JMortensen

rztmartini--Please use descriptive titles, I'm going to change this one. Take a look at the newly revised rules too: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=61&a=2

Fixed the title.

ENCYCLOPIDIA??? You're right, it is definitely not one of those... OTM- don't answer if you don't KNOW. slownrusty- Yes it gets old seeing the same posts over and over. But in this case I agree with the others, if you don't know what to search for, how can you search? This is different than the guy who posts the "Can I make 300whp with an L28ET?" question for the 784th time. vegasnative- Hybrid Z is a forum, but we do expect people to LOOK before they post. Tough in this case, admittedly, but we will continue to uphold the rules here and there is something to be said for keeping the database lean and mean. To prevent any further confusion or erronious information from making its way in here (I already see NAPZ twice and it has nothing to do with either engine) I'm going to close the thread. Justin, search for S20 and LY and you'll find a bunch of other posts. Be careful though, because there is a LOT of bad info on these motors, so you'll see many posts then other people disagreeing and so on. HS30-H is very knowledgeable and his info can be trusted, but a lot of the others are not trustworthy. Regardless these engines are very rare so unless you have a boatload of money you probably won't get to do much other than debate their worth on the internet.

If you buy one they'll build it to fit you. With your tall skinny frame I doubt the one in the store is going to feel too good. The Ultra Shield isn't "as custom" as the Intermediate. I think the specs I gave were width at the hips and then width 1" under the armpits. You would probably get a better fit out of the Kirkey, because they measure the torso length and thigh width and a couple other things. I was a full 6' tall and 121 lbs for a couple years before I finally filled out at around 20. Just beware, if you're anything like me you might have to buy a couple seats before its all over. Now I'm 6' and close to 200 lbs...

The nice thing about the seats we're mentioning is that they are built to your measurements. If these were Sparco or Momo or some other seat where you just buy it off the shelf I would think that sitting in it first would be ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.

I have experience with the Kirkey Intermediate, but not the road race version, which is similar but has larger side bolsters and no shoulder "wings". The Intermediate I wasn't terribly fond of. I think I'd like the road race version a lot better, but I haven't sat in one yet... I like the Ultra-Shield Rally seat I bought a lot. It doesn't have side bolsters that are as large as the Kirkey which means it should be easier to get in and out of (hoping I can squeeze in and out without going to a removeable steering wheel). It's also about 1/2 to 2/3 the price depending on where you look. Here's one link to it: http://www.saferacer.com/ulshrarase.html

I know people who have been running R200s on the track for years and have never had to "rebuild" them. I don't know who you're referring to that said that you have to "rebuild" them, but that hasn't been my experience. I've heard about reshimming them, but that also hasn't been my experience. In fact my experience was that I ran the crappy version of the Nissan LSD at autox and on the track and as a daily driver for about 6 years, and when I pulled the clutches apart they had NO measureable wear. I think you need to cut back on the vitriol though. You're getting a little too angry and seem to be taking comments over an oil cooler way too personally.

fico, why don't you start by listing the ones that you found by using the search engine first? Then everyone can add to that list.

I always use Permatex Aviation on the freeze plugs. As to the cause, I think 510six nailed it on the other thread:

They moved the diff back in 9/71, or on the 72 model year if you prefer.

You must not get out of the Bay Area too much. Ever heard of the Donner Party, Alex?

Welcome to Hybrid Z. Take a look at the rules here: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=59&a=2 I realize this is your first post, so I'm going to run down the problems for you. This post has nothing to do with 6 cylinder tech info. If anything it's a Body question, could also be a chassis question. I'm going to move it to the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis section. The other thing that's wrong is your title. When someone else goes searching to find posts on roll cages or brake upgrades or whatever they're looking for in the BWSC section, they won't have any clue what "Is it worth it?" is about. So I'm going to change your title to "Is this Z too rusty to fix?" because that way they'll be able to see whether your post has anything to do with the subject they're interested in. To answer your question, I personally don't think it's worth it. There are people who have salvaged worse, but you're talking about a huge amount of time and labor and materials cost. Search for mull's thread. Mull is a guy from Northern Europe (Sweden?) and he made step by step videos that go through the process of fixing a car in worse shape than yours. The videos are great, funny to watch, and should give you a time lapsed idea of what you'd be dealing with. You probably could have found that thread yourself if you searched before you posted.

Sounds like someone needs a solvent tank. I got one from Harbor Freight a couple years ago and it was really a lifesaver, especially when I first tore into my project. Now just about everything is to a level of clean where I don't really need it in the garage anymore, but it was really handy when I started out. I ran mine with Oil Eater which is one of those citrus based cleansers (eats aluminum too if you leave it in there too long) but many people use mineral spirits or Varsol or similar. These things are a great buy from Harbor Freight at about $60 on sale. The other thing I would tell you about Oil Eater is that it ends up crystalizing in the tub so now if I actually wanted to run the pump I'd need to replace it. But when I was working on my diff I put the diff in there half submerged, came back about a week later and when I pulled it out it had stripped all the paint off the outside and the inside looked like a fresh casting. This thing had years of BURNT oil inside it, and it came out looking really good. The ULTIMATE is a real parts washer. They use hot soap and water and are essentially a gigantic dishwasher for parts. They do an amazing job and the chemicals used aren't nearly as harsh, but they're also big bucks. I could afford the $60 parts washer and $50 or $60 in chemicals to fill it. Parts washers are $2500 for a shop size one and require more expensive maintenance.

Not unless you resize it...

Don't forget taller tires as an option to raise gear ratio (I don't really think you want to lower it).

I would venture a guess to say that cutting the halo and sectioning it to fit is a no-no. I haven't seen the rulebook, but it seems like a very bad idea in general to cut and reweld any of the rollbar tubes in the middle. You might be able to pull them closer together at the ends and weld them to the main hoop just the way they are. I'm thinking a cumalong hooked around each end of the tube might do it. I know when I welded in my main hoop I had to spread it about an inch and I used a portapowr and it didn't take much effort at all to spread those suckers. If that didn't work it sounds like a call to S&W would be the next move. Apparently they bent in the wrong place or not enough on your kit.

Congrats!

Yeah, but just think about the times when you can't break that front crank bolt loose, or you need to lift something heavy... it (she/he?) would come in handy about then.

rpms at speeds requires that you know rear end gear ratios, trans ratios, and tire size. This calculator might help you out: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

There wasn't a good way to get EVERYONE in EVERY forum to see it, so that was my only option. I did violate rule number 8 in doing that, BTW.

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff