JMortensen

There's got to be a better alternative for drag racing than a Quaife. I would suggest that maybe a KAAZ clutch type would be a big improvement. Just my $.02.

I've heard of people lowering the float level and upping the fuel pressure to get rid of that problem where the fuel washes over the top of the jets and makes the engine run really rich on sharp right handers. There is a better way to get rid of that problem which involves JB welding the vents and running a vent tube out the top of the carb. Here's where I learned about it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18948 Never heard of just upping the pressure and tightening the pilot. Is that supposed to get rid of the right hand stumble or just normal acceleration stumble or what?

I've found that the Pep Boys style ALMOST fits correctly. The center hole is like .010" too small in the front. I chased a wheel balance problem for a LONG time, and even took my car to a really good tire shop and they didn't catch it. I replaced the ones that I took off which finally started cracking with some lugcentric ones from Coleman Racing, and I had to open up the center hole on the Coleman racing ones.

I think yours is actually set up like what I'm talking about. Drill out the taper in the steer knuckle, slide a bolt through, then use spacers below to correctly position a 5/8" rod end, then a nut on the bottom.

I think they still sell that cam Paul. I know this doesn't give you the specs you want, but here's the listing for the cam: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=99996-E1036&Category_Code=s30_nismo_camshaft

I've been thinking about this for the last couple years and I actually already have some parts and materials ready to go, just kind of have to figure out which way to go. 1. Drill the steer knuckle out to 5/8 (have the bit already) and then use a 5/8" bolt through the steer knuckle with spacers on bottom to adjust bumpsteer. 2. Have the hole in the steer knuckle reamed to fit 7 degree taper which Cary says is a "standard" bridge ream. If I went this way I'd have to find a local machinist with the proper ream. I've priced them out and it seems they go for $100+ dollars. Which is the better option and why? Also, I have the short steer knuckles. I'm considering going back to the standard length knuckles for better Ackerman, as my tires tend to drag a lot in slow speed corners. I had previously considered moving the rack back in addition to running the longer knuckles. Not really sure which way to go on this. I think the Ackerman will help at autox and probably on the big track too, but the more I look at moving the rack the bigger a hassle it seems to be. Advise here would be appreciated, preith and Cary, I know you guys have been down this road before... For the adjuster I have 1" hex aluminum that I'll need to drill and tap. I know that the outside is going to be 5/8-18 RH and LH threads. I have the 5/8" taps. The inside is 14 x 1.5 LH and RH I think, I'll have to double check. That's going to be TOUGH to find a tap for, and I'm sure expensive when it's found. I think it is possible to cut the threads using a lathe. Anyone know the specifics on that? Also I'm figuring it would be easier to have the hex drilled and tapped in a lathe just so that it is centered. If anyone knows of a place in Seattle that would do this kind of work I'd appreciate it. The last couple times I called around to machinists in the phone book nobody wanted to help me. They basically said "Is this going to be a run of 500 or 1000?" and I said "I'll need 4 total" and they said they weren't interested.

You should look at the aerodynamics threads and that will tell you more, but my understanding is that the flow over the roof separates from about the middle of the roof back and that this is not a high pressure area. You could put a vent in the leading edge of the roof like the late 90's Subaru rally cars and that would work. The cowl area is a high pressure area, which is why there is a fresh air vent in the cowl from the factory. Fix the problems first though, and do your vents later if you still feel they're needed.

Forgot to mention yesterday, I think you need the 240 pointer for the 240 pulley and the 280ZX pointer for the 280ZX pulley. I don't think they have the marks in the same place.

I wish DP had all of the crap they sell listed on their website. Oh well, it would probably have cost $1000 anyway, so I probably still wouldn't have bought it. It would be VERY easy to switch this into a tubular circle track style bar down the road, so that will probably happen somewhere down the line, but this is good enough for now.

I was going from memory so I may have switched top and bottom there. My Euro damper has a 5 degree ATDC mark, then a 0, then I think 4 or 5 marks. Regardless, if you can identify the thicker one, that's TDC.

DONE! Made little boxes to strengthen the mount on the control arm so that I can run a long bolt with no spacer. Then it was such a bitch to get the spacers in that I decided to tack them in place. It moves through the whole range of travel very smoothly and with no bind. On to the next project!!! Fix front crossmember slots or rod end tie rods... hmmm........

I assume you tried Nissan Comp?

When you're at idle and cruising on the freeway you're running on the pilot jet. The pilot will also continue to affect your air/fuel ratios well up into the rpm range. You're running on the main air and fuel at WOT with a little influence from the pilot. The air and fuel are apparently too rich. You can go bigger air or smaller fuel or both. The fuel doesn't seem that big, so I'd probably start with a bigger air jet. The transition is the hard thing to get right with Mikunis IME. I spent a lot of time on this, and my conclusion was that running a larger pump nozzle helped a little bit, but didn't help anymore at all and just made larger and larger plumes of black smoke when it got beyond 50. What really helped was a larger pilot. I think I started out with a 52.5 pilot and I ended up with a 65 or a 67.5. MUCH bigger. I kept going up and up and up and it kept getting better and better and better. I don't know what effect that's going to have on the mileage, but I don't much care anymore either... Also, what manifold are you running? There was a guy on classiczcars.com who said that he had a stumble and fixed it by going to a shorter manifold. That was news to me. I'm running a Cannon, which is the longest. I think this guy said he was running a TWM. If you search over there you might find it. I'm not totally convinced of the short runner argument, because my friends with 510s have the stumble and they're running Mikunis and TWMs, so ??? My understanding of the cause of the stumble is that when you snap the throttle open the velocity in the runners goes way down, and at the same time the acc pump squirts a big stream of gas in there. So there is no velocity to mix the gas, and you end up stumbling until the car kind of "catches up", then it takes off like a bat outta hell. So using a bigger pilot makes the car richer in the transition period without squirting the fuel in by fire hose, like the pump nozzle. That's why it works better. That's my theory anyway. Also, fix your timing. If you're using the 240 pulley the 0 mark is the second from the top, and it is wider and deeper than the rest of them (barely). Get an adjustable timing light and use that to dial it in. If your timing is way off you're throwing lots of power right down the drain.

Blasting and stitch welding for sure. Fixing rust too. After that if you get into subframe connectors and that great. Then paint the bottom of the car. Then do the rest of your stuff you want to do from the top. I used my rotisserie when I fixed rust in the cowl. I was able to turn the car upside down and sit on the leading edge of the roof with my feet out hanging out of the windshield hole. Then I could weld the cowl with ease from the bottom. Try that job without the rotisserie! I built my rotisserie because I was tired of spending hour after hour on my back trying to stitch weld the back end. On the rot it was easy. If you have all the parts, the welder, and the rotisserie, you could have the car blasted and take care of the rust and the stitch welding in a matter of a couple days, then coat everything and protect it. That's the way to go IMO.

You got it now. If you can figure out how to set it so that you don't have to change the dizzy drive a tooth that's even better.

All swapping the lines would do is give you a smaller reservoir on the front brakes. You want the large reservoir to go to the fronts, because they'll displace more fluid as the pads wear down. I think you need to go back to your dual masters. You could play with compounds but if it's a street car you don't want some weird mix of pads where the rears are super aggressive but need to heat up to work, because that would probably actually be worse than what you've got now.

Build the rotisserie first. Then fix rust. Then do the rest of the stuff you're talking about.

I bought the stator from Courtesy Nissan about 2 years ago and it did NOT have the magnet on it. Isk has a .500+/300+ cam on an engine with almost 12:1 compression. He isn't going back to vacuum advance. The reason to permanently lock it down has to do with vibration. Vibration does weird things, like loosening bolts, and tearing apart harmonic balancers. Everything is vibrating like crazy at 7000 rpm. If you lock down the breaker plate then it CAN'T move, which is what you're looking for on an engine that could detonate itself to death quickly like his 11:1 + compression engine if the breaker plate vibrates and advances itself. Isk, take a step back and think about what you're trying to do. You want to prevent the vacuum advance mechanism from ever having any effect on the timing whatsoever. You don't need the bearings. You don't need the little bearing retainers. Try to put it back together with the minimum number of parts that you can. So you basically want to lock the whole damn thing solidly together, and only have the breaker plate in there to locate the stator. If you get really stuck I'll pull mine apart and take some pictures for you, but if you think more about what you're trying to do rather than what pieces you should use and what you shouldn't, I think you'll do fine.

I just took all that crap off and JB welded the plate to the center pedestal part. You're not running the vacuum advance, so why bother putting all that stuff back together just to epoxy it all together?

Yeah, that's what I meant. You can probably give it a couple taps with a small hammer and bend it back far enough that it doesn't rub anymore.

I forgot to mention that the main issue when you remove all the bearings and all that is that the pedestal stay square while your epoxy is drying. It can lean over, and if it does than the distributor shaft will rub on the pedestal. So one of the main goals is to keep everything square so that nothing rubs. This all should make sense when you get it apart, if not just post again!

There is a dust cap on the end of the stub axle. It sounds like that is what is rubbing. I'd pull the axle out and see if you can't bend the cap out of the way.

You can't leave the entire vacuum advance mechanism out completely because it holds the pedestal thingy that the stator attaches to. What I did was to JB weld the support pedestal thingy to the vacuum advance plate, then JB weld the advance plate to the breaker plate, leaving out all the balls and all that. Then I took the diaphragm and cut the arm off and stuck it back in just to fill the hole. You could probably plug that hole in the distributor instead if you didn't want the diaphragm there.

That or an angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel.

Well I'd rather another buyer stepped in and split the cost, but if I have to spend $90 and sell the extra clutches myself I'm OK with that I guess. You wanted 6 I think, so that leaves 8 left, which basically means 4 for me and 4 for somebody else. If they're $12 each, that means basically someone else has to come up with $48 for their set. The only other thing that concerns me is that if the material is too hard it might shear the teeth off but I'm no metallurgist so I'll leave that part to you and anyone else who may want to comment on it.