diffs you can read these threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107153 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112921 Although there is a lot of bickering in there between me and bjhines on the 2nd thread, we eventually were able to isolate the difference between the 300ZXT unit and the other Nissan LSD.

I don't know why they have a low rating for road courses. It is the Nissan LSD and it has been used in road racing for decades. As to rock crawling, there are 3 types of diffs that get a good score there: Detroit Lockers, selectable lockers, and spools. Reason why is that ANY LSD will slip when one tire comes off the ground, and most rock crawlers are lifting tires all the time.

OK, I've had enough. Starting with Alan's post, I'm just going to edit all the non spoiler or wing related crap. No more pedantic BS about who calls what part by what name, no more whining about who is challenging your sacred ideals. Keep it on target, or I'll keep it on target for you.

Block off the area between the airdam and the radiator support as bjhines suggested. As it is a lot of the air that could be going through the radiator is probably going through the gaping hole between the airdam and the core support. You can tape a piece of cardboard in there to test and see how it helps. Getting all the air that goes through the air dam to also go through the radiator will help a lot. This thread shows some pictures of people using aluminum to block off the huge hole: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110222 The other thing I'm thinking is that Scottie cooled his engine off by closing off the cowl and venting the hood. I think that cowl is forcing air into the engine bay and that's reducing the airflow through the radiator, and this is at least part of the problem. Here's Scottie's thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113540

Its still your call.

Yeah, you don't want to use any old ZX valves because the ones that came in the P79 and P90, which is most of the ZX's, are actually shorter than the earlier valves. You need valves from an N42 or N47. Same diameter as the ZX valves, same length as the E88 valves. Most stainless valves are N head valves.

Depends on the wheel. Some 15's do fit the 12" setups.

That's your call. Does the money matter to you? If not, go for the KAAZ. Like I said before, I've heard of people breaking the crappy single clutch Power Brutes, but I can't say that I've heard of that trouble with the good one. It's definitely going to be more prone to breakage than a KAAZ. If you're just driving around on the street you won't be stressing it like a drag racer would.

The KAAZ has more, larger clutches than the Power Brute. It is also available in 1.5 way and 2 way, where the Power Brute is only 2 way. I don't know what J Soileau will say, but the KAAZ is the better LSD by a good margin.

OK Crispy, but look where I have the braces on my car: There is a very good reason to run the braces to the frame rail where mull and I did. The sway bar mounts right there, and it tends to tear up the frame rails. So what I did to strengthen the end of the box and tie the upper and lower frame rails together was to put an X in the radiator core support. I did this with very lightweight .5 x .5 x .063 square tube. I hope that is enough to keep the frame rails from leaning over on each other. But regardless, Mull has this right as far as I'm concerned.

I don't know about "hideous" but I have heard from many an autoxer that the VLSD is prone to slippage, and that the hotter it gets the more prone it is. Not factual Larry, but there it is. According to previous threads it is possible to change the fluid in the VLSD to make it more aggressive. It seems to me that for a very high hp application the VLSD is the way to go. Plus, most guys with 5, 6, 700 hp are drag racers, and it's much easier to limit slippage in a straight line than it is in a tight turn due to weight transfer like an autoxer or road racer has to worry about.

I PM'd you. Let's keep this bickering offline and continue a discussion of the effectiveness of wings and spoilers, OK everyone?

Time out. This is the internet, you need NO QUALIFICATIONS to discuss anything whatsoever. I've seen "qualified experts" express an opinion that was dead wrong before as well. The point is not to say that you are right or that you are wrong in this case. The point is that you have no right to tell people not to post on Hybrid Z. If you can't deal with the fact that other "laypeople" might express an opinion contrary to yours, you're going to have a tough time here. Play nice or go home.

There are quite a few posts about that subject here, all you need to do is search for them. The Atlantic Z Car Club has a great tech info section which has step by step write ups on most general maintenance procedures. Atlantic Z Car Club: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=69 Whenever you start a new project, be it bushings or whatever, check there first. Here is the stub axle page: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html You might also check the spindle pin info on that site if you're doing the rear control arm bushings.