JMortensen

Please clarify. This looks like it says you ran more neg camber on the back than the front. Hard to argue with success, but that is really backwards from what has worked on my car.

Please clarify. This looks like it says you ran more neg camber on the back than the front. Hard to argue with success, but that is really backwards from what has worked on my car.

The ZX rear calipers commonly fail at the ebrake mechanism. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82790

MSA sells a hatch repair panel: http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=30-7291&Category_Code=SBC1

SEARCH. Helium leaks out through the tire at about 10 psi per hour. For more details, find the same thread I did and read the rest yourself.

It was explained to me that this was the reason that all the intake and all the exhaust valves should be set in the head at the same height. Assuming the head is not warped then the same size lash pad is used and the same wipe pattern obtained from all the intakes or exhaust valves. That's the way it was described and that's the way it worked out on my head anyway.

At speed you don't need the fan to be efficient because there is enough flow through the radiator without it. It had better be a puller though since they're mounted behind the radiator.

NO WAY! I've run a .490/280 cam for years on a brass radiator. Dan Baldwin also runs a 3 core brass radiator on his car. The cam is not the problem. Worrying about your air/fuel mixture or your camshaft is wasted effort. There is something wrong with your cooling system. Find and fix the problem.

Well as long as we're repeating ourselves... This car is proof that a turd can only be polished up to the A pillar.

Onto the fronts. Looks like the front mount for the control arm isn't going to be double shear Cary. You can see in the photos that the angle iron is about 1/8" away from the TC rod. I actually had to grind the TC rod for clearance (I'm redoing the front part of the rod anyway, so it doesn't matter). There just isn't room in there for both pieces of angle iron. With it situated this way it would be impossible to put a nut on the end to tighten the end link. I could move the brackets further up the control arm, but then I end up with less motion ratio on the bar, and I don't want to make the bar weaker in all 3 adjustment positions if I can help it. So in the last pic I removed the tacked piece of angle that I had tried, and that appears to be the way it's going to stay. I've also already cut the end of the bar, but didn't take pics of that. So basically I just need to bend and drill the ends on the bar, and weld the other bracket on the other control arm, and then the sway bar saga will be over.

I don't mean to be a downer, but I feel like I've already made fun of this car on this board...

I'd be curious to hear the answer to the lift part of this question. What's the duration on the .495 lift cam? If it isn't close to 300 degrees, I'd keep looking.

Admittedly I could be wrong, but I think there's two things going on here. One is the ability of the splitter to keep air from going under the car, which could be improved with a skirt, the other is producing downforce which has to do with the shape of the splitter, not it's placement close to the ground.

You don't have enough motor to have a legit reason not to be able to cool off with a stock radiator. So a RD rad should definitely do the job. The 3 things that I can think of are: 1. Cheap water pump with sheet metal blades that have worn off 2. Water used wasn't distilled so theres a bunch of mineral deposits in the cooling system. 3. TonyD pointed out that the timing cover can get eroded where the impeller spins, basically making the impeller weaker as the timing cover gets worse and worse. Solutions: 1. Get a new pump. Paraut makes a good pump with a cast iron blade. 2. Someone here, I think it was Here Comes Trouble has posted about putting Jet Dry in the radiator and it will take all the corrosion off the inside. I think the procedure was put it in, drive for a couple days, drain it out. 3. Check the timing cover for erosion, replace if necessary.

Beautiful. Have you considered a skirt on the front end of the splitter to get it closer to the ground?

Either way it's kind of a hassle. If you use the ZX distributor you're pretty much signing up to fix the vacuum advance because they're always broken. If you recurve the existing one then you're looking at brazing or epoxying the slots closed and fiddling with it until you get the advance right. Recurving your distributor only really effects what happens up to the point at which the advance is all done. So you're talking about idle to 2500 or 3000 rpm. Recurving makes a big difference as far as throttle response goes, but after that rpm range it doesn't make any difference at all. I think it's worth it, and of the two options I like the ZX better. The ZX is newer so it's less likely to need bushings, and the trigger mechanism is better than the pertronix as I understand it.

Hehe... I was thinking of the Myers Manx: http://www.manxclub.com/realmanx.htm

It's a lot better than the RPV V6 engine that turd came with.

Right, nice thing about the ZX is it has less total so you can run 15-20 and get 32-37 total.

Regardless the springs shouldn't be a really different size. They might be shorter, that's almost always the case with aftermarket springs, but they shouldn't be a different diameter or anything like that. They're all basically the same diameter until you hit the 280ZX or if you start getting into coilovers.

Bump steer isn't inherent in strut suspension. It's designed in from the factory and can be tuned out (check the FAQ section). Camber change is the big one here, and big camber curves ARE inherent to Macpherson strut suspension. There is also dynamic caster change as well in the front end.

Bump steer isn't inherent in strut suspension. It's designed in from the factory and can be tuned out (check the FAQ section). Camber change is the big one here, and big camber curves ARE inherent to Macpherson strut suspension. There is also dynamic caster change as well in the front end.