JMortensen

I was at a hands on gun show in CA probably around 1990 and the Glock was still pretty new at the time. They had a demo that went all day, and they put 10,000 rounds through a Glock a matter of maybe 5 or 6 hours. They had several shooters and had preloaded clips, and they would basically slap in a clip, point it at the dirt mound backstop, and pull the trigger as fast as they could. When one guy would get tired they'd hand it off to another and keep going. Then at the very end of the day they shot a decent group with it. I was pretty impressed with it. Gotta wonder which gun actually got hotter, although I suspect the full auto.

Back in the day the CP guys would open up their carbs, basically port inside of the carbs out. There was a post either here or on classiczcars a while back where a guy had some. I didn't believe him at first, but he really did have a set. I can't remember how big his were ported out, but I think it was over 50mm. IIRC the outside of a 44 Mikuni is 48mm. So yeah it can help flow which is why it was done in the first place, but I don't think its going to help intake temps. If you're worried about temps add a cold air box. I did know a guy who instead of buying bigger venturis would polish the ones he had with jeweler's rouge. He claimed that this would improve the flow. Then if that wasn't enough then he go get the next larger size venturi. Again, a flow thing not an intake temp thing.

Do a search. There was a VERY successful 4bbl draw through turbo setup (like 500+ hp). I'd suggest you go that way and forget the blow through. Search for "Bob H" and "Bob Hanvey". He bought a car with that setup that had huge IMSA flares. I think he was going to swap out the motor for an RB though.

Call GC back and ask for a bushing. I did and they sent me two bushings with 5/8" OD and 14mm ID and a shoulder on top. It's a very thin wall bushing. I think they charged me $8 + shipping or something like that.

Even with the rod ends all the way threaded out the end link is still too short. But you're right Cary, when I was checking it was moving just peachy with just one finger lifting, then all of a sudden stopped. Looked around and could easily see what was causing the problem. Even with the sliders not working out, I am still pretty excited about this mod. It's going to be so much better than poly bushings with no adjustments, not to mention the horrible binding on the old MSA rear bar that I was using. Did think a bit about other alternatives like mounting the bar to a frame for the fuel cell and then running the arms forward to end links attached to the struts. Or doing a really heavy tubular bar that ends just outside the uprights, with arms that attach in the middle of the control arm. Wouldn't get as much motion there, but you could make up for it with a heavier bar... Ah, next time. For the moment I think I'll be happy with the bar stock with the 3 holes drilled in it.

Functions the same as a gas shielded mig, but doesn't have the bottle attached. Welds will spatter more, and I cut through some of my buddy's flux core welds and you could see pitting right through the weld. He welded on his leaf spring perches for his Toy 4x4 and they've held up to some pretty intense rock crawling, but they did have some pitting right through the whole weld.

This didn't work. It binds after about 3" of travel. Plan B it is, unless someone has another idea to try.

There isn't enough room for that unfortunately. By putting the clevis on the side it centers the end in the control arm a little better, so I'm hoping this will work out. I just welded the thing together to check the articulation of the end links and make sure they don't bind. If that checks out then I'll cut the original end off and clean it up a bit.

Actually that would allow me to rotate the sleeve 90 degrees too. The other problem I have with the current sleeve is that if the clamps face down they look like they'll hit the control arm at full bump and if they face up they're likely to hit the CV joint. I was a dumbass and should have put them on the side to begin with. Ooh, I could weld 3 pieces to the side, that way I could use a rear mount or a forward mount in addition to sliding the sleeve for more adjustability. Back to the garage!!! Thanks Drax.

I'm not sure I understand. I suppose I could put a clevis on the SIDE of the sleeve and run the rod end twisted 90 degrees. Is that what you mean? Because that might just work...

Well, I think this was a wasted effort. The sleeve when cut down all the way to the first pinch clamp ended up being slightly longer than the stock bar. If I cut another inch off the bar it would end up being 3" long and might not have enough material for the sleeve to slide onto, and the sleeve already bottoms on the bar as it is. So right now i can soften the bar about 1.5" or so from stock, but can't stiffen it at all. Thinking about doing the bar stock thing with the back too and at least that way I'd be able to go 1" stiffer, stock, or 1" softer.

The cage is the same roll bar with a forward hoop to the floor. I can't recall if the forward part allows room for the dash or not. Saw one in an ITS 280Z some years back, it was the bolt in version. The weld in version might be different, don't know. I'm still not totally convinced about these criticisms of the bar. I mean if you look at Hiten Patel's story, the bar worked pretty good for him! I sold mine to Auxilary because I wanted something lighter that connected to more solid chassis points and that strengthened the rear strut towers directly, but I'm not sold on the idea that the Autopower would be of no use in a rollover.

I was kinda hoping...

Don't have to go OS Giken to get a double or triple plate clutch. Quartermaster does them as does 10000rpm I believe. I think I read that the Quartermaster could be had with a flexplate that fits the stock starter location, so no hassles in that regard. I know John Coffey has mentioned it before maybe a couple months ago. EDIT--check the first page of this very thread and v80z has some comments about Quartermaster and 10000 rpm clutches. I might have been remembering that post.

Made these today for the rear. I am going to need to cut some off the end, so I didn't want to get the rearmost clamp too close to the end. They're kind of ugly, but they should work OK... I also cut the raised section out of the control arm. I'm halfway thinking about putting the angle iron on the bottom of the arm that is shown, then putting 2x2x1/8" angle iron on the other side so that the depth would be even on both sides. This would allow the end links to be longer...

Vacuum wha...???

If you remove them successfully, then you can reuse them.

240Z is 2350 lbs roughly, and from our "Complete Engine Weights Table" thread: L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd 523lbs. So you're looking at roughly 1800 lbs without the engine and trans, which is 830 kilos if I did my math correctly.

I got 3 out of 4 with the puller. the first one is still in it's strut. Maybe someday I'll need it bad enough to find a machinist to pull it out. All of the shops in this area knew what the Z spindle pin was and said no, if you can believe that...

Had an interesting thought today. The swaybars dont cross over the control arms in a straight front to back way. They come in at an angle, which makes it a little harder to do the swaybar attachment points in the rear. So I'm looking at my control arm... ...and I'm thinking why don't I just cut the entire recessed area out? Then it would be possible to lay my angle iron strips at the correct angle, drill as appropriate and weld it on. I could even go all the way to the rail on the either side and maybe strengthen the arm itself. Think I'm going to give this a shot.

That's surprisingly cheap! It would have given you about a 10% increase in displacement and power.

Did more on the back end today. Problems there too. The issue is that by spacing the bar 1.5" back the end link now looks like it will interfere with the CV shaft. I don't exactly want to make the bar super long as that would soften it maybe too much. Not sure what to do yet, but I think the answer is going to involve cutting the rod ends down so that I can make the end link super short. Not the best answer, but it might be the only answer, and even the poly end link that came with the bar is shorter than the male and female rod ends just screwed together.

Rotating things around and threading the rod end all the way in really made a difference! First I tried rotating the mounts towards the back. This was a mistake, and I probably should have figured that out really quickly, but it took me a while... When the suspension compressed the mounts wanted to hit the frame rail, and the bar stuck all the way out on the other end of the control arm. Then I figured out that I'd be better off rotating it to the front. I basically put the suspension at full droop and then set the mount on the frame rail, knowing that as the suspension moved it would come off the rail. This seems to work OK, although I'd probably leave 1/8" between the mount and the frame when I finally install this permanently. The angle between the bar and the tie rod is now much better and arm doesn't require nearly as much clearance to keep from hitting the tie rod as the suspension goes through the travel. Starting with about 1.5" clearance I had probably 3/4" at full bump. Some pics: Mount touches frame at full droop. See the clearance between bar and tie rod? Rotation of the mount at full bump. So now I'm ready to cut the end off of the bar I think, but I'm still a bit concerned about how and where to cut it. The end of the bar is going to need to bend out to line up with the existing hole for the end link. I'm thinking I can do this one of two ways. The first way is to basically make an angle in my 1/4" bar stock and weld it on. The second uses no bend in the bar stock, but connects to a part of the sway bar that isn't as thick. Crappy drawing: I'm thinking of going with the first method, since I could attach to the main section of the bar, and I think this is pretty much how Terry's rear bar is done.

Thanks Pete, that makes sense. Shows how little I know about EFI...

Can someone explain to me the importance of measuring vacuum at idle? I've seen posts on the subject and the idea of why you'd do it for any reason other than to make sure the vacuum booster would work eludes me. BTW Cruez, sounds good to me!