JMortensen

Fabrication on the rear bar is done. I did 2 plug welds and then went all the way around the perimeter. I think that's going to be enough. Looks strong. We shall see. I did screw one thing up a bit, but I have a half assed easy fix for it. You can see in the pictures that the passenger side end links line up pretty much straight up and down, and the drivers side is not straight at all. In fact its straighter if I put it on the middle hole for the bar and leave it in the 3rd hole for the control arm. I looked at it and there were a series of steps where I kinda had to guess where things were going to go: the bar stock placement at the end of the bar, the angle iron placement on the control arms, the bends of the swaybar, the cut at the end of the swaybar. Well, they all added up to create this dilemma. The good news is that I have enough room to put another hole in the end of the bar on that side, and the end link doesn't hit anything, so I will drill that extra hole and end up with 7 adjustments. After all, it doesn't matter if one side of the bar is in a different hole than the other, because the effect of the swaybar is controlled by both ends, not one or the other. So it will be, uh, unique! That's it! Unique!!! Now I just need to do the front bar. That end should be easier (famous last words) because there shouldn't be so much of an issue with the end link length.

There are also many racing dual master cylinder setups out there that do not use a booster. They generally have a better leverage ratio than the boosted ones do, so you don't have to push on the brake pedal so hard. Do a search or better yet hit a circle track parts website like http://www.behrents.com or http://www.pitstopusa.com and look there and you'll find a whole bunch of them. Tilton is probably the most popular, then Wilwood.

I own handguns and won't give them up, so MD is out for me. Still tentatively looking in the NC area, but increasingly thinking we'll stay out west.

L series engines have forged crank and rods. Get yourself a copy of the How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine book and maybe the How to Rebuild book as well. Both have a ton of info. These L series engines are pretty indestructable. I wouldn't bother tearing into it too far unless you suspect something is wrong. Maybe rotate the crank and make sure the bores aren't all rusty or scored or something, and if that checks out I'd slap it in and see what it does. Lots of guys here are pulling 300-400 hp on junkyard turbo motors. Is the turbo legal in SM2? Check the FAQs, check the Stickies at the top of each section here. Lots of good info about the L series, and good turbo L series info in the Turbo section rather than the L series section here: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=70 Also tons of good suspension info here on Hybrid Z. I've learned more from this site than all the other Z sites combined with regards to Z suspension. Pretty much anything you could want to know about has been talked about previously, so use the search function before posting, and be prepared to dig through the archives, because there really is a ton of info to be had here.

I've got mine installed in the thermostat housing. Putting it in the heater hose would only give you a correct reading if the heater was on. If the heater valve is closed then there isn't any flow going past the sensor. I don't remember if the upper or lower hose is the return hose, but if you have the sensor in the return hose then you're measuring the temperature after the heater core has taken some heat out of the system too.

The idea is that the air piles up on top of the lip and yes, that gives you downforce. How low it is to the ground, how far it sticks out, the angle of the splitter, and the shape of the airdam behind it all play into how much downforce you get. John Coffey posted an article about how splitters work maybe a year ago and it had really clear info. I searched quickly and couldn't find it. Maybe if he sees this and remembers he can post it up again. Austin, that thing looks really nice! I have to admit though, that the thing I don't understand is where the splitter needs to end. I've seen some WC cars with adjustable splitters, but I don't know where the splitter ends and what kind of belly pan is on there. It seems like they'd have to be 2 separate pieces in order to adjust, or maybe have a hinge somewhere in there. I'd be really curious to find that out.

Probably Royal Purple, but could also be SWEPCO/ATF mix. My understanding is that this is what BMW uses in their transmissions. The SWEPCO will spider web off of your finger if you dip your finger in it and pull it out really quickly. Porsche guys love SWEPCO which is why I started using it. As to the effect I think it will eat some power, but that stickiness draws the lube all the way around all the gears. It can be overdone. Someone linked to one of the popular Amsoil sites, I think it was the Bob is the Oil Guy site and he was showing some testing with different oils and some had too much stickiness but the Amsoil had just enough to lubricate everything. It's not the viscosity either. I can't remember the name for it, but you can buy SWEPCO in an 80-90 and it isn't that thick, just sticky.

Now that's what I'm talkin about!!! Nice Z-Gad!

Success! I've got one side roughly tacked in place, and can articulate the suspension without any bind or weirdness. I think after doing this I realize why you can't find an aftermarket adjustable rear bar for a Z. The damn end links are too short. You can see that at full droop on the stiffest setting the end of the bar actually sticks through the hole in the control arm. The pics at full bump came out so so, the idea was to show that there was daylight between the control arm and the swaybar, which there was about 1/2" in every case. Also the end is tacked on pretty much in line with the bar, but due to the weird angle it looks like it isn't. So, Cary, Terry, anyone else who has welded an end on a swaybar, I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the end of the bar and plug welding as Cary suggested previously, then just welding all the way around the oval shaped end of the bar. My other option would be to bend the back of the end to follow the shape of the bar, and then I might be able to grind a flat on the side of the bar a little further back. Seems like a lot of work and I'm hoping that you guys will tell me that the plug and welding around the perimeter of the bar will be sufficient. Pics:

http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=417636

The one thing I'll say is that it looks like the hoop is about 4 or 5 inches farther forward than it needs to be. I'd be curious to see if when you're seat if your head is all the way in front of the hoop. You had better pad it up good if there is any chance of your head coming in contact with the hoop.

Isn't that the Honda that had roller main bearings and chain drive?

Anyone watch Mythbusters last night? They tested the magnets, a 300 mpg carburetor, and an electrolysis thing that produced hydrogen which was supposed to run the car. None worked of course, but it was pretty entertaining when they took a tank of compressed hydrogen and got one of the cars to run on it just by blowing a little hydrogen directly into the carb. Thought that was pretty cool!

I'd seriously doubt that it makes a noticeable difference. As 2126 said you can use heat sheilds, coat the header, wrap the header, cold air box, etc, and all that would do a lot more than polishing the carbs.

Found the answer. http://www.mcmaster.com part no 8419K13 is a 2" long female turnbuckle. Just ordered it up along with 4 LH male rod ends.

All right! Making progress but hitting more snags. Got the rear bar to move nicely without binding. Had to bend the bar a tad, which was easier than I thought it would be. Anyway the issue I have now is that everything works, but the center to center on the end link is 3.5", which means that I have literally 2 threads hanging on when the male and female rod ends are screwed together. So I guess I need a new way to do this. I can't really think of anything except maybe welding a nut to the end of the female rod end to lengthen it. Kinda hokey, but I think it might be my best option. The end link is too small for a turnbuckle to be easy to use, not to mention I don't have the LH rod ends or a LH 3/8-24 tap to make one with, and I can only guess that that little tap probably runs $50. Anyone have a good alternative?

If you happen to be using Nissan rims that require that oddball shank size on the nut, get some Toyota 4x4 lug nuts. Same shank size and 12x1.5.

I like to put very fine metal shavings in my gas so that I get the maximum magnetic cyclonification effect.

If you're going to bother switching out the cam, why not get something bigger? I know I wouldn't bother to switch from stock to Stage 1. It's not worth the hassle IMO.

Check out regrinds from Delta, American, Webcams, etc. I've used American before. Lots of guys swear by Delta. I think Drax240z had a line on something with just about those specs. He was using it on a customer's autox car. Might PM him.

It spreads the side loads between the two bearings. You definitely do not want to leave it out.

I was thinking that I'd like to make these end links as long as possible to minimize the change to the angles that the rod ends run at. I scrounged around for a while trying to find something other than the 1x1 angle iron that I have. Finally found some 1.5 x 2 angle iron, and did this: Man I'm a retard sometimes! I was sitting here thinking, how am I going to keep the rod end from hitting that tall piece of angle iron. The solution, weld the 1x1 to the top of the control arm. So that's the plan. I'm going to put a brace in down towards the end of the control arm just to prevent the welding of the angle from warping the arm, then I'm going to weld 1x1 to the bottoms of the control arms to attach the end links to. There should be plenty of room in that giant hole that the links go through to keep them from hitting anything.

No the Autopower connects to the fenderwell. SEARCH and you'll see some pics of the rollbar. What you're showing there is a drag racing style cage. A road racing cage will connect to suspension and chassis points, like the strut towers and rockers.